So a few weeks ago Dom presented me with a request that posed a bit of a challenge. He wanted a drag star with a wider profile at the tips of the stars, so it would be more finger friendly in use. The challenge was that the threaded portion can't be much thicker than 1/8", so there would be machining involved. I couldn't just cut the profile from flat sheet like the simpler stars.
So here is the process I came up with. I cut the star profile, with tabs holding it into a ring, out of 1/4" 316ss on the waterjet. That is my blank, and the ring is to be able to clamp it in my lathe for machining.
Next I set the compound slide to an angle that gives me 1/8" depth over 1/2" of travel, and machined the bevel into one side of the star blank. Then I reamed the center hole and tapped it to 1/2-32.
Then I used the lathe to cut a v notch into the blank between the ring and the star. I did this on both sides, cutting nearly halfway through on each side. Once it was cut, a few taps with a brass punch and hammer, and the star was free from the ring.
After a little smoothing and polishing, here's the finished part. And the clearance is perfect even with a locked down drag, as in the last picture.
beautiful work!!!!
Good Stuff Adam! ;)
Adam that last photo tells it all. That is beautiful work. Dominick
As Alan has said, beautiful. Now can you make some for a 6/0? I'll be in for a couple if you can. Or will these already fit?
Quote from: Rothmar2 on April 19, 2014, 05:23:15 AM
As Alan has said, beautiful. Now can you make some for a 6/0? I'll be in for a couple if you can. Or will these already fit?
The 6/0 and up have a buttress thread, not a standard thread profile. I haven't been able to find an off the shelf tap, but I'm working on getting a custom one made.
It really takes some know how on the Buttress Threads. I didn't even know what they were until recently.
I think if you really want them to fit, you have to make your own taps. Here is a custom 12/0 sleeve I received recently and the craftsmanship is beyond compare! :o
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_23931_zps5ec937a2.jpg)
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_23941_zpse7b6b083.jpg)
I'm not knocking your work buddy! ;) You have provided me with my coveted Shark Handles. I'm just saying, I think the Buttress taps are a trade secret and to do them right, You need to make your own.
Those are beautiful and exactly what I think that a star should be. However, I'll bet they are going to cost a pretty penny. Have you calculated a price yet?
Lensters,
Adam (Three se7ens) is on the up and up. I think you will be surprised what you can get these for. ;)
Quote from: Lensters on April 19, 2014, 06:09:25 AM
Those are beautiful and exactly what I think that a star should be. However, I'll bet they are going to cost a pretty penny. Have you calculated a price yet?
I have not set a price yet. Im working on a production schedule that will cut the time involved down so I can offer them at a fair price. That being said, the polishing adds a huge amount of time, and that's a killer on the price. I could offer them as machined at a lower price though.
The real value of this design will be the larger sizes, where the drag numbers go way up, as well as the need to change the drag more often. I'm working getting a tap for the 114/115, and I'll size up from there.
You keep up the good work Adam! You are making a lot of happy Fishermen! ;)
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 19, 2014, 06:31:58 AMthe polishing adds a huge amount of time, and that's a killer on the price.
Yup, it was taking me 30-45 minutes to polish my handle arms. Right now I can't even run my drill press due to the cast and pain when I use/abuse my left hand.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on April 19, 2014, 06:13:41 AM
Lensters,
Adam (Three se7ens) is on the up and up. I think you will be surprised what you can get these for. ;)
I don't doubt he's going to do the best he can. However, there is about the same amount of raw material (OK, half but still a lot) and more steps as machining a side plate.
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 19, 2014, 06:31:58 AM
I have not set a price yet. I'm working on a production schedule that will cut the time involved down so I can offer them at a fair price. That being said, the polishing adds a huge amount of time, and that's a killer on the price. I could offer them as machined at a lower price though.
It might work better to replace the water cutter and lathe and go with the CNC for both of those steps. The accuracy will suffer slightly but it will never be noticed for this application and it takes out a step. Forget the polishing, if people want them polished they can do it themselves. Most people have the skills to do that and the equipment is cheap enough.
I wonder what the effective costs would be to send a batch off for powder coating, chroming, or anodizing? Is it possible or viable? Or are you just hiding that pretty SS?
I'm not worried about the polishing, can do that myself. Just looked and can see why the buttress tap would be difficult to source. I would think jigging on a CNC lathe to do the thread would be the time effective way of doing it. Good on you Adam for what you have achieved so far, great work!
