Braid eating reels???

[BMITCH]

This was a point of intrest with LTM and floating doc on another thread. The answer I do not have and was hoping that some others here could shed some light on it.
  While we are all doing the tank upgrades of some sort or another. Has anyone had any issues with raid and or mono being eaten by the spool when casting. Of particular intrest to me would be the 112hn, 113hn and while we're at it what about the narrowed up jigmasters. Or any insight also to casting the 114hn. Although, for me I dont think I'll be casting 6/0's. Just a thought brought up by those guys.
Bob

[broschro]

I have two 113 h one narrow and one standard. I have 100# braid on booth no problems in two yrs use .i also use 60# on my 99 size jigmastter used on three separate trips for high speed jigging no problems. I also use it on my 209 in case I hook something bigger when catching bait.

[floating doc]

Thanks for starting this discussion. I can see it being very useful.

I'll join in with my limited experience. I have fished 15-20 pound braid on my small ambassador reels without trouble. In my larger conventional reels, I've fished braid of unknown size (came on the reel) on my Magpower 970 without a problem.

As I posted in the previous discussion, I sold my new jigmaster 506 when I found that I couldn't fish twenty pound mono without it going right under the spool. It had a relatively large gap, and I couldn't imagine fishing any kind of small diameter line on it. I considered buying an aftermarket frame for it.

I found this site while looking for a solution, and one of the members suggested that I only buy a frame if I could afford to have it not work. Since I was really broke at the time it made more sense to list it on ebay.

I'm planning to fish 65 on my 112HN with the tiburon frame and spool; it looks like it should be no problem but I haven't got the reel finished. I just bought a Baja Special; as noted in the previous discussion those reels are braid ready. I plan on 80 or 100 for it.

[BMITCH]

Floating doc, on the Baja what does the tolerance look like between th frame and spool compared to the 112hn? That should tell you something

[doradoben]

I had 3 new Penn 100 . All the same and with aluminum spools. They were late production with rubber grips. I bought them about the time they were discontinued. They all ate 15 and 20 lb. mono. I tried swapping some of the inside rings and spools around, but none of it seemed to matter. I gave up and they're long gone. So, I bought a 146 squidder that I've fished for years. It's been no problem with 15 lb. mono or 30 lb. spectra.

[CapeFish]

its the main reason why I don't fish with older model penn's. if you get the slightest bunching the line gets swallowed. it doesn't even have to be a proper overwind. even the graphite gs series did it. it's a curse I simply don't have the patience to deal with it.

[Alto Mare]

I had 3 new Penn 100 . All the same and with aluminum spools. They were late production with rubber grips. I bought them about the time they were discontinued. They all ate 15 and 20 lb. mono. I tried swapping some of the inside rings and spools around, but none of it seemed to matter. I gave up and they're long gone. So, I bought a 146 squidder that I've fished for years. It's been no problem with 15 lb. mono or 30 lb. spectra.

I wish I knew, I would have purchased those from you. I'm surprised you've mentioned the 100, that is one of the tightest reel. I just checked about a dozen( I really like them ) and the gap on all is .20mm....two sheets of standard paper, that is tight.
The squidders and jigmasters are the same, one of the jig-master was a little wider
I want to mention that if the spool is not centered, you will get a wider gap, also, todays reels are not as they used to be, the older models were designed for mono.

[Alto Mare]

I forgot to mention this one by Tom...one of the best reels I own:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=184.msg207#msg207
Tom's squidder is tighter than most that I have, not by much, but it is a little tighter. I have the Chromed spool on mine.

[BMITCH]

Sal, tom's upgrades look reallllly nice. Like I stated though. My concern was more on the 112h and 113h narrows. I can't remember, but I think I've run into the braid getting up under the spool on my jigmasters before. I think that Broschro has given them a good workout. And I value everyone's input. The braid has changed the game a bit. I was just getting a little nervous with all the narrows I've been upgrading lately. Not having any time last year to get out fishing has not given me any first hand knowledge. That'll change I hope this year  thanks guys
Bob

[Keta]

Most of my Spectra is 60/65 pound and I've never had problems.

