Following in the footsteps of the finesse bass reel spool mods- I wanted a spool in the medium multiplier reel size that can throw 1oz and start up as fast as possible.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/10gwr2v.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/nlar7s.jpg)
Holding capacity suffix 832 50lb = 250m stitched with a 80lb 832 leader. Purpose built for spinning for Yellowtail and casting practice.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/w6ozt4.jpg)
The Reducer is gold anodised Curtain Rail aluminium pipe cut into two equal halves and both halves lock into the holes drilled with protrusions I included on the side of eah half and must be perfectly centred, then no vibration occurs. This one is crude and weighs around 6 grams.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/23vc9hk.jpg)
Reducers can be set to any height or level on the spool according to the holes you have drilled for them, depending on where you want them.
I will post some drawings of the other options you have for the reducers.
One spool can be designed to accommodate reducers at different levels.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/3531e1c.jpg)
- Superior/excellent spool start up speed and accelaration
- Very stable spinning due to the aerobraking affect caused by the design.
- capable of casting ultra light weights due to spool weight reduction .
- For general casting it is now ALOT faster at startup than the standard spool.
Prior to going aero the original spool was taken down as much as possible in order to rival the weight of an equal size abu spool from back in the day.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/i4kavt.jpg)
Taken down in a lathe and polished prior to going aerospool.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/14e6zph.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/314qb8g.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/sngldk.jpg)
After all the work and prototyping the blemishes needed a going over.
I sprayed up the completed prototype and baked it - Job done and have the recipe for the next one. -
(http://i64.tinypic.com/14jrqds.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/rvhok3.jpg)
It is by far, the fastest Medium sized reel I have cast with !
It whistles like a turbocharger and starts up with as little as 25grams -
The 50lb 832 Braid capacity with the line cap. reducer is 250m. (above photo)
I spooled it up as tight as possible and nothing popped..
Drag tests did not dislodge the line capacity reducer or break the spool. 15lbs + pulling on a rugby post.
Good results so far!! I'm positive it will be able to be used for fishing.
The light weight makes casting very efficient as little energy is needed to get the spool going and the projectile does not get slowed down by the weight of the spool.
At present the prototype weighs in at 44grams - 4 grams above the goal weight but close enough for the first mockup.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/xeobro.jpg)
Copy at will - All anglers should have the opportunity to have so much fun with a multiplier.
I believe this could be a great aftermarket product for any medium or large sized fishing reel out there.
Take the standard spool out and pop a hyper aerospool in. Turning your standard reel into a casting machine.
It is hyper fast , strong enough for the concept that it is and loads of fun...but most importantly, it works.
It takes a med/large sized multiplier to the next level of performance.
Please Ask any questions ,I'll endeavour to answer them.
Great job. Well done!
.
Lighter spools for casting weights under one ounce is something I've been messing with too...only your efforts are much more technical...nice work! 8)
Very nice work :)
If I didn't see it I would not have believed it.
That's off the wall incredible!
Nice work indeed.
Good idea and looks cool!
Good work brother...thanks for sharing....Bill
Thank you for the positive comments Gents.
Will keep you posted on further developments.
What keeps the saltwater out of the reel?
Quote from: Vintage Offshore Tackle on July 17, 2016, 09:03:26 PM
What keeps the saltwater out of the reel?
I was thinking by being so open...a freshwater rinse would hit everything inside...and dry fast too.
That's true. That's definitely the raciest looking spool that I have ever seen, like it belongs on a Formula 1 car!
What I do is spray a lubricant that coats the inside side plates and bearings and aids in causing the water to bead.
The water then beads off towards the bottom of the sideplates.
The bearings are open and have Quantum hot sauce and prolong SPL 100 over them.
The water seems to bead off them well. I am in a testing phase with this and all my fishing is salt water based.
Using braid brings a lot of water back up to the reel during a casting session so when i'm done I rinse it in fresh water. Shake the reel off and let it air dry. mo65 is right on the money about this.
