alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial 330 gti
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 25, 2021, 10:51:24 AM *
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FatTuna
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« Reply #30 on: October 12, 2017, 11:45:53 PM »

I've owned both the GTi and the GT2. The GTi I had came with a black handle arm. The GT2 came with a silver handle arm with a flat rubberized knob. The later Chinese version of the GT2 came with a silver handle arm and an oval knob.

Up to you want to add the levelwind. Should work fine without it. I'd look at how much the parts will cost and then determine if it's worth it. You might be able to buy a decent used one on Ebay for close to the same price as the parts. $40 plus shipping is a fair price for one but I've bought them for as low as $25 before.

Personally, I just use paper towels to wipe down the drag washers and then I apply Cal's original drag grease. Then wipe off the excess. If they look worn, I just replace them.   
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handi2
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« Reply #31 on: October 12, 2017, 11:48:15 PM »

I just looked myself and the 320 shows one screw. Ive never thought about it.

With those reels ive seen the worst looking gears and drags. Many, many, main gears with the drags corroded in to where you have to soak the whole thing and dig them out. The metal washers are rusted to the main gear and HT-100ís.

I used them for many years for Gulf bottom fishing. Great Red Snapper reels.

Keith
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handi2
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« Reply #32 on: October 13, 2017, 12:06:43 AM »

If the drag washers are hard and have a glaze on them throw them away. If they are still slightly soft rub them on a cotton towel. The cotton towel helps scrub the old black carbon off.

If you replace them use Carbontex from Smooth Drag. They wil last longer than the HT-100ís.

(Sorry Mo)
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« Reply #33 on: October 13, 2017, 02:48:52 AM »

thanks Keith and Ftuna....very helpful...mine has a black handle and I guess the 1 screw in the left plate was lucky after looking at way too many schematics...no readable markings on the reel....the metal washers cleaned up like new and the ht100 or carbontex look pretty good..will try the cotton cloth before loading with cals...still wondering how to cast a free spool reel but will give it a try when all together....also found a couple of squidder 140 on ebay for cheap and hopefully get one really good one out of the two....Love taking these apart and cleaning etc....think I found a bug like most of you...
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handi2
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« Reply #34 on: December 07, 2017, 10:46:42 PM »

I finished a couple of them that the guy uses them for King Mackerel fishing in his charter business. I guess thats OK for people that donít really know what to do.

Anyway, the only problem with one of them is the plastic bushing on the worm gear got so hot it swelled and the reel was hard to turn. It must have been a big fish that didnt want to come to the boat.

Keith

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mo65
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« Reply #35 on: May 17, 2019, 12:09:33 AM »

   I got a message from Brett(bhale1) and he said he had a 330GTi, a little rough and needing a few parts, but I could have it if I wanted it. Heck yes! A few days later it arrived. I didn't think it looked so bad...worn but not trashed...so I opened her up.
   The first thing I noticed was these two busted parts. The idler gear only had that one tooth shaved off,(circled in red) but the spool gear click ratchet was missing half it's teeth.(circled in blue) A few other levelwind parts were missing too.




   I made an order from Mystic...this thing will live again!



   This is the bearing on the bridge that the boss said was tough to get out. I see why...it's staked! I just popped the shield, squirted it clean, and oiled.



   The gear sleeve looked great, no deformation at the handle end. It fit the post great too, no shimming needed on this one.



   The spool had a little corrosion, but I think we can "vinegarize" that away.



   Like it never even happened...



   I've seen folks mention these reels generally have really corroded gears and drags. I guess I got lucky, the pic below is how they came out of the reel. Look close...there's a small bit of white corrosion in the drags.



   I washed and dried the drags, smeared on the Cal's, and slapped her back together.



   The reel is operating smoothly, the drag is strong, and the levelwind works great. Thanks again Brett! Cool



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foakes
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« Reply #36 on: May 17, 2019, 12:48:35 AM »

Perfectly done, Mike!

Best,

Fred
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« Reply #37 on: May 17, 2019, 01:55:33 AM »

Hi

I have a 330GTI, never fished, that came with HT-100 drags. I have given it the Alan Tani's treatment and slapped Cal's grease on the drags. Works like a charm.

Thinking about loading it with 100# JB's solid braid and short 80# fluorcarbon leader for groupers or any other bottom fish.

Questions:
1. Is this a good reel for this purpose?
2. How much drag should I safely expect from this reel without causing damage to it?

Thank you
Jo„o
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RowdyW
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« Reply #38 on: May 17, 2019, 02:16:37 AM »

It'll work for small groupers but if your looking to hook into a good sized Red or Black Grouper & you have to have a levelwind then it would be better to move up to a 340 or 345. If you happen to hook into a Warsaw or a Golith your way undergunned. For big Grouper you don't need a levelwind just a 114, 114h, or a tanked 113h. The 330GTI makes a nice snapper reel. I wouldn't use more then a 50# leader.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2019, 02:19:52 AM by RowdyW » Logged
Ron Jones
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« Reply #39 on: May 17, 2019, 02:23:04 AM »

ALan says in the 320 thread that the gears and frame are good for 20#s at most. I'd think you would be fine fishing it at 80#. The most important thing to doing it safe is properly lubed drags. Smooth is your friend.
Ron Jones
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Ronald Jones
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Joao Tavares
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« Reply #40 on: May 17, 2019, 02:51:25 AM »

Thank you guys.

The biggest I expect around here may be a 50# grouper or a red snapper, at around 300ft of water depth.

Jo„o
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bhale1
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« Reply #41 on: May 17, 2019, 05:22:07 AM »

Ahhhh yes, knew you would get her up and running! She found a good home...those catfish better beware!!!
Brett
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