[LTM]

When I read about the possibility of the tanked reels eating braid I freaked-out. For my experience with Penn reels eating line has been a nitemare to which I got rid of all my Penns except my 4/0's which didnt eat 40#+ line. Now that my 4/0's have/are in the process of being upgraded and I plan to spool them with baraid this brought up my concern. I have owned two Jiggmasters that I used for jigging with 25/30# line that ate line on a regular basis. I used finger nail polish to build up the edge on the spools, new spools and Tiburon frames all to no avail. Sold those due to furstration with line eating and bought a Penn GS 545 (or something, but definitely a GS) and it ate line as well. Ended up getting rid of all my Penns (squidder's as well) except my 4/0's. Back then (pre-braid days) all if not most of my reels were Penns. Started looking at Daiwa reels and never looked back at Penns since till I started the "tank". If I didnt already own some 113 YTS's from decades ago I would buy the Baja Special and wait for a ss gear sleeve to finish it out.

Leo

[Rusty hooks]

Many of the older penns have the spool shoulder slip under the edge of the frame which allows newer fine braid the opportunity to slip under and_________!!!.  I have 6 Senators in various sizes and all the spools slip under the frame. Interesting is the 3/0's have a slight shoulder which is turned into the frame but the 4/0's slip under with a relatively large clearance.

The new 113hn (I just received one for Christmas), has a machined spool shoulder of nearly 3/32"+ which enters under the frame at 90 degrees.  The line would have to turn 90 degrees and then run over the spool shoulder to a frame clearance which is about 2-3 standard paper (20-25mm)thicknesses to get in and cause great grief and frustration.  With older penns I've never had that problem...but have been using Dacron or older braid.....now, going to 80# JB spectra...??

I'm glad Santa decided to get me the new 113hn...hopefully the shoulder should eliminate the issue.

[floating doc]

Floating doc, on the Baja what does the tolerance look like between th frame and spool compared to the 112hn? That should tell you something

It looks really tight on both reels. I'll take a closer look at the 3/0, but there's a good description already posted of the113HN.

[CapeFish]

Many of the older penns have the spool shoulder slip under the edge of the frame which allows newer fine braid the opportunity to slip under and_________!!!.  I have 6 Senators in various sizes and all the spools slip under the frame. Interesting is the 3/0's have a slight shoulder which is turned into the frame but the 4/0's slip under with a relatively large clearance.

The new 113hn (I just received one for Christmas), has a machined spool shoulder of nearly 3/32"+ which enters under the frame at 90 degrees.  The line would have to turn 90 degrees and then run over the spool shoulder to a frame clearance which is about 2-3 standard paper (20-25mm)thicknesses to get in and cause great grief and frustration.  With older penns I've never had that problem...but have been using Dacron or older braid.....now, going to 80# JB spectra...??

I'm glad Santa decided to get me the new 113hn...hopefully the shoulder should eliminate the issue.

this is probably the main cause of line swallowing, even if  the spool/frame gap is tight, the line catches in the overhang and forces it through the gap between spool and frame. If you just lob short casts its not a problem, if you need to do long casts they test your patients to the limit.

[Propster]

I'm not sure if this is the same/similar problem as what you guys are describing, but wondering if you can point me in the right direction if anyone has experienced this. My son has a two year old Calcutta 400D that seems to abrade the first 20-30' of line pretty easily. I should note that he's musky fishing with this rig. First thing we suspected was hooks from baits on other rods rubbing on it when his rod was laid down with the others. Only problem is it wasn't happening to any of the other reels, though we started removing the baits anyway.

So then we checked all the guides on the rod with a Q Tip, though that doesn't explain why it only does it to the first 20' up from the leader when he's casting 30-50 yards. Even tried the reel on a different rod to no avail - still happened. I then started looking hard at the reel looking for any nicks or rough spots on the spool, the edge of the frame, etc. I replaced the line guide. I tried spooling up with less line. Still doing it. Mostly used 80# Suffix braid. The reel is smooth as can be and casts a mile. Retrieves like a dream. Wondered if the disengaging level wind had something to do with it (extra friction), but it is a fairly narrow spool as you know, and my own nearly identical rig does not exhibit the same issue. Nor have I heard of this from anyone else using these. Anyone have any thoughts I should look for? Thanks