Banax Kaigen 1000 repair

Started by Rothmar2, November 28, 2013, 08:39:56 AM

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Shark Hunter

Definitely an "A" for Effort.
I totally agree with John. Sometimes it just doesn't all come together as we would like.
Unforeseen problems complicate the easiest task sometimes.
I tried building a reel this weekend that I have done many times before. It just didn't work out.
You have to just keep trying until you get it right.
The Gremlins were full force. Persistence will prevail. ;)
Life is Good!

Alto Mare

Chris, I'm not going to tell you not to give up, I already know you couldn't if you try.
This isn't an easy project, you have three holes, not two, if one is a hair off you would get what you're experiencing.
I'm with Doc, a little fine tuning and it should work like a charm.
This isn't assembling parts on a reel, this is creating parts.
As I've mentioned earlier, keep it going buddy.
I've been enjoying lots of things around here, yours, I enjoy the best.
Thanks for sharing your work with us.
Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Rothmar2

Thanks for the words of encouragent guys, you might've actually inspired me to keep going.
Robert, it's the top hole that is causing the problem. I have honed the middle hole larger somewhat, it wasn't quite aligned properly, and I couldn't get the lower guide bar to slide into the frame recess without forcing it.
But now, the guide tilts a little as it moves, and I have to push the top of the guide to release the binding. This push is opposite to the force that would be present when the guide is trying to spool the line under tension. Hence me having concerns this would not work in a fishing situation.
I figured I've put 12-15hrs into this part, I guess another 3-4 won't hurt.
But have some other reels I need to service first before I return to this.
Will update again if I have any luck.

agjoe5

Hi just want to share what im doing with this kaigen recently.After my took this reel for fishing and big fish around 16kg and give a fight for 10 to 15 minute mechine start to feer hot so my friend put water to cool down the mechine pull up the fish and set another bait it hook another fish this time around 2kg but the mechine when wrong it feel hard to wind back like the drum stuck.so when i get back the reel and tear apart look like nothing broken.Anyone had this problem before what cause the reel stuck.

Thank


Enjoy your fishing time

agjoe5

Some more
Enjoy your fishing time

agjoe5

More
Enjoy your fishing time

Rothmar2

Hi agjoe5,

Check out the worm shaft for the level wind, and make sure there is no scoring marks on the shaft. It's possible that during the fight with the heavy fish the levelwind guide may have been over stressed and cracked. The worm chaser can then rub up over the shaft, and thus make the reel feel heavier to wind.
From your other pictures, there does not appear to be anything wrong.
If you could get a picture of the level wind worm, and guide can help you further. See my post on the 12/10/15 and check the pictures against your parts.

agjoe5

Hi thank for your advice rothmar sure i will look back the levelwind.
Enjoy your fishing time

Rothmar2

#38
Thought I would re-visit this thread with a bit of a victory post.
I had previously attempted to make a SS level wind for this reel as I felt the plastic ones weren't strong enough. The problem I encountered first time around was the stainless' propensity to gall on itself.
 So I made another guide with delrin inserts, to reduce the sliding friction.



The inserts are all 1mm thick all around. So for the guide rods, which are 4mm, the sleeve insert is 6mm OD, 4mm ID. The main worm cover is 9mm, so the insert is 11mm OD, 9mm ID. The OD's were drilled into the SS blank, I clamped one of the original plastic guides to the SS blank (milled from an M24 bolt on the large, using a 4 jaw chuck), to get the holes aligned.
 I trimmed as much of the blank down with a thin cut-off wheel on an angle grinder, then filed it down to final shape.
The inserts were made on my mini lathe at home. They did require a bit of honing by wrapping 600grit wet/dry paper around a 2mm drill bit, and used a cordless drill to spin the paper to hone, with a bit of oil for lubricant. I just did by hand until everything slid through inserts nicely, with minimal slop.
 I also made a spacer for the chaser pawl. It's bang on 3mm now, but it was carefully trimmed from 3.5mm, the idea was to trim minute amounts off and test fit the cap with the spacer and pawl until there was just the slightest clearance of the pawl at the root of the worm, with the cap fully tightened.
 You can see, the root of the worm is nearly clean of lube due to the tiny clearance



A little bit of Cals was worked into the inserts before final assembly, and it all slips nicely with no resistance. Only used the upper guide bar out of 2, I was unable to get the other to work without undue resistance, and was worried it would place too much stress on the plastic drive gear for the worm.



So very happy to have got a result after a fair bit of effort. The owner won't have to worry about a broken guide ever again!

johndtuttle


STRIPER LOU

#40
Nice work Chris! I thought I was a patient man? I could definitely take some lessons from you.

It is difficult to get perfect alignment on 3 holes unless they are done in a good vertical mill or jig bore.

Possibly eliminating only one rod at a time will tell you which hole might be the culprit and then you can make an adjustment from there.

Never give up the ship. There's always a way to fix something and make it better!