There is a product in South Africa called Wynflon. It is a PTFE based spray and I have found it to be braid friendly.
It has a long tube adaptor for the spray nozzle so I can insert it through the spool holes and spray the bearings without taking the reel apart and not worry about the lubricant getting on the braid and breaking it down.
http://www.wynns.co.za/ - second product from the right.
I used this product with success prior to testing with the other products I am using currently.
Product info - Wynflon- Superior PTFE lubrication with high load carrying properties. Ideal for garage worm gears, bike chains, fishing reels, gun mechanisms, gym equipment and micro gears. Wynflon is a clean lubricant which flashes off the surface leaving dry solids to lubricate.
My periodic checks inside the reel have revealed that this method is working but by no means fullproof. Running an open spool is not maintenance free. Its been a couple weeks now casting every second day and the bearings are still holding lubricant and are free of debris.
If I was casting on the sandy beach and wading I would run the bearings closed and full of blue marine grease or find some magsealed bearings. Still, having the bearing coated in a hydrophobic film will help a lot.
Something that creates a debris ingress block . Greasing the bearing would drop the performance level of the spool though...
The concept is definitely application specific, similar to the finesse bass spools.
Quote from: seriola on July 19, 2016, 09:06:26 AM
Greasing the bearing would drop the performance level of the spool though...
I have an idea...and no clue if it will work...but it sounds good on paper. :D ;) :P What if you lubed the bearings with your preferred high speed oil, reinstalled shields, then slather the outside with a marine grease. The only problem I can see is too much grease on the spindle
may slow it down a bit. Only one way to find out though! 8)
that looks awesome but Im kind of loss on the size of the reel to call it medium
whats the size of the reel, style of fishing focused and rod used?
its clear to me that you want to cast 1oz lures and going after kingfish (considering your nickname) Seriola Lalandi and have enough stopping power, but not sure if would be jigging, with poppers or small metals
Very nice whiffle spools. I'm impressed. Especially the aluminum spacer.
Wynflon sounds sort of like LPS-1 which is also a "dry lube". I like it better than Hot Sauce or TSI-321. But, anything you put on a bearing is going to shorten the free spin time and the free spin time is correlated to casting distance (all else being equal).
Bearing seals will help protect from flying debris but may actually help wick liquids into the bearing. If an open bearing gets wet it will sling off the water in a few minutes unless there are lubricants present. If water and lubricant come together inside a bearing it will be whipped into a thick emulsion that ruins performance and can be removed only by solvents and flushing.
I'm sold on bearings run dry. Even stainless steel bearings can be run dry to good effect. The stainless is soft and subject to pitting and corrosion but stainless bearings can be replaced at little cost. Hybrid ceramic is somewhat more expensive but cast well. I haven't worn out a set of hybrid ceramic bearings yet and cannot attest to their longevity. Full ceramic is much more expensive and performance even better. I am trying to wear them out now but there are limits to how much time can be spent casting.
Grease and oil can migrate around inside the reel especially when near the spool flange and spool shaft. The inside of the pinion is particularly noteworthy. If you're not careful, lubricants will move and contaminate the bearing. I've been using a flux brush to paint a thin coat of Yamaha grease on things that must have lubrication. If it's plastic and doesn't need grease then its not painted.
-steve
Quote from: steelfish on July 19, 2016, 08:16:00 PM
that looks awesome but Im kind of loss on the size of the reel to call it medium
whats the size of the reel, style of fishing focused and rod used?
its clear to me that you want to cast 1oz lures and going after kingfish (considering your nickname) Seriola Lalandi and have enough stopping power, but not sure if would be jigging, with poppers or small metals
The reel and size is a Grandwave 40 -
The lightest I have thrown with the reel so far is just under 1oz with a 1-4oz rod that is 10.6ft long. I have also used it with a Century and a Purglas to get it really screaming on the field.