I think they look great and better more....Strong..!!
Quote from: Tightlines666 on April 19, 2014, 08:17:58 AM
I wonder what the effective costs would be to send a batch off for powder coating, chroming, or anodizing? Is it possible or viable? Or are you just hiding that pretty SS?
Nothing more pretty as polished SS... :)
Quote from: Mandelstam on April 19, 2014, 06:01:12 PM
Nothing more pretty as polished SS... :)
Karl don't they have women in Sweden? :D Dominick
Quote from: Lensters on April 19, 2014, 07:44:44 AM
Quote from: Shark Hunter on April 19, 2014, 06:13:41 AM
Lensters,
Adam (Three se7ens) is on the up and up. I think you will be surprised what you can get these for. ;)
I don't doubt he's going to do the best he can. However, there is about the same amount of raw material (OK, half but still a lot) and more steps as machining a side plate.
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 19, 2014, 06:31:58 AM
I have not set a price yet. I'm working on a production schedule that will cut the time involved down so I can offer them at a fair price. That being said, the polishing adds a huge amount of time, and that's a killer on the price. I could offer them as machined at a lower price though.
It might work better to replace the water cutter and lathe and go with the CNC for both of those steps. The accuracy will suffer slightly but it will never be noticed for this application and it takes out a step. Forget the polishing, if people want them polished they can do it themselves. Most people have the skills to do that and the equipment is cheap enough.
My experience: Going from a design in your head to a part dropping out of a CNC machine is fun, but it is a time intensive, multi-discipline, multi-iteration process.
As a rule, milling will be more accurate than waterjet. CNC milling this part will use less material, and a higher level of finish off the machine is possible relative to waterjet/manual lathe. But it would require creating the part files, machine instructions, etc. plus creating fixture plate(s) of some sort. When you Cnc machine a part, you have to program speeds and feeds for every individual cut in advance, so it can take a couple of runs to get it dialed in, esp. with less forgiving materials like stainless steel. You need to acquire different bits for different cuts and roughing vs. finishing. Manual machining allows for instant adjustment of cuts based on what you are seeing. The waterjet will cut a part without any work hardening.
IMHO, waterjet-manual lathe is a good match for small batches for this part. If going to CNC & assuming all the CAD/CAM skills and software were free (the software is $$$), you might need to get into the hundreds of units to break even. If you had to hire out the programming or buy the software, you better be planning to charge big bucks or make thousands of units.
BTW- congrats to Adam and Dom. That's some serious reel candy!
Jurelometer/3-7's,
From your discussions, I assertain that the flats created along with the refined details (radiusing,etc) are possible via CNC and NOT AVAILABLE via WATERJET? The flats and ergo's on this strar would be great additions to the star pattern referenced/liked by Sal, myself and others in the other thread by 3-7. Is it possible for you Adam to incorporate the flats and some of the other ergos into you other star design?
Thanx,
Leo
I have to say that that is quite some innovation right there. I, and I'm sure everyone else here, has spent the day after fishing nursing sore fingertips from locking down narrow stars. I sincerely hope you bring these to market.
Ron
Quote from: LTM on April 19, 2014, 08:31:08 PM
Jurelometer/3-7's,
From your discussions, I assertain that the flats created along with the refined details (radiusing,etc) are possible via CNC and NOT AVAILABLE via WATERJET? The flats and ergo's on this strar would be great additions to the star pattern referenced/liked by Sal, myself and others in the other thread by 3-7. Is it possible for you Adam to incorporate the flats and some of the other ergos into you other star design?
Thanx,
Leo
Possible, but the cost keeps going up. The market is small for these parts, so it gets tricky.
Here is a primer on the technology:
water jets (and lasers) can cut on two dimensions ( typically cutting out flat shapes from a sheet). Pretty much whatever you can make in a line drawing. Simple to design and program a part to cut. Parts can be cut as needed without too much setup. Controlling the accuracy in depth of the cut is limited, so these machines are generally used to cut completely through the material, or to engrave the surface. A milling machine can control the depth of the cut, so it is more suited for 3D situations. Design, planning, setup and cutting with a mill is much more complicated, with more that can go wrong.
Water jets and lasers are pretty much always computer controlled. Lathes and mills can be either computer controlled or manual. Computer controlled (CNC) machines are accurate, but they are not smart. They take a set of simple instructions (gcode) and blindly follow. The gcode will include steps like rotate the bit clockwise 500 rpm, move -.005 inch on Z axis ( down) at 2inches per minute, Etc. etc.) The cut management (CAM) software helps you generate the gcode from the shapes generated by the design (CAD) software.
