Cut baja drags

Started by Topshot, January 29, 2014, 11:43:02 PM

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Topshot

I was looking into trying to cut some drags for the baja special. They have those eared washers and I've never cut them before. Does anyone have a method for it. Or do I just have to take my dremel and pray I get it right
Many men fish all their lives without ever realizing that it is not the fish they are after.
Michael Baughman

Cone

I buy them from Scott B&T. No cutting necessary.  Bob
"Quemadmoeum gladuis neminem occidit, occidentis telum est." (A sword is never a killer, it is a tool in the killer's hands.)
   -    Lucius Annaeus Seneca, circa 4 BC – 65 AD

Topshot

Quote from: Cone on January 30, 2014, 02:09:23 AM
I buy them from Scott B&T. No cutting necessary.  Bob
Hey buddy
I'm not going with the stock washers. I'm looking into making a 5+1 drag stack out of 1.mm carbon sheets.
Many men fish all their lives without ever realizing that it is not the fish they are after.
Michael Baughman

sundaytrucka

Not hating on you for wanting to cut your own, but it may be more of a hassel then you want to deal with. Most guys seem to use a die/press type of setup, I think one of the guys (Sal?) has posted a pic of the setup they use to punch CF washers.

Also, the Penn HT's are widely availably and quality; either way, great reel pick up! Do you happen to know if you picked up a pre or post 2005 model? Slight differences in the production runs, but Alan said not noticeable by most when in use.
I don't know how to do everything, but I know how to get everything done.

Cone

I had my best luck cutting out the hex drags with good scissors. I did make a cutting guide out of a piece of stainless. YMMV.  Bob
"Quemadmoeum gladuis neminem occidit, occidentis telum est." (A sword is never a killer, it is a tool in the killer's hands.)
   -    Lucius Annaeus Seneca, circa 4 BC – 65 AD


Ron Jones

I clamp the sheet between 2 blocks of wood to drill the center hole, then use shears to cut the outside diameter.
Ron
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

Keta

I have forming guides made from hardened steel, drill the ID then clamp the CF between the guides and shape the OD on my belt sander.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

TomT

For my 114h hex drags I followed Sharkhunter's advice and made a cutting guide out of an old credit card.  Made an a outline on the cf and cut with scissors and then sanded the edges to fit as necessary.
TomT

day0ne

#9
It might be easier to use the stock HT-100 washers and use a thinner metal washer. That round shape with six ears will be a pain to cut. Just a thought.
David


"Lately it occurs to me: What a long, strange trip it's been." - R. Hunter

maxpowers

#10
It is not too hard to do so but it will not be perfect.  You can buy a set of hollow punch from Harbor freight for $8 and should handle most of the sleeves.  For the ears what I did was made rough cuts and shape with a round file.  I am thinking of possibly buying a fine white marker and trace the ears around the stock CFs.  The ears would be bigger by possibly .500 mm so you may have to file it down a bit.  The hollow punch make easy work of the CF.  Just choose the punch that would make a hole large enough to slide onto the gear sleeve.  If you can make make it a bit tighter on the ID then it should hold better.  You would still need to buy some of the metal washers from Scott's.  I have also thought  instead of cutting new CFs, I would just use one of the super thin 113H cf first and put a metal washer on top.  That would probably take up about .700 to .800 mm.Now all the eared CFs are utilized.  I have to see if there is about .800 mm clearance in the stock configuration or not.  This would allow you to use the 4 eared CFs for up to 40+ lbs of potential drag.

Shark Hunter

Life is Good!