No jigging is done with the reel. Nearly all the fishing is Spinning/Casting from the side of mountains to fish swimming by.
Most of the gear used is metal spoons and plastic plugs/poppers which have weights from 1oz up to 5oz. The only other activity I use the reel for is casting practice, I'm a bit of a field caster in the winter months.
What I have found is that using a larger multiplier for casting practice is way quicker on retrieval and more user friendly than a small abu , akios or daiwa type tourney casters. With a bigger reel one seems to get more casts into a session than when using a small reel , this is due to the faster retrieval.
The standard reel has enough stopping power and this concept seems to be able to pay line out at its original drag specification. There has been no modification to the drag apart from carbon discs being installed.
My one concern was that the line capacity reducers(aluminium spacers) would shift under drag loads. This Has not happened during tugging on some rugby posts or my van in the street in front of my house. ;D
My neighbours think I'm nuts.
Some reading -
Wiffle spool info
http://japantackle.com/tackle_topics/drill_spool.htm
http://japantackle.com/tackle_topics/drill_spool_2.htm
http://japantackle.com/tackle_topics/brake_system.htm
Thanks for the photos of your project. Wow, I thought I was crazy? ??? You went to the extreme for sure, Theres always more room at the front of the pack! You wanted it, you did it, you got it. Great Job.
This is what makes this AT Forum better and better! ;D
Thanks gstours - you welcome.
I hope you get to use one one day , that's why I posted it :)
Do you use wiffle spool bass reels ?
What large/med multipliers do you prefer ?
If you don't mind me asking .
Here's another spool I drilled .
http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=102967&forum_id=62
Quote from: seriola on July 21, 2016, 05:59:41 PM
Here's another spool I drilled .
http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=102967&forum_id=62
wow.. I own a FTH 40LD2 and really can tell this was a really brave move.
awesome, please post your experience on this reel after some time using it an catching big Jacks
;D - no prob
Way cool but probably vast overkill for fishing 1- 3oz lures. I could see it if you wanted to cast 1/4 oz lures or tiny bait.
Excellent work. Very sharp looking too!!
............Lou
Wow, just caught this thread, that is some dam fine work, got me thinking about Abu spools now, and modifying them to be lighter for a client.
I wonder if a fabric like Gortex could somehow be attached inside the spool to provide a spray shield of sorts to help protect the bearings from water? Sure, it would add a little weight, but it would keep a lot of water out.
Just a thought. Would like to have a play with this concept one day.
This is seriously impressive work.
This is all nice and cool 8) But how do you balance the spool ?
Marc..
Quote from: Marcq on July 22, 2016, 04:52:53 AM
This is all nice and cool 8) But how do you balance the spool ?
Marc..
Inspiring question - I will start a Tutorial and hopefully answer your ? in detail ,
the basic answer is accuracy.
I think computer aided cutting would give the best results ofcourse but the above pictures is proof that it can be done with basic stuff ,time and patience after planning.
eg: My lathe is a drill press that I lie on its side , it wobbles a lot . I take the centre of the spool down with a large bastard file ;D
No special tools apart from a digital vernier and two eyeballs.
Thanks M :)
i'll begin the tutorial in the relevant section in the next few days.
A bit of a how to, would be great. Look forward to seeing it.
Quote from: Rothmar2 on July 22, 2016, 10:54:19 AM
A bit of a how to, would be great. Look forward to seeing it.
x2 :)
Definitely impressive stuff. Especially coming off a wobbly horizontal drill press. :o Looking forward to more.
- the wobbler -
(http://i67.tinypic.com/ea1hc1.jpg)
Am I seeing this correctly, did you put that drill press on its side? Great idea!
I'm a fan of looks on that spool, but not functionality.
If used hard on saltwater and didn't strip the complete reel down afterwards, you could easily damage some parts, might do better on reels with bushings :-\.
Just speculation on my part, since I never used anything as such.
Still, I'm enjoying your post.