Best regards,  ..  Lou

Rothmar2

Hi Lou, I did try a few few times with the upper and lower posts individually and collectively. I managed to get a very nice fit with the honed delrin, there virtually no slack, so the guide does not tilt as it travels. I figured this should be OK, seeing as the rest of the guide is now stainless, should have no "creep" issues. If the delrin wears over time, it won't take much to replace them. I must add, the delrin sleeves were bonded with Loctite 406, after the surfaces were etched up a bit with some 180 grit paper. I probably could hone the lower guide hole and make it work, but at this point, I feel it isn't necessary. I guess time will tell. I'll post any further developments as they happen.

alantani

thanks a million for posting all of this.  i just changed out the drag washers for a kaigen 250.  it was amazingly easy!!!!!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Rothmar2

#43
I recently got the Kaigen I made the stainless level-wind piece for, back on my bench with a stripped drag star. Note, brass stars with fine pitch threads on a stainless gear sleeve are always going to be vulnerable to being stripped if overtightened or cross threaded.
Now here comes the sad part of this post, with yet another example of how the tackle industry works in Australia.
So I look online to find out who the Banax distributor is in Australia (won't mention it here, but easy enough to look up). I Email the distributor with the reel model (Kaigen 1000) and the part no and description of the part and can he supply a replacement.
The first reply I get a few hours later is "Where did you purchase the reel?".
I reply that it is not my reel and that I service and repair reels for people, but the reel was purchased from a local Tasmanian tackle store about 6 years ago.
"I need to see a picture of the reel". As I was away from home, I googled a picture of a Kaigen 1000, took a screen shot from my phone and forwarded it to him and said this is what the reel looks like.
"Why have you sent me an online picture of the reel? I need to see the reel in question".
It's at this point I realised that this was not going to go well (like so many other times when dealing with tackle distributors in Australia). I reply that I am currently on the road and that I will send him a pic of the actual reel when I get home. Remember here, all I am after is just the drag star, something that takes 5 mins to change. But I decide, I'll play this game to see what trail of sewerage I'll get fed. Needless to say it didn't disappoint!
I get home and take pics of the reel in question, and the stripped drag star and forward to him.
"No I cannot supply the part for that reel, that's not a reel I supply as it's not made to my specs (!) and besides it looks like it's been mistreated" (because there were a few scratches on the left end plastic cover and the Banax Logo and model number was a bit faded).
So I asked why he cannot or will-not sell me the required part, is he, or is he not the registered Banax distributor in Australia? (it's on his website). I said the reel has no other faults other than this stripped star, would only take 5mins to replace, and I don't see what the reel's outward appearance has to do with this part request. I said that this reel gets used frequently hence why it had a bit of boat rash.
"I don't want to supply a part that is incorrect or damages this reel as I'm worried this may leave me liable for a for a warranty replacement" (!)
I said back to this, that as the reel was 6 years old, it is well beyond any warranty period, nor would we even think about pursuing any warranty action, for the sake of what shouldn't be any more than a $30 part, and 5mins of time, we can continue to use this reel. I also sent a couple of pictures of the star with verniers showing dimensions, and challenged him to measure his "own spec" Banax Kaigens and see if there were any major differences in dimensions of the drag star.
Needless to say I got no further reply via Email on this particular day.
The following day, I decided to ring said distributor directly and ask if he bothered to look at the pics and compare. Of course he hadn't, and then went on this big spiel about how he doesn't make any money out of these reels, that he is under no obligation to supply spare parts, and that Banax would back him up on this (!). He then went on about "parrallel imports" that the Tasmanian tackle store that the reel was purchased from, may have done, and how if that was so, why he said the Tassie Store's reels would be of "different spec" to his Banax Kaigen reels (what a load of BS!). He then went on to say, he has had problems with warranty claims on these reels in the past, and that the "Tackle industry ombudsman" had intervened, (Australia does not have a "Fishing tackle ombudsman"). He then said he would be happy to sell me one of "his spec" reels that he would provide after sales service on, but otherwise I'd have to go back to the tackle-store the reel was purchased from and deal with them. I'll add that said store has a bad reputation for putting 100%+ mark-up on parts they get in for you.
It was then I'd heard enough BS for the day and ended the call.
  What I hadn't told this clown, was that I was aware of the "WFT Electra 1200" distributed by Jarvis Walker Fishing Tackle Australia, is virtually the same reel. You be the judge......

Banax Kaigen 1000



WFT Electra 1200



This is one case where OEM rebadging can come in handy IF you know what the rebadged OEM reels are. Alan Hawk has some great articles on this on his fantastic blog.

http://www.alanhawk.com/blog/rebdd.html

Now for a bit of a happy ending, and hope for those in Australia reading this, that are having problems with your Kaigen 1000 reel.
I went to a local independent Tassie tackle store, (not the purchase place one), and asked the owner if he could get a replacement star for a WFT Electra 1200. "No problem" he says. He rings up Anglers Central Service Centre, https://www.anglerscentral.com.au/, asks, and within 5mins the order is made. 2 working days later the part arrives, total charge $13 (postage included). And guess what? Fits perfectly!
  If you are reading this from Australia, and are considering purchasing an "entry level" electric reel for deep reef fishing, give the WFT Electra 1200 some serious thought, over a Banax Kaigen 1000. You get a bonus set of harness lugs, and parts availability through Jarvis Walker/Anglers Central does not appear to be a problem.
  I don't like making posts like this, but feel it's important that this information is out there to save other people from being jerked around by rogue-ish tackle distributors that are rife in this country.
 If anyone else around the world knows of any other re-badged incarnations of this reel, please post it here.

Edit and Update - Interesting to note after rebuilding the picture links, thought I would look up old-mate from this post, and he no longer lists Banax reels on his website......"Things that make you go mmmmm"

Macs

Good day mate!
Hi everybody- azli from kuala lumpur malaysia.
having problem with my kaigen 1000 recently. So searching the net and lead me to this page. By reading and study all the posting here which is help me alot. all of the comment and advised very helpfull together with the picture. But problem that i am facing with my kaigen still not solve so i would like some assist here.

My kaigen at the beginning give symtom cannot winding in the line when strike the fish - few time forward and backward the lever untill sometime work and many time doesnt work. Untill it not response at all now.
So currently i already dismantle all the section and carefully working on hiw to open up the motor drive compartment to see inside. Unsuccessful yet !
Look forward If someone could advise further where to look for the problem or faulty parts.

Thank you and regards
Azli