I'm interested in stories and or opinions on the jigmaster platform. First assuming one is utalizing all SS internal upgrades, SS sleeve, bridge, double dogs, SS main & pinion, and pumped up drag, has anyone experienced frame twist and or failure associated with the factory 4 screw cross braces? Are the one piece Tiburon or Accurate frames a nacesity when pushing the jigmaster to its limits, I.e. Up to 20ish lbs of drag?
I mainly plan to troll for salmon with the 500 but occasionally I have had ling and halibut hit. Luckily they have been small so it has been no issue. I would like to think that if I get into something large like a big halibut, I could potentially bring her on in and not damaging the reel. Would I be crazy to target halibut with a pumped up jigmaster runing say 60lb braid?
Lastly I'm aware that there are probably much more capable reels for my application but there is just something so enjoyable and cool for me personally when I'm fishing something I had a part in modifiying or putting together. It probably sounds rediculous but it adds to the joy of being out on the water. Oh and the jigmaster seams to have the most potential for improvements and modifications through the aftermarket so this is the reason I'm interested in the 500 platform.
Thanks and I look forward to hearing some of your stories!
Trevor.
Trevor, a 500 as you describe would handle all fish you describe...Bill
I would recommend a 501 for what you are doing. The 501 will not twist as bad as a 500 but I would also put 505 bars or a solid frame on it just in case a large butt decides hit your gear. I have caught butt up to around 60# on unmodified 209 and 10 reels, but it was not easy.
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 20, 2017, 07:13:41 PM
The Jigmaster seems to have the most potential for improvements and modifications through the aftermarket so this is the reason I'm interested in the 500 platform.
Not trying to change your mind or anything, but maybe you just haven't seen all the Senator 113H aftermarket goodies. It's well suited to trolling...and a very strong reel in
stock form...let alone in beast mode! ;) Lee is right, the 501 will do surprisingly well even with stock posts, if the Tib frame makes your wallet groan. Good luck with your project and post a report! 8)
Quote from: mo65 on March 20, 2017, 08:06:23 PM
maybe you just haven't seen all the Senator 113H aftermarket goodies.
The 113H is better as a butt reel but a bit large for salmon. I occasionally use a 112H for salmon but my go to salmon reel when I lived in Ketchikan was a Penn 10. I usually use Calcutta a 401TE, a Trinidad 12, and ABU 5601s for Oregon salmon but when I am feeling old school I use a Surfmaster 100 (with Newell bars or Tib Frame and 5 CF washer drag) or Monofil 27 (with a 5 CF washer drag).
Quote from: Keta on March 20, 2017, 08:35:49 PM
Quote from: mo65 on March 20, 2017, 08:06:23 PM
maybe you just haven't seen all the Senator 113H aftermarket goodies.
The 113H is better as a butt reel but a bit large for salmon. I occasionally use a 112H for salmon but my go to salmon reel when I lived in Ketchikan was a Penn 10. I usually use Calcutta a 401TE, a Trinidad 12, and ABU 5601s for Oregon salmon but when
I am feeling old school I use a Surfmaster 100 (with Newell bars or Tib Frame and 5 CF washer drag) or Monofil 27 (with a 5 CF washer drag).
8) 8)
Trevor, You can have the best of both worlds.
A Pro gear 541 is a jigmaster 500 with 113h Gears, drag, and spool shaft. You can get a decent one for around $150 and go kill anything that hits your line.
Randy Pauly is your guy if you decide to go that route.
Here are 3 pro gear 541's, and far left is a jigmaster 500 that cost me $450 to build.....All 3 pro gear 541's combined cost less than that jigmaster. The Pro gear will not twist with one piece frame. This would be the perfect reel for any surprise visit from a barn door or a monster ling cod.
-Ted
Hmmmmm, that is interesting Ted. Then I should have invested in three Pro-Gear reels instead of the Jig master I built. To late!
Joe
Interesting!
Ted I've tried to locate a nice 541 but can't seem to find one with a clicker. If I'm going to spend the money the clicker is important to me.
As of now I'm taking a Penn 250 with Tib frame and 500 aluminum spool in on a trade. I'm contemplating converting it to a 500 with Cortez side plates and then running the SS main/ pinion, SS sleeve, double dog SS bridge and Bryan's drag stack upgrade. Also have a 500sl in immaculate condition so I've thought about leving it stock looking because it's so pretty but upgrading it to all SS internals.