Nice job!
Sal
Yes Alto Mare ,you are seeing correctly.
That is a small drill press lying on its side with the adjustable table being used to accommodate the "tailstock spindle".
The piece of aluminium clamped to the table has a hole drilled into it to hold the keyless chuck which is from a broken electric hand drill.
Your speculation is spot on - a maintenance plan is crucial - full ceramic bearings might help too. ;D
Thanks for the comp.
Thanks form showing us how you did your project. The pictures of the tailstock spindle, opened my eyes ::) I got to thinking again! :'(
We can all learn things, BUT i do know a few people who know it all!! ???
Do keep doing what you like! Sometime I wonder what people might think with my projects then I think about those Write Bros....... PHOOYY! ;) Just saw another jet go by!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Seriola that is a really cool piece of work on the spool.....one suggestion for the live tail stock....maybe drill the aluminum block and mount a spool bearing in the block....might have to counter sink the hole to accommodate the spool shaft......might help the wobbling......Bill
Collapsed Under 60lb 0.70mm Mono -
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2h6wq5u.jpg)
Only one section of 1 of the platforms deformed .
(http://i67.tinypic.com/1t6j9k.jpg)
Gotta say that the platform strength exceeded my expectations as initially I was not convinced that it would hold up with tightly spooled 50lb 832 braid. it might have contributed though = ;D
(http://i66.tinypic.com/opb4ac.jpg)
I think stretch vs no stretch also played a part .
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2q3t4i9.jpg)
A Quick removal of the platforms and a stripping of the paint from the spool - And its good to start the rebuild
(http://i66.tinypic.com/a5gheu.jpg)
This was the heaviest mono I have tested so far as a backing for the braids I have been using. I thought I would try a 10 lb suffix so I needed a mono to fill the gap.
I decided to use the 60lb 0.70mm (double xx rainbow) under the 10lb as a logical next step in the max line test for the spool.
All braid used was suffix 832 and all spooling was done as tight as possible .
the 20lb 832 had 30lb mono under it.
the 30 lb 832 had 50lb mono under it
And the 50lb braid was spooled top to bottom with no mono under it.
None of these combos gave problems or showed signs of problems .
The 50lb braid setup was spooled as tight as possible and left for many days spooled up with no issues .
Apart from being Surprised by most of the results, I have been wondering what would make this wiffle spool collapse.
At this point 60lbs seems to be a A positive result - ;D
but realistic testing would probably have collapsed it with lower breaking strain mono. The next platforms will be subjected to a more stringent collapse plan in order to get some better results in that regard.
after some casting -
(http://i66.tinypic.com/15drqmp.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/zu5avk.jpg)
Thanks TARFU.
- Gonna take your advice and give it a go.
Thanks for sharing. Curious to see how you did the indexing for drilling the holes on the spool.
Quote from: Rothmar2 on July 23, 2016, 09:32:26 PM
Thanks for sharing. Curious to see how you did the indexing for drilling the holes on the spool.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/jqmdle.jpg)
The pattern was made simply by placing the holes as evenly away from each other as possible. Also the idea was to drill as many holes as possible but still keep some strength in the sidewall. No - calculations have been done.
The holes on the spools lip or flange I drilled first. I made a jig and drilled as even as possible after using an Automatic Center Punch . The gaps in between them range from 2.5mm to 2.95mm.(red arrows)
The other holes have been drilled in order of the numbers allocated from 1 being first to number 5 being last.
the Small holes have a diameter of 3.5mm and the large have a diameter of 6.5mm.
I tried to space the holes as evenly as possible, this is what created the pattern. It is far from even and accurate but it worked , so I tried to replicate it on the other side of the spool.
The two sides do not line up - but they should if done accurately by hand or computer. I winged it and and It worked out. I'm sure it has lots of room for improvement .
Different hole positions can allow for more holes and lower spool weights aswell as different line platform heights.
