Frame project- new style- feedback please!

[Alto Mare]

Good work!   

  A frame for Penn Baymaster 180 and Monofil 27 reels would be nice.

I'm thinking more as a Squidder Magnum  and  Jigmaster Magnum , but the ones you've mentioned would also be good..

[Keta]

Good work!   

  A frame for Penn Baymaster 180 and Monofil 27 reels would be nice.

I'm thinking more as a Squidder Magnum  and  Jigmaster Magnum , but the ones you've mentioned would also be good..

The 349 always comes to my mind too.

[surfcaster]

I would like to second The 349 frame.
  Semper Fi, Richie

[jurelometer]

This is very interesting work. Keep us up to date as you progress. I fish a couple times a week offshore if you need to test the 220 but I don't have a deckhand rod or a cork puppy. A big red snapper on a 220 would be a great test with a 5 stack drag in it.

PM Sent

[jurelometer]

I like what you are doing. I have a bunch of deckhand rods with no reel seats and prefer them for 40 lb test or less with star drag reels. Spreading the load with a four screw clamp seems like a good idea. The Penn 320 frame, with the integrated side plate reminds me of a Pro Gear style frame. After viewing your Newell 220, my guess is that Carl Newell would probably approve. Your (Newell version) design applied to a Penn 501 would be lighter and more rigid than the multiple piece frame now in use. Thanks for posting your thoughts and photos.  

Thanks-

I'm thinking a 501 sized frame might be a good choice.   It would definitely make a nice kayak reel.
Do you think Carl  (or should I say Mr Newell)  would still approve after the "Russian military gear" reference?

I'm in for a 320 frame

As mentioned before,  I personally am not too excited a bout the 320 kit.  Here are some of the issues.

end to end to spindle is very long  compared to the width of the spool.  This makes for some fat sideplates on a kit.
-the dog and the eccentric hardware stick out from the very large bridge plate- which is already wider the the spool.
- the tension knob design is pretty bad- it does not hold in place very well-I think the thread size is too coarse and the fit too loose.
- it looks to me like the pinion does not engage the full length of the main gear teeth.  

Fixing the issues to make a smaller reel would require a lot of new parts, and the main gear -pinion junction would still be the weak link.  (Mr Tani recommended around 20 lb drag max).  The original frame should probably handle a a load that will wreck the main gear.

The kit I prototyped would reuse the existing parts and right sideplate (cant make a new sideplate with the old parts much smaller anyways),  But in the end you still have a reel that is pretty close in external size to the original 320.  Maybe more "interesting" looking- but that i not the goal for me.

So the updated 320 wouldn't be much smaller or much stronger than the original.   Better off just removing the levelwind and ending up with the same performance, and almost the  same size as a kit.    Any of the other options would be more expensive than a new star drag reel of equal/better performance.    At least this is how I see it.  The reel repair pros might have a better opinion.

-J.

[jurelometer]

Dave, i believe you are on the right track and hope that you will make it happen.
I have been so discouraged by graphite reels on conventional and spinners, that I will usually just walk away from them.
After reading your detailed explanation, you definitely made me think about it twice.
I'm not sure you've seen some of my comments circulating here around the forum, as you, I also don't like aluminum, too many issues to deal with.
Yes they look the best when anodized, but after some serious use they will start to show problems.
The problems are many, as chips/nick that could cut your line, stripped screws, lose bearings and the biggest problem of all, corrosion and so on.
Most manufacturers instead of dealing with the problem with Graphite cracking under stress in some cases, it appears they just dropped it and moved on to something easier to deal with.
Having the two choices, I went ahead and pushed Black Pearl into making us some stainless steel parts, yes they would be heavier, but as for strength and durability, I don't see anything at the moment out there that could beat it.

Dave, after numerous conversations with you and seeing what you could do, if anyone could pull this off... it's you.

Good luck to you!

Sal

Hi Sal,


YES ON THE MAGNUMS!!! (Sorry for shouting)  As we have discussed,  I think a Penn based magnum-like kit (using the guts of a larger reel with a smaller reel's frame and sideplate) is the best enhancement that we don't have yet.  Properly designed, it could use current left sideplates and frames, possibly even right side plates made for the smaller reels [correction - should be right sideplate from the larger reel with an adaptor plate].  What is mostly needed is a spool with a spindle that has a slight alteration.  If we used the narrow versions (146, 501) it would be right-sized for spectra capacity compared to the strength of the reels-  We would basically have new  reels that were very competitive feature wise, that were built almost entirely from community (us!) sourced components, but still compatible with Penn parts.

If folks preferred Accurate, Tiburon or Cortez frames, Black Pearl sidebars/gears/bridges,Alan T's, Keta's, Adam's parts,  or even some of my stuff, they could mix and match as they choose, along with Penn replacement parts.

If there is some interest I can start another thread on this topic somewhere in the Penn forums.   Need to think of a different name than magnum- since  that is a former  Accurate product, and not quite what we are doing.  

Re Al vs. plastic vs stainless:  

Can't agree with you more.  The best description I saw of anodizing is that it is like an eggshell.   The shell is hard, but underneath it is soft, so impacts will damage the finish, and then you get corrosion...

I think the big problem with graphite was that they did not redesign to accommodate the materials.    For example a spinning reel with a clamp foot like my design,  and a wider I-beam neck would be much stronger, but would look too "different"  - they want the low end reels to look like the high end metal reels.    In the end, the manufacturers are mostly in in the business of catching fisherman, not fish.   And just like fish- we tend to bite on something nice and shiny but familiar looking  


Corrosion is the biggest unsolved problem in saltwater reels, and we have the materials to do something about it.

I think you and Alan C. are on the right track- Stainless bars make much more sense for a reel with a foot.  I think that is closer to  what most people want, and it makes the reel stronger and more corrosion resistant.  I think my footless frame will be an uphill battle.

Good work!    

 A frame for Penn Baymaster 180 and Monofil 27 reels would be nice.

I'm thinking more as a Squidder Magnum  and  Jigmaster Magnum , but the ones you've mentioned would also be good..

The 349 always comes to my mind too.
[/quote]

Thanks!

Providing me  a DXF file with the frame hole patterns, frame width and spool diameter goes a long way to moving a particular reel toward the top of the list.   Would like some squidder and jigmaster data well.  Any volunteers?

I would want some success on smaller reel frames before considering a 349.  That is one tall  reel.    Not sure who else would be interested.

-J.

[Ron Jones]

For me the benefit of your 320 kit would be the open top. Alan says it is the best bang for your buck size wise in the GT line and I agree. An open top, non level wind frame would make this thing a fantastic 60# reel even with the factory gears and drag, and the spool is perfect for 60# braid.
Ron

[doradoben]

jurelometer, I'd never thought of a Newell reel as "Russian military gear" but your comment puts it in a new light for me, at least. They are no nonsense, fully serviceable, simple, have high parts interchangeability between series, without many major design changes from inception until Mr. Newell's passing. This was the complete opposite of some other manufacturers business strategy  of planned obsolescence.

Maybe of interest to you. The photo is of an aftermarket clamp by Accurate to attach their (footed) reels to a deckhand style rod. They seem to be on board with you about using multiple fasteners.


       http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_BstfBe7ZzRA/SLyfFWeJDyI/AAAAAAAAAMo/ogmiXc_0qUE/s1600/NewAccurateClamp3.jpg