alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial how to save a newell bearing cup
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: how to save a newell bearing cup  (Read 18338 times)
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alantani
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« on: March 26, 2014, 03:10:53 PM »

how to save a newell bearing cup

normally these get tossed, but they are getting fewer and fewer.  you can't throw these away anymore, so we have to get these rusted bearings out and put new ones in.  you can pull all you want.  it will never come out unless you loosen it first. 



first, vise grips for the base.  do not touch the threads.



next, get a dremel with a cutting wheel. 



cut a slot straight across the top.  don't be shy, you may have cut deep. 



next, find a screwdriver blade that fits the slot.  get out a file and make one if you have to.  file it down to size so that it fits squarely in the slot with no play.



if it doesn't fit perfectly, file it down until it does.  the outer edges of the blade have to reach both sides of the outer race but not touch the bearing cup.  now give it a twist!



feel it give and twist it just a little.  adding a penetrating oil and letting it soak overnight is fine, but i never have that kind of time.  when i come across a problem like this, it needs to be resolved immediately. 



ok, NOW you can flood it with oil. 



i use my little electric screwdriver and spin for a good 10-20 seconds.



now you can use a pair of needle nose pliers or wire cutters and pull it right out.  congratulations, you just saved a newell bearing cup. 



the original post and discussion can be found at http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10238.0
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Newell Nut
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« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2014, 04:05:20 PM »

Nice job and save Alan.

I have carbide router bits for my dremel and they can eat a slot on each side of the bearing real easy. Just another way to skin a cat.
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Caranx
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« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2014, 05:52:11 AM »

Great info!
Never would have thought about it.
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anglingarchitect
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« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2014, 04:43:33 PM »

You have more skill and definitely more patience than me, I tend to beat things beyond recognition when they don't bend to my will, and then throw them away or keep them for parts only.

This is a fine example of why I sent my two J variance reels to you, one you may recall was particularly problematic, I disassembled and reassembled that sucker several times over two weekends, and it wouldn't work. Finally took it to a local reel repair man who kept taking it apart and putting it back together again, just would't work. Every thing worked till you put it totally back together Huh?. After that I sent it to Alan, he said it had a machining issue, which he of course repaired so it worked flawlessly.

I'm a new comer but I love this place. Grin
« Last Edit: May 14, 2014, 12:43:40 PM by anglingarchitect » Logged
Newell Nut
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« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2014, 06:16:08 PM »

Something new to learn here every day. The more you play with reels the more it gets second nature.
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Newell Nut
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« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2014, 11:16:22 AM »

I had two seized bearings in the R631 that I recently purchased here. The pics show my method of saving the cups. First I remove the o rings. Clamp in a vise and then start to cut away the bearing with a Dremel with a carbide bit. The center part gets chewed up pretty good. Then the out shell of the bearing is cut through on two sides as you see in one of them. The other one was almost cut through and the heat loosened it enough to spin out.



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Alto Mare
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« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2014, 02:07:02 PM »

Great job buddy, just watch your fingers using those bits. A friend sent me a couple and they're nothing like the bits I've been using, mine you could touch with your hands and they won't cut you, those that you're showing mean business. Grin
If you run into another of those bad boys, send it over, I want to see if using just this puller will take care of it.
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
Newell Nut
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« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2014, 02:53:17 PM »

Thanks Sal, those carbide router bits do some serious eating and are very tough. They are made for industrial routers for manufacturing parts that need little cutouts. I think I have only broken one in ten years. My dremel is one with the long flexible shaft and easy to operate in tight spots.
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Fishit 2
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« Reply #8 on: June 19, 2014, 04:38:59 AM »

Should you be able to pull the bearing out easily in a cup that isn't rusted? On my 338 only one side came out easily the other I just left it in and gave it a cleaning with lighter fluid before relubing and reinstalling.
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Newell Nut
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« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2014, 02:17:52 PM »

If not rusted they can be tight but will come out. You know the medium sized black binder clips with the heavy chrome wire handles. I use one of those handles and a pair of pliers for most of them. You just have to file the bent end short enough to get in the bearing opening and pull hard.

If you don't need to change a bearing just put some TSI 321 on it and go. Also clean the ID of the Pinion gear and put TSI 321 in that and your spool should spin nice. Greasy pinions kill spool spin speed.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2014, 02:25:32 PM by Newell Nut » Logged
vilters
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« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2015, 06:28:39 PM »

thanks for those tips, i'll try that before I buy a bearing puller. I've got a bearing cup frozen it a sideplate. it won't turn at all. I'm gonna soak with penetrant, and grind a flat blade screwdriver to fit the round