Some rebuild pics -
(http://i65.tinypic.com/28iuekh.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2vaei6s.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/10ehqwn.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/bfpcsm.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/28ap3rk.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2d92wxs.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/21e57wm.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/ea5yq1.jpg)
Really nice.....Bill
Thanks Bill -
Here is another prototype I have made. It is much easier to produce with basic tools.
The results are good too. Although the accuracy of the drilling is not perfect. The line platform is Lighter and very strong with little to no flex in the Carbon rods.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/9kcdmw.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/97ihr8.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2uhvatx.jpg)
Solid 2mm carbon fibre rods from an RC supply store -
Spool used: Okuma CV45CS identical capacity to SL50SH
This is amazing work, thank you so much for sharing.
If looks are what it's about,I think this one is nicer! ;)
Am looking forward to seeing this spool in action.
60lb test – This is the same line that collapsed the aluminium platform/line capacity reducer in the pics above almost immediately whilst I was spooling it up.
The 2mm carbon rods have been secured on the ends with super glue .
50lb braid did not cause any flexion so I moved onto to testing the 60lb mono.
The spool is still filled with the line , intact and will be left until it fails.
This is way above the line class it would be used with and is an attempt at a max line rating test ...
It was spooled up as tight as possible by hand. I tried to exceed the pressure used in the previous test which caused the collapse.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2en9cuq.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2gv0qv5.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/167tg7n.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/519a91.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2dvpky.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2ns2s6v.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/9jiov9.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/180wzs.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2irme5l.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2ue0293.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/16adtox.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/20u4bnr.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/4t6g6v.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2mpg41i.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2gv0qv5.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/167tg7n.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/23scjkp.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2dvpky.jpg)
Randy sold me a similar spool a while back, but that one could take a lot more abuse. I understand the concept and makes sense to me, but mine doesn't have as much weight reduction... that might be a good thing.
You could see the spool in one of the pics here:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=14558.msg149380#msg149380
Sal
In regards to mono putting pressure on the spool, light test mono will put more pressure on the spool than heavy mono because it stretches more, and there will be many more turns around the spool. Its the stretched mono trying to return to its original length that squeezes the spool.
That is very ingenious seriola. It is a good idea even if the design cannot handle a lot of pressure. The line capacity is such that it would only be suitable for light lines and small game anyway so it may not need to be very strong.
I agree with Three7's about the lighter mono building up more pressure in the spool.
I'm sure you have seen the old ABU and Shakespeare plastic spacers that snap onto the metal spool arbor.
-steve
Quote from: Three se7ens on August 13, 2016, 07:36:50 PM
In regards to mono putting pressure on the spool, light test mono will put more pressure on the spool than heavy mono because it stretches more, and there will be many more turns around the spool. Its the stretched mono trying to return to its original length that squeezes the spool.
Never even though of it from that perspective...but you're 100% right...the lighter the line the more it stretches.
Great responses - Thank you
Spool has not collapsed this morning, so I am going to go down to lighter mono and try to stretch it as much as possible as I put it on the spool to see what the results are .
Does Anyone have a picture of the Plastic reducers that Abu manufactured ? - I unfortunately have not seen them , even after a brief search -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-New-Old-Stock-Abu-Garcia-Ambassadeur-3000-4000-FISHING-Reel-Spool-Arbor-8591-/121931093062?hash=item1c63a8d446:g:FXsAAOSwxp9W70Pb (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-New-Old-Stock-Abu-Garcia-Ambassadeur-3000-4000-FISHING-Reel-Spool-Arbor-8591-/121931093062?hash=item1c63a8d446:g:FXsAAOSwxp9W70Pb)
For those of us who are not as talented, the traditional way of doing it is to wrap the spool with a strip of cork gasket material.
-steve
Hello All -
After a little absence I have got back into the Workshop and onto some old shelved projects.
For Those that are interested , Here is the start of more to come .
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=24482.msg273823#msg273823
glad to have you back!!!!!