Just weighing my options.
Really appreciate the responses!
Deep down id like to fight a monster butt on a 500...I know... I've got problems ;D
Respect Ted. Finally someone is listening to you because I've been saying it for years here.
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 20, 2017, 09:21:00 PM
As of now I'm taking a Penn 250 with Tib frame and 500 aluminum spool in on a trade. I'm contemplating converting it to a 500 with Cortez side plates and then running the SS main/ pinion, SS sleeve, double dog SS bridge and Bryan's drag stack upgrade.
Deep down id like to fight a monster butt on a 500...I know... I've got problems ;D
I am not sure if there are SS 13-140 pinion and 5-60 main gears
A stock 500/250 would work for butt if the depth is not too deep, the 250 a bit better for butt. For what you are doing a hotrod 250 would also work.
Quote from: Bryan Young on March 20, 2017, 09:37:19 PM
Respect Ted. Finally someone is listening to you because I've been saying it for years here.
Some of us heard you Bryan. 8) But a lot of things bear repeating.
But, and it's a big but (butt), if you are actually going to fish the reel...his original plan to add a Tib frame and drag upgrade to a 500 is all that's needed. Sounds like he's local to us, and I've never caught any salmon or butt in these waters that a Jigmaster w/65lb braid wouldn't knock down.
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 20, 2017, 09:21:00 PM
Also have a 500sl in immaculate condition so I've thought about leving it stock looking because it's so pretty but upgrading it to all SS internals.
Deep down id like to fight a monster butt on a 500...I know... I've got problems ;D
That might be a cool idea keeping the outside stock. My Jigmaster is a "sleeper build" too! I used all SS parts and Pro Challengers DD bridge, but the outside is bone stock. The only thing you have to watch is the really heavy drag settings...Bryan's 5-stack or the new style gear/drag washer sets from Pro Challenger can make enough power to get you into trouble if you don't pay attention. 8)
Lee, can you elaborate more on the 250 build? I was under the impression that the 250 has smaller gearing, smaller drag washers, and no stainless gear options? Actually I thought I read somewhere that a steel main is a factory option but hard to find? I like the idea of a hot rod 250!
Trevor
Nice, that's a looker!
So after reading your reply, it sounds like the stock 4 screw cross braces might not be up to fishing heavy drag settings that a modded 500 with all the upgrades can put out?
Quote from: mo65 on March 20, 2017, 10:41:02 PM
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 20, 2017, 09:21:00 PM
Also have a 500sl in immaculate condition so I've thought about leving it stock looking because it's so pretty but upgrading it to all SS internals.
Deep down id like to fight a monster butt on a 500...I know... I've got problems ;D
That might be a cool idea keeping the outside stock. My Jigmaster is a "sleeper build" too! I used all SS parts and Pro Challengers DD bridge, but the outside is bone stock. The only thing you have to watch is the really heavy drag settings...Bryan's 5-stack or the new style gear/drag washer sets from Pro Challenger can make enough power to get you into trouble if you don't pay attention. 8)
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 21, 2017, 12:56:59 AM
So after reading your reply, it sounds like the stock 4 screw cross braces might not be up to fishing heavy drag settings that a modded 500 with all the upgrades can put out?
Well, not that it won't work, but I think most folks would agree it's on the ceiling of it's capability. For the heavy lifting an aluminum frame would be best. Also your interest in the 250 is a good thing...the #5-60 gear's ratio of 3:1 is great for lifting. True it's a smaller gear...less drag surface area...but with a 5 stack it will produce 15-18lbs. of smooth drag. Also true no stainless version I know of...but Penn's steel versions are easy to find. Their moly coated version is my favorite.
Here's a pic of my 259/99 Live Bait Caster with that gear...it produced 19lbs. max drag.
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 21, 2017, 12:54:01 AM
Lee, can you elaborate more on the 250 build? I was under the impression that the 250 has smaller gearing, smaller drag washers, and no stainless gear options? Actually I thought I read somewhere that a steel main is a factory option but hard to find? I like the idea of a hot rod 250!
Trevor
Steel but not SS 13-140 and 5-60 gears are around, someone here might have a spare set. The 5-60 main gear is smaller than the 5-500 main gear of the Jigmaster. The 250 is 3:1 the 500 is 4:1 so you have more torque with the 250. The 250 side plates fit 500/501 frames. I have a 250N with a Tib 501 frame, SS grear sleve, SS AR dog, 5+1 drag set and Keta Krank. I can convert it to a 99 width in a minute by taking 500 side plate off the 99 width frame and putting the 250 side plate on.
