Abu 6601 C4, question(s)

[dogtwangg]

Newby here.  This site is so very helpful - glad I stumbled onto it.

Is this part necessary (hopefully pic attachment makes the trip)?  Its the plastic piece at the end of the spool shaft.  I assume it's intent is to help keep the shaft centered or maybe to keep it from wearing on the freespool cap?

I've been following the awesome tutorials on cleaning Abu reels of which I have 8, four of those are 6601 C4's.  All 4 of my 6601's I use for kokanee and sockeye with downriggers.  I've cleaned the reels and installed Carbontex washers as the tutorials instructed.  Cals grease and Reel-X oil I ordered same time as the washers.  I've removed the little plastic centrifugal brakes from one 6601 but haven't fished it yet.  I haven't removed the bearing shields but will try that.  I don't cast with these reels so I'm just trying to figure out what are the most reasonable things I can do to make them the best they can be.

Thanks

[Ken_D]

Hello. Yes, that disk is the bit that makes the connection to the axle.  I have it covered here.
Thumbnail: The disk clips on to the axle, which then pushes down on the spool bearing to effect cast control, as the cap is loosened or tightened. Cast control 101...   Cheers, Ken.

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2840

[dogtwangg]

Thanks Mike.  That helps but I found the following with further search.

It locks the shaft stationary so the bearings spin and not the shaft. The brass "stopper" on the axle makes contact with the inner race of the ball bearing in the spool, putting linear pressure on the balls, slowing the bearing down, and offering the spool tension control. The disk pulls the axle away from the bearing, thereby removing pressure by the brass collar. No disk, no steady, or accurate tension control. You get on, barely, or off. No finesse adjustment.  That's why seasoned casters can get away with no disk. But newbies get a runaway train.

RE: removal and replacement: The little "ear clips" sometimes want to break off, rendering the part unserviceable. One way to install the clip without breaking it is: have reel all assembled and ready to go, with the end cap in hand. Then place disk in the end cap, and tighten end cap to the bottom of the threads on the side plate boss. You will hear it click into position.  Then, you can back off on the threads, to reset tension control.

[bdoc]

the reel will work just fine and adjust just fine without it. even for newbe's. don't believe it try it.

[0119]

I keep a supply of those pesky things, as I break them regularly.

You might want to put the centrifugal brake pucks back on the one reel, even if its just for trolling and you will never cast it.  Don't cast it without them.

If they are mostly for kokanee trolling, you wont be gaining anything by prying off the ball bearings shields and running them open.  Unless they are terribly gummed up, just soak in white spirits or carberator cleaner for four or five minutes should do the job.

[alantani]

call pure fishing at 800-228-4272.  for single orders of parts like this, they will usually send them out for free. 

[Ron Jones]

The first thing I do is pull those blocks out. I have never understood why you would limit your casts. I am obviously wrong because everyone else uses them but it makes no sense to me at all.

[dogtwangg]

Thanks for the input.  Funny how opinions and experiences vary so much.  It seems to me that without the disc (properly installed) that freespool would be more erratic - that is if I understand the disc's function correctly.  If working as intended, based on the above explanation and with the cast control cap turned out, the shaft would be prevented from touching the spool bearing - longer cast (or bigger birdsnest).  If the disc wasn't in place the shaft would likely be touching the bearing at least to some extent and the shaft would be free to sort of drift back and forth a little.  Do I have that strait? 

As for the brake little plastic things - I don't know how they function.  Do they just operate independently based on how fast the spool is turning - inertia?  Seems there are enough manual adjustments if the cast control disc is in place and used, using one's thumb, and even the bait clicker all depending on how your letting your line out.  I really don't see the need of brakes I don't have control of.  But there must be something I'm missing - usually engineers have things in place for a reason.

Alan, thanks for the parts resource.  Unfortunately, I've already ordered 10 of the discs from different source, paying almost as much for shipping as the .89ea discs.

[Ken_D]

The first thing I do is pull those blocks out. I have never understood why you would limit your casts. I am obviously wrong because everyone else uses them but it makes no sense to me at all.