And then there is 3D printing - small batches of complex parts become more practical. Metal printing machines and raw material are too expensive now, but perhaps in the somewhat distant future we will be exploiting the technology for 3d shark shaped titanium reel handles and other noble pursuits.
CNC milling would be the way to go for a large batch of parts, and is what the OEMs use on newer reels with profiled drag stars. But it's only cost effective there because they do runs of thousands of parts at a time, and can amortize the programming and tooling cost across as many pieces. Small production runs and one-off parts are significantly more expensive per piece.
In the course of cutting this one drag star, I had nearly 2 hours of time into machining it, and much of that was just setting up for the different cuts, changing the tooling, etc. There is time to be saved by doing each operation on a batch of parts before changing the tool, but there is still a good bit of cutting time into these.
The real question is what would you be willing to pay for these if I did produce them?
Quote from: noyb72 on April 19, 2014, 08:58:32 PM
I have to say that that is quite some innovation right there. I, and I'm sure everyone else here, has spent the day after fishing nursing sore fingertips from locking down narrow stars. I sincerely hope you bring these to market.
Ron
x2 Adam.. very nice work, and way to raise the bar mate! 8)
I'll toss the first number out there for a custom 316 star, not the 1 manual one you did, but with some production run in the 100's maybe..
How about 20 bucks to start??
Keep up the good work! I'm eagerly awaiting 114/115 stars ! ;D
Has anyone considered screw cutting the buttress thread on a lathe and using the Sleeve as a gauge?
Quote from: Irish Jigger on April 21, 2014, 09:52:04 AM
Has anyone considered screw cutting the buttress thread on a lathe and using the Sleeve as a gauge?
I have, but my machine won't turn slow enough until I get the new motor installed. Low speed is 250 rpm at the moment...
Btw, just those Waterjet cut blanks are $15 each for me to buy.
Adam,
That star is a beautiful thing! With this star you're adding strength, comfort, function, and aesthetics.... I'm a fan!
I would love to see them, like Erik, at $20, but I think around $35 would be fair considering all the work going into it, but only you know the value of your time.
I'm just basing my numbers off all the other custom parts being made, so don't hold me to it.
Thanks for bringing these to the market... hopefully! ;)
Dom
Yeah, I was just throwing a number into the wind... by no means take offense from my measly offering ;D ;D
Quote from: erikpowell on April 22, 2014, 01:54:29 AM
Yeah, I was just throwing a number into the wind... by no means take offense from my measly offering ;D ;D
No offense taken, every opinion matters. I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts, no matter how low or high. That's ultimately going to determine if these are feasible to produce as something other than a one-off part.
The "market" is small.
I think Everyone's opinion really belongs with the Heavy Hitters Here if this is a go or a no-go. You know who you are, so there is really no reason for name dropping. Me, I don't want to be a party pooper, but the stainless on stainless thing is going to steer me away.
There has been some Awesome innovation invade this place as of recent. I am stepping back on this one.
Adam, You keep up the good work My Man! ;)
Bula Daron!
Why is stainless on stainless steering you away bro?
I figured you'd be all over some custom stars.
Whats the scoop man? ;D
If Adam can come up with a stainless star for the 114's I'm in for 2 at any price he see's fit to charge.
Great work.
Quote from: erikpowell on April 24, 2014, 07:26:35 AM
Bula Daron!
Why is stainless on stainless steering you away bro?
I figured you'd be all over some custom stars.
Whats the scoop man? ;D
Stainless is prone to galling, but I don't think the right circumstances exist for it to be a problem here. Friction can build up a tremendous about of heat in stainless, and since stainless is such a poor conductor of heat, it can't dissipate it quickly. That heat build up causes parts to basically weld themselves together. But with a drag star, adjustments are typically small and slow, not to mention it's probably going to be greased.
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 24, 2014, 12:28:09 PM
Stainless is prone to galling, but I don't think the right circumstances exist for it to be a problem here. Friction can build up a tremendous about of heat in stainless, and since stainless is such a poor conductor of heat, it can't dissipate it quickly. That heat build up causes parts to basically weld themselves together. But with a drag star, adjustments are typically small and slow, not to mention it's probably going to be greased.
now i know why some reel manufacturers use bronze and SS for the gears. and if only i have the funds to burn i have an idea which composition/s to use for metal drag washers, pressure plate and drag plate/brake disc.