That Cortez Conversion jigmaster kit with the frame and side plates should fit the bill and it comes in 3 widths. I have the 99 size with all the upgrades,couldn't be happier. A lot of ways to skin that cat.
The Cortez Classic kit comes with a frame & side plates. The regular Cortez Jig kit is with side plates only. Some of the hardware is included in both kits. Rudy
I love my Cortez jigmaster.
Sorry, I have too many to fit in a pic. ;D ;D
Mo65 your picture is tempting me! I have not received the 250 yet so maybe I'll get lucky and it will have a steel main. Never heard of a moly coated gear, do you have a link so I can learn more?
Does the 500 and 250 take the same bridge and sleeve? If so I could run a full SS setup with the 250 steel factory gear, that would be tanked?
I guess another option too would be to run the Cortez 500 plates with a full SS 500 setup on the 250 and then run a Keta Krank on the long setting to try and make up some of the lost power from the 500s 4:1s.
I appreciate you responding, I'm also enjoying the pics,
Trevor
Quote from: mo65 on March 21, 2017, 01:16:28 AM
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 21, 2017, 12:56:59 AM
So after reading your reply, it sounds like the stock 4 screw cross braces might not be up to fishing heavy drag settings that a modded 500 with all the upgrades can put out?
Well, not that it won't work, but I think most folks would agree it's on the ceiling of it's capability. For the heavy lifting an aluminum frame would be best. Also your interest in the 250 is a good thing...the #5-60 gear's ratio of 3:1 is great for lifting. True it's a smaller gear...less drag surface area...but with a 5 stack it will produce 15-18lbs. of smooth drag. Also true no stainless version I know of...but Penn's steel versions are easy to find. Their moly coated version is my favorite.
Here's a pic of my 259/99 Live Bait Caster with that gear...it produced 19lbs. max drag.
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 21, 2017, 03:29:45 AM
Never heard of a moly coated gear, do you have a link so I can learn more?
Sal turned me on to the moly coated gears after I sanded through the coating on one...HA! Penn made several steel #5-60 gears through the years. Some appear to be bare steel, some are chromium plated, and some have the moly coating. It's a satin grey coating...resists rust and corrosion great...I don't thing I've ever seen one with finish damage. If your Surfmaster is an older model chances are it will have a steel main gear.
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 21, 2017, 03:29:45 AM
Does the 500 and 250 take the same bridge and sleeve?
The 500 and 250 take completely different bridges...but sleeve is the same for both. In order to have a double dog bridge on the 250 you'd have to fashion your own...something like I did on my narrowed 250: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=19281.0
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 21, 2017, 03:29:45 AM
I guess another option too would be to run the Cortez 500 plates with a full SS 500 setup on the 250 and then run a Keta Krank on the long setting to try and make up some of the lost power from the 500s 4:1s.
I think if you were to invest in Cortez plates you'd want to use a Cortez or Tiburon frame also. The stock 250 framework would defeat the strength of the aluminum plates. Your hotrod is only as strong as it's weakest link. Aluminum plates and frame are a full on "tank" build, where stock posts and stand will only suffice with a moderate build. Then there are a few more levels in between. The choice of bits and pieces determine where you'll end up power wise.
Here's a pic of the moly coated gear...this one is going in a Surfmaster 150 I'm working up. It will be one of those "moderate" powered upgrades...using a 4-stack drag setup...just about all the heat I like applying to stock posts and stand. 8)
Whichever way you decide to go, I'm sitting on a supply of steel gears for Squidder or Jjigmaster.
Quote from: Rancanfish on March 22, 2017, 01:33:28 AM
Whichever way you decide to go, I'm sitting on a supply of steel gears for Squidder or Jjigmaster.
Squidder takes the same gear as a 250 correct? I'd happily buy 2 of them from you. One for this 250 and one for a Long Beach 60? Wait those both take the 5-60 correct?
Trevor
I'll leave it up to you to verify which you need, but let me know by pm and we'll work something out.
Quote from: TongassFisher on March 22, 2017, 02:07:01 AM
Squidder takes the same gear as a 250 correct? I'd happily buy 2 of them from you. One for this 250 and one for a Long Beach 60? Wait those both take the 5-60 correct?
Trevor
The Squidder uses the 5-60 main gear too.