Hard to pull the blocks out/off on the latest 6-puck style. It's set up to activate or deactivate any/all of the 6, by pushing them back on the pins. (There's a detent on the rear of the posts, holding back the brakes) The older 2-pin system's blocks can be removed. With either system:

Their purpose is not really to cut back on cast distance, rather: to assist in anti-backlash, by making a bit of friction, to slow the spool up at the end of a cast. Congratulations on having a really good thumb !!!  

[Fish-aholic]

Thanks for the input.  Funny how opinions and experiences vary so much.  It seems to me that without the disc (properly installed) that freespool would be more erratic - that is if I understand the disc's function correctly.  If working as intended, based on the above explanation and with the cast control cap turned out, the shaft would be prevented from touching the spool bearing - longer cast (or bigger birdsnest).  If the disc wasn't in place the shaft would likely be touching the bearing at least to some extent and the shaft would be free to sort of drift back and forth a little.  Do I have that strait?  

As for the brake little plastic things - I don't know how they function.  Do they just operate independently based on how fast the spool is turning - inertia?  Seems there are enough manual adjustments if the cast control disc is in place and used, using one's thumb, and even the bait clicker all depending on how your letting your line out.  I really don't see the need of brakes I don't have control of.  But there must be something I'm missing - usually engineers have things in place for a reason.

Alan, thanks for the parts resource.  Unfortunately, I've already ordered 10 of the discs from different source, paying almost as much for shipping as the .89ea discs.

[bolded red] What I've taken on board from this forum is, there are many differing genres of fishing where reel tuning advice will suit their genre/needs, which in turn can be different to your needs. It isn't as black and white as we'd all like (horses for courses).    

Personally, I would want the plate in question to have a bite on the spindle so the control cap can operate it's movement accordingly.

Hard to pull the blocks out/off on the latest 6-puck style. It's set up to activate or deactivate any/all of the 6, by pushing them back on the pins. (There's a detent on the rear of the posts, holding back the brakes) The older 2-pin system's blocks can be removed. With either system:

Their purpose is not really to cut back on cast distance, rather: to assist in anti-backlash, by making a bit of friction, to slow the spool up at the end of a cast[/color]. Congratulations on having a really good thumb !!!  

Ken, the brake blocks/pucks operate at their optimum when the cast is on it's 'incline' due to the spool spinning at it's highest RPM (most centrifugal force). When the cast starts to decline, the spools RPM naturally slows and this is when the blocks/pucks begin to have less friction.

--------------------------------------------------------- My side thoughts of using the spool float control -------------------------------------------------

What you'll notice from using the spool float dial(s) as your only means of control, the spool bearings can develop a whine/high pitch noise during the cast due to the axial pressure put on the spools spindle which transfers to the inner races of the spool bearings. Such pressure will only increase wear, though, wear will be dependant on how excessive you've used the spool float controls (e.g. casting into a head wind), the weight of the item your throwing and distance.

By having 0.5mm of spool float, the correct combination of oil grade and the amount/size of brake blocks/pucks selected (trial & error), will take such pressures off the spool bearings which can only be a good thing in the long run. When the spool float controls are used very moderately, it can operate just fine - as I do in a severe head wind. But my preference overall is to use reels with minimal spool float and let the brakes do what their intended for. I am a bottom baiter via long distance surf casting and I can't use reels without blocks due to the RPM's created. Once a cast has been made and my thumb releases the spool, my thumb doesn't touch the spool again until the baited trace has declined and hits the water. I've never been one for thumbing the spool unless fishing off a boat.  

(anecdote) Recently I had a friend show me his second hand Daiwa SL20 purchase. I noticed it had tape covering the center of the left side plate and, being inquisitive, I asked him to peel it back. True enough the tape was masking a nice hole that had developed due to a missing brass shim found below the left spool bearing and a excessively used spool float control. The previous owner had in fact turned the spool spindle into a drill bit when retrieving. How anyone would continue to crank on the handle with such pressure beggars belief!  

Fish'

[Ken_D]

Correct;;; I phrased it wrong. From my casting experiaces, the line starts to "fluff" away from the spool about halfway through the arc, depending of course on how much juice the rodster applies. Regardless of friction the weights make, backlashes are still possible. With the thumb just barely touching the spool, the line can be felt coming up and away from the spool, and pressure then applied to prevent the "professional over-run".

