International 30 - looking for new revised pinion gear

[JGB]

In desperation you might try the following:
Probably cost around $10-15 to try this. Give Dawn  the dimensions of the puck and she should be able to find the best sized TLD type washer that can be cut down.
Rough up the hockey puck  and glue it to the pressure plate. Turn down the pressure plate/ puck to allow for a carbontex washer to be glued in place. Glue the carbon disk to the puck.  Before gluing the puck in place mark a carbontex drag so it can be cut to size ( scissors on the outside and knife or paper punch on the inside). The issues will be if the glue used will be affected by the drag heat.

Let us know if this works out,
Jim N

[dave56]

Seriously..?

Well after having paid several hundred bucks for them, it would be worth it for me rather than to scrap them.

[Robert Janssen]

No, i meant seriously? in reference to something else. Never mind; just blurted a thought aloud.

Listen, this cannot be the most complicated thing in the world. It is a donut. A flat donut, at that.

Two CFs bonded to something inbetween to an approximate thickness (the 3.2 mm mentioned are likely in reality a nominal 3.175 mm, which happens to be 1/8" which often happens to be the sheet thickness of common friction materials, like Penn used originally.) is not too difficult to achieve.

An exact thickness is likely not necessary. An even 3.0 mm is close enough. Someone mentioned earlier, having 1.4 mm CF sheets. Well there you go- two of those back-to-back = 2.8 mm; pretty close already. If is a matter of keeping the spool centered, poke a 0.4 mm shim in there, and bingo- you're done.

So the question has been raised, what to use to bond it to. Well, almost anything that is flat and bondable, and capable of withstanding a couple of hundred degrees celsius. And preferably somewhat flexible, cheap, easily worked and easily available.

Some suggestions:

Hockey puck: no
Fake marble countertop: no
Sheet of hi-temp / hi-pressure gasket material: yes
Metal: semi-yes (not as easily worked)
Polycarbonate: some, yes
Nitrile rubber: no
Cork / rubber gasket sheet: naw
Hi-temp fiberglass sheet: yes
Aramid paper: yes
Original friction material: yes
Masonite: no

And fwiw there isn't really anything to stop you from bonding it to one or the other side of the existant metal washers.

.

[dave56]

Thanks Robert, guess if i try this, gonna use hi temp. gasket material. What are a couple of bonding agents you could suggest?

[JGB]

Dave,

The reason for bonding to the pressure plate (not the spool side) is to allow for free spool without a hockey puck clanking around and to make it similar to the current PENN design. Using the old puck is simply to give you a drag mounting that is close in size.

You may be lucky enough where the system will operate without turning down the puck thickness ( test this by free floating the puck and the carbon disk and see if the drag will free spool properly).

As far a heat is concerned the majority of the heat will conduct to the spool side pressure plate. The carbon fiber will transmit very little heat to the puck.  Carbon fiber makes a great heat shield. On an old disk try torching it and see the fibers glow red hot while the other side remains smoke free.
Epoxy has worked on Avet drag (clamp it firmly while it cures to keep everything flat) and it keeps water out.

Jim N.

[Robert Janssen]

Oh! Now i get it- hockey puck = old donut drag washer.
I seriously thought you meant a real hockey puck, as in a 3" x 1" hunk of vulcanized rubber. Good for a lot of things, but kind of an odd way to go for a reel drag. Duh. Sorry.

Anyway, yes- as said, just bond new cf to the old donut drag washer.

.