Jigmaster 500 - spool binding (Solved)

Started by Rud, November 18, 2013, 11:17:46 PM

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saltydog

I had a similar issue with a jigmaster and it turned out it had been dropped and ever so slightly the frame was out of alignment.
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Rud

yeah - I think something like that happened to mine. But I've almost got it solved. Check out the video - I decided to tune the reel alignment with the old spool (since the new one just isn't right). I barely loosened all the screws in the R. side ring put the assembly together. Then I adjusted the left side bushing so there was very little side to side play on the spool. Then I slowly started a tightening process on the left side screws. By trial and error I was able to get the working.



The only thing I have to figure out is the clicking I get when the spool is level (you can hear it in the video on the third and final spin). It's not bad but since I'm almost there - may as well get it right.

Thanks everyone - I'll mark this on "solved".


Pat

harryk3616

if you have a metal spool or can get hold of one that might also solve your problem as the plastic spools are very thick on the ends where they go into the chrome rings, iv'e had it where certain spools work better in some reels than others.   harryk

Shark Hunter

Glad you finally got it Rud! ;) I'm with Harry on the metal spool. I don't have a jigmaster, but I'm sure somebody here has a spool.
Life is Good!

Legal Bill

Hello Rud.  Thanks for starting this thread.  I had the same problem with my Jigmaster and got advice exactly the same as the solution you are pursuing.  I was told to make sure the reel was squared up.  I took the advice to heart and used all my skills to make sure the two end plates were parallel.  This included a vice, level, t-square, order of tightening all the screws, etc.  After several tries, it became apparent the problem was elsewhere.  Think of it this way; if you can slip a piece of paper between the edge of the spool and the chrome ring all the way around, how can it be a problem with alignment?  I was sure I needed a new bushing, but then read your comment here that you installed a new bushing with no improvement.  So that seemed to be a waste of time and money.

I read the advice of Alan and Irish Jigger last night about inserting a shim or a piece of lead shot inside the bushing as well as your observations about the thickness of the material needed to distance the spool from the inside of the drag side plate and gave it all some thought.  This morning I wandered around in my basement until I found an old carburetor gasket.  I removed the drag side bushing from the Jigmaster and pressed the open end of the bushing against the gasket material.  it made a nice circular impression.  With a pair of scissors I cut out the small circle by first cutting out a square piece with the circle just inside and then nipping away at the corners until I had a circle that just fit inside the opening of the bushing.  I used a toothpick to tamp my little circle into the bushing and added a drop of oil.  I then screwed it back into the endplate and voila!  The Jigmaster spins smooth at any angle.

I guess what I don't know is this: what is worn that requires this addition?  I really thought it was the bushing, but you installed a new one with no improvement.  Still a bit of a mystery.

Alto Mare

Bushings are priced very reasonable, I still say new bushings is the way to go, the tip and the inside do wear. I've been there many times before, back off the left side bushing and make sure the right side bushing is nice and tight, that should remove the clicking, well most of the times it does.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

melkapule

My used 114h would bind when tilted to the right towards the handle. Turns out the bearing cap or frame had become worn allowing the spool to move an extra 2 mils to the right. I used a short piece of mono between the frame and cap to move the cap and bearing to the left. Works fine now.

Alto Mare

Yes, you could do all of the above and it should do just fine, personally, I like to replace the bushings.
I've mentioned to make sure the right side bushing is tight, because all it takes is a hair more of the tightening to make it work.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Rud

Quote from: Alto Mare on November 29, 2013, 05:13:25 PM
Yes, you could do all of the above and it should do just fine, personally, I like to replace the bushings.
I've mentioned to make sure the right side bushing is tight, because all it takes is a hair more of the tightening to make it work.
It makes the most sense to start with a new bushing (and make sure it's tight) since they are cheap - at least that potential problem is eliminated.

Legal Bill - glad to see the gasket spacer worked.
I guess what I don't know is this: what is worn that requires this addition?.
The way I look at it is this (and I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than I will correct me if I'm wrong):
    The spool shaft is steel - the bushing is brass (softer metal). The end of the shaft will wear into the brass over time. Plus, any microscopic burr on the end of the shaft will catch/dig in to the brass bushing slowing rotation. So, for longevity of the shim fix, you should theoretically use a shim made from metal but softer than the shaft (so the shaft end doesn't wear). I believe that's the reason Alan suggested aluminum can. I do like the idea of using a piece of mono; very quick and easy and should not create much resistance to the shaft end.

One thing I did was polish the end of the shaft with some 2000 grit and then 4000 grit sand paper to ensure there were no burrs.

The biggest improvement came with the addition of a metal spool as others (Harry) suggested. Here's a clip.
Pat

Shark Hunter

Life is Good!

Legal Bill

Thanks for the comments, guys.  I will order up a new bushing and see it solves my problem.  I recognize the bit of gasket material will not be a long term solution.

Rud, you got some nice spin going on there.  I counted almost 10 seconds of spin time.  My gasket spacer is only good for six or seven.

Alto Mare

#26
Bill, remove the spool and chuck it up on a dremel, use some 2000 grid sandpaper and let the spool shaft spin on the sandpaper, being careful not to apply too much pressure. You will actually see it work, it will get shiny. Finish with some fine stainless steel wool and do the same to the other side.
Install the spool and watch that baby spin.  Irish Jigger's suggestion makes sense, but most times knocks the spool off center. A piece of aluminum is also a good option, but, if not cut perfect it will create friction by moving around. The gasket would also create friction.
On some of my spools I like to round off the tip of the shaft a little more on both sides.


The spool on the left is new out of the box from Penn, the right is the one I've rounded the tip.
You will definitely gain more spinning, but not a lot more, these will only give you so much.
Sorry, I need to resize the pictures.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Legal Bill

Update.  Installed the new bushing and that solved the problem.  I am amazed how long the spool spins now.  Thanks guys.