Magnetic cast control seems to be easier to tame runaway spools. You?

Edit: I took a tip from a British caster.... I place 2 turns of soft electrical tape around the spool, just short of my maximum cast needs/capabilities. If I get a backlash, the tape prevents ruining the line below the tape. If a fish runs, the tape peels off and it's all good. Easy to add fresh tape after landing.

[Ken_D]

the reel will work just fine and adjust just fine without it. even for newbe's. don't believe it try it.

Yes, but it's a rather qualified yes. I checked with the plant in Iowa, and a couple of Abu warranty centers. The reply was the same in all cases. Yes, it works, but there is zero fine adjustment. You have on/off, no "fine tuning"

Myself, I found the same result over time, so I prefer to put the caps in rodster's reels...as not everybody has the same skillset in casting, maintaining, yada. 

[dogtwangg]

Okay.  I'm glad those discs will arrive soon - I will use them.  For my use, since I don't cast those reels I suppose the brake blocks/pucks could be on or off and I suppose on would be most best.  I'll put em back on.  So, I'll once again have factory reels just with better drag washers.  Can't wait for it to warm up.

Thanks.

[Fish-aholic]

Correct;;; I phrased it wrong. From my casting experiaces, the line starts to "fluff" away from the spool about halfway through the arc, depending of course on how much juice the rodster applies. Regardless of friction the weights make, backlashes are still possible. With the thumb just barely touching the spool, the line can be felt coming up and away from the spool, and pressure then applied to prevent the "professional over-run".

Magnetic cast control seems to be easier to tame runaway spools. You?

Edit: I took a tip from a British caster.... I place 2 turns of soft electrical tape around the spool, just short of my maximum cast needs/capabilities. If I get a backlash, the tape prevents ruining the line below the tape. If a fish runs, the tape peels off and it's all good. Easy to add fresh tape after landing.

I thought it was a typo error (man of your experience), but I thought I'd elaborate with my explanation for the benefit of the forum. I hope I didn't come across as patronizing?

Yes, fluffing up after the cast has peaked is a sure sign of the weight/lure losing the ability to tow the excess line thrown by the revolving spool. I have to contend with this for my own long distance fishing from cast to cast due to the aerodynamic change of the bait size/weight. I could cast out a big bait one cast and the next a much smaller one, so I have to adjust my reel to suit and that's where the spool tension cap on say a saltist 20h comes into it's own. The reel runs very well with minimal spool float (.5mm), two small Abu fibre brake blocks/pucks, small baits in calm/favourable conditions. With a big bait I have to adjust the control cap by a mere 5mm rotation so to just barely take out the float and this still achieves great distances, more so, safely (nest free).

Reels that are manufactured with mag units are a doodle to use. With a Abu 6500c3 ct mag (slidey adjuster), you could centralize the spool, have .5mm float and bench test the mag unit with a full spool of line taped down. You'd be looking between 6 seconds on maximum mag braking (safe enough to cast any bait size into a strong headwind) - to a minute with the mags set to minimum. All I'd need to worry about is where the mag adjuster is placed before casting. Much more controllable and keeps any axial pressure, from the use of a control cap, off the spool bearings.

What I'm not a fan of is the after market mag units (mono mags/center mags). Those units have their place when distance casting in a field, but for sea fishing, the protruding knob resembles a coat hanger. The amount of times I have to manually adjust to stop the magnet(s) contacting the wall of the spool from heavy handed use is ridiculous. The knobs are pinched in place by a small hex grub and they soon lose their bite. They obviously do the job as intended, but it's an item I frequently see go wrong.

I like your edited tip. Makes for good sense to me.  



     

[Robert Janssen]

Yes, fluffing up after the cast has peaked is a sure sign of the weight/lure losing the ability to tow the excess line thrown by the revolving spool.

Haven't read it all, but just fwiw, do also note that the spool RPM actually accelerates toward the middle of the cast, as the weight maintains speed but line/spool diameter lessens. This is part of the reason for fluff, and centrifugal casting brakes as a fluff controller.

.