Buttress threaded stars will require a permanent mark on the underside face to assist assembly.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on April 24, 2014, 05:41:01 AM
I think Everyone's opinion really belongs with the Heavy Hitters Here if this is a go or a no-go. You know who you are, so there is really no reason for name dropping. Me, I don't want to be a party pooper, but the stainless on stainless thing is going to steer me away.
There has been some Awesome innovation invade this place as of recent. I am stepping back on this one.
Adam, You keep up the good work My Man! ;)
As Adam states, he needs to hear from EVERYONE not just the socalled "heavy hitters" otherwise just PM the heavy hitters and remove this post until you post the final product. Then see just how SMALL the market will be then. If the price can be held to no more than $25 it will prove to be affordable. If it goes for more it will be cost prohibitive to individuals who need more than one or two units. I think a better question would be to post a poll to find out how many forum users have this particular model of Penn reel(s) to find out what the market IS!!! BTW Daron, I thought you werent interested!!!
Leo
Leo
Just putting in my two cents Leo! ;)
Heavy Hitters are the guys that are going to buy at least six of these to let Adam know if he can go forward on this adventure. Just because I'm not buying any, doesn't mean I can't cheer him on! ;D
That's the spirit Daron ;)
Quote from: Shark Hunter on April 24, 2014, 05:41:01 AM
I think Everyone's opinion really belongs with the Heavy Hitters Here if this is a go or a no-go.
Me, I don't want to be a party pooper, but the stainless on stainless thing is going to steer me away........
There has been some Awesome innovation invade this place as of recent. I am stepping back on this one.
Daron,
Your first statement is a contradiction; for if everyone OPINION "BELONGS" with the "Heavy Hitters" then in reality THEY DONT HAVE AN OPINION. Thats why I stated they (heavy hitters) may just as well do this privately WITHOUT THE INPUT FROM THE FORUM MEMBERS. this is just a FACT!! Otherwise, it sounds like your the Gestappo proclaming the edicts of Hitler!!!
Your last statement has merit and is appreciated for bringing this up.
Leo
I can remove it if you like Leo. :-*
I really don't see the problem here. I guess I better stop using the term heavy hitters.
I didn't realize it was related to Hitler or the Gestappo?
The guys that are going to buy several right off the bat, rather than one here and there is all that I meant. You are not going to get an argument here Buddy! ;D
Lets Kiss and Make Up! :-*
Its all good! I apologize if I offended you. ;)
Daron
Quote from: Shark Hunter on April 25, 2014, 08:28:57 AM
I can remove it if you like Leo. :-*
I really don't see the problem here. I guess I better stop using the term heavy hitters.
I didn't realize it was related to Hitler or the Gestappo?
The guys that are going to buy several right off the bat, rather than one here and there is all that I meant. You are not going to get an argument here Buddy! ;D
Lets Kiss and Make Up! :-*
Its all good! I apologize if I offended you. ;)
Daron
Daron,
Im defending the main focus of a "Forum" which is OPEN DISCUSSION and Adams "request" to get the opinions of the forum MEMBERS and not a SELECT FEW.
Moving on, I was wondering if regarding the galling issue if this could be tested/simulated by a prolonged static test with increasing amounts of drag (say from 20-45#) for an extended amount of time to simulate a prolonged fight with a fish?
Leo
That is exactly why I am not willing to try. With a stainless sleeve and star. The heat buildup will be tremendous for the type of fishing I do. I'm after a 200 to 600 pound fish that is going to really test the abilities of my Old Senators. I know from my Dirt Bike days, that stainless bolts and nuts weld themselves together with heat. For the average fisherman, these ss stars will be fine.
The prototype ss sleeves that Tom Hyrinuk made me to test out on my 12 and 14/0s will be tested in a few short weeks. I'm not ready to gamble these with SS Stars on them, because if I do get the Shark I seek, The Brass star will not gall itself to the sleeve.
Quote from: LTM on April 24, 2014, 04:48:41 PM
If the price can be held to no more than $25 it will prove to be affordable.
i agree and you'll probably sell more...
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 24, 2014, 12:28:09 PM
Stainless is prone to galling, but I don't think the right circumstances exist for it to be a problem here. Friction can build up a tremendous about of heat in stainless, and since stainless is such a poor conductor of heat, it can't dissipate it quickly. That heat build up causes parts to basically weld themselves together. But with a drag star, adjustments are typically small and slow, not to mention it's probably going to be greased.
Thanks for the beta Adam. I'm seeing a picture now..
but I have questions
As I understand, galling is caused by friction and the heat generated by that friction.... right?
So, if you take away the friction.... i.e.: the star is not even moving for 99% of a fight... i.e. scale your drag, set and forget.
(can any man twist a star fast enough to create that kind of friction anyway? )
And are left with only the heat...... heat applied to an effectively stationary star.... and from a secondary source
("scalding" heat, not "melting" heat)
(star maybe nudging back and forth every now and then...effectively speaking)
Should galling even be a concern? and if so, how and why? Has it failed in this application before?
Which leads me to another easy question..
When my stock brass star is too hot to touch with bare hands... will stainless steel be hotter, cooler, or the same?
And if heat is such a factor, while we're at the drawing board here...
How about looking into like an "aero star" design..with cutouts, or vanes, ribs, or fins to help shed heat
there could be bigger "paddles" instead of little fingers, affording more room for cutouts...an extreme would be shamrock, or a 4 leaf clover
Anybody who's fought big fish on metal star drags has scorched their fingers and had to reach for gloves more than once.
It'd be cool if somebody could tout "Our stars run cooler" or "Bare hander" ;D ;D ;D
Cheers Ya'll
After reading up some on galling I've understood that hardened steel is very resistant to galling. Is that an option, to harden the star and sleeve? Maybe it's just not worth it as it's another step in the manufacturing process that has to be paid for by the customers in the long run.
Very nice work though Adam!
Karl
Most of us appear to prefer 316ss for its anti corrosive properties.
Unfortunately 316 cannot be through hardened.
This was proven on Sal's testing of 5:1 ratio 316ss pinions recently which failed under load.
Has anyone actually stripped buttress threaded Star/Sleeves on their original Penn's?
Galling is primarily a concern with the softer stainless alloys such as 316 and 304. Harder alloys are less prone to galling, but 316 can only be work hardened.
Using formed threads instead of cut threads would increase the hardness at the threads, and reduce the tendency to gall.
I still don't think it will be an issue here though.
Hard chrome over heat treated 4130 would make an indestructible star and/or sleeve. It could have 5-6 times the strength of 316, and the hard chrome would give it corrision protection, low friction on the threads, and a Rockwell C hardness in the upper 60's.
I wish I didn't sell the Inconel and Hasteloy scrap I had, these are hard to work but better material than SS. I have a Hasteloy scallop bar that does not flex or chip but I had to make it on a belt sander.
Quote from: erikpowell on April 25, 2014, 12:19:41 PM
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 24, 2014, 12:28:09 PM
Stainless is prone to galling, but I don't think the right circumstances exist for it to be a problem here. Friction can build up a tremendous about of heat in stainless, and since stainless is such a poor conductor of heat, it can't dissipate it quickly. That heat build up causes parts to basically weld themselves together. But with a drag star, adjustments are typically small and slow, not to mention it's probably going to be greased.
Thanks for the beta Adam. I'm seeing a picture now..
but I have questions
As I understand, galling is caused by friction and the heat generated by that friction.... right?
So, if you take away the friction.... i.e.: the star is not even moving for 99% of a fight... i.e. scale your drag, set and forget.
(can any man twist a star fast enough to create that kind of friction anyway? )
And are left with only the heat...... heat applied to an effectively stationary star.... and from a secondary source
("scalding" heat, not "melting" heat)
(star maybe nudging back and forth every now and then...effectively speaking)
Should galling even be a concern? and if so, how and why? Has it failed in this application before?
Which leads me to another easy question..
When my stock brass star is too hot to touch with bare hands... will stainless steel be hotter, cooler, or the same?
And if heat is such a factor, while we're at the drawing board here...
How about looking into like an "aero star" design..with cutouts, or vanes, ribs, or fins to help shed heat
there could be bigger "paddles" instead of little fingers, affording more room for cutouts...an extreme would be shamrock, or a 4 leaf clover
Anybody who's fought big fish on metal star drags has scorched their fingers and had to reach for gloves more than once.
It'd be cool if somebody could tout "Our stars run cooler" or "Bare hander" ;D ;D ;D
Cheers Ya'll
Conduction is a function of surface area, mass, temperature and material conductity. Those giant brass slabs on the bigg senators have a lot of mass, but brass is a much better conductor than stainless. Aluminum is probably the best practical material in terms of conduction, but would require an insert of a stronger metal to avoid stripping threads. Titanium is just about as bad a conductor as stainless. To determine how much heat could be dissipated by a star, we would need tho plug the relative temperature (drag to air), surface area, thickness and material conductivity number in the Fourier calculations. If a star could be designed that would dissipate a useful amount of heat, then you would have to figure out how much heat could be transferred from the drag stack through the washers/spacers and up to the star.
This does lead down an interesting path. Theoretically, thinner drag washers should be better, esp if you are using stainless. a brass main gear and sleeve is better for heat dissipation (Although not as strong as stainless). If you could figure out how to get the heat up to it, an aluminum crank arm would dissipate a bunch more heat than a star. Increasing the surface area on the main gear (holes). Increasing the air space and flow around the main gear...
But how much is drag heat a real issue in a properly maintained Senator with carbon fiber drags? My experience with higher drag is limited to marlin and medium grade tuna at 20 lbs drag on a 114HLW. Gotten half way down the spool relatively quickly with no smoke or heat on the star?
BTW I also would be surprised to find galling as an issue on stainless stars. There are not many threads, the fit is not super tight, they are turned slowly under hand pressure, and lubricated. Could make them out of brass and powder coat them though...
I owned a TR-6 and had to rebuild the rear hubs a couple of times. Galling was an issue but there was much heat generated in the wheel. The second time I had to take them apart they came apart easily because I used anti-cease where the parts were joined. I do not see galling an issue in this type use. I am willing to test it out. I am waiting for one to put on the tank and it is going with me to Baja in June. Dominick
TR-6? Was that your snaggin' wagon Dominick? ;) I hope Adam does good on this Venture, I just don't want to see him make a bunch of custom stars and be stuck with them like Dom's Frames.
Everbody wants a piece of the action, but when its said and done, High priced parts are hard to move.
I thought they would fly of the shelves. 30 of them did. Then it came to a screeching halt. There are only so many Reel Heads willing to fork over $100 for a hot rod part.
Quote from: Dominick on April 26, 2014, 04:03:43 AM
...anti-cease...
why didn't i think of that, great idea Dominick! i apply Permatex anti-seize lubricant on spark plugs' thread before installation to prevent exactly these; seizing, galling and corrosion.
Make sure it's not metal bearing anti-seize, that causes electrolysis issues around saltwater.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on April 26, 2014, 04:18:30 AM
TR-6? Was that your snaggin' wagon Dominick? ;) I hope Adam does good on this Venture, I just don't want to see him make a bunch of custom stars and be stuck with them like Dom's Frames.
Everbody wants a piece of the action, but when its said and done, High priced parts are hard to move.
I thought they would fly of the shelves. 30 of them did. Then it came to a screeching halt. There are only so many Reel Heads willing to fork over $100 for a hot rod part.
I don't have to commit to a minimum quantity on these, so it's not like I'm going to be stuck with a bunch of parts. But more demand does help keep the price down.
I think that just grease is the way to go. It's good practice whether you have stainless or brass parts anyways.
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 25, 2014, 02:10:21 PM
Hard chrome over heat treated 4130 would make an indestructible star and/or sleeve. It could have 5-6 times the strength of 316, and the hard chrome would give it corrision protection, low friction on the threads, and a Rockwell C hardness in the upper 60's.
Surely this would cause a large price hike as the screw threads would require grinding after hard chroming?
Quote from: Irish Jigger on April 26, 2014, 07:39:12 PM
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 25, 2014, 02:10:21 PM
Hard chrome over heat treated 4130 would make an indestructible star and/or sleeve. It could have 5-6 times the strength of 316, and the hard chrome would give it corrision protection, low friction on the threads, and a Rockwell C hardness in the upper 60's.
Surely this would cause a large price hike as the screw threads would require grinding after hard chroming?
Typically, the hole would be tapped using a higher pitch limit tap so no grinding would be necessary. But the price would still be prohibitive. I don't see many people being interested in a $50-$60 drag star for a reel you can get for less than that. Besides, it's just not realistic to get the performance of the complete reel to a level where it could take advantage of that.
Last ones from this batch. The picture doesn't do the finish just, it's polished to a mirror finish.
I'm really thinking the cart has gone before the horse on this one. Stainless is good and hard, and the star just does't move in a manner that would cause galling. These stars are a fantastic product and some will be mine after the Ohana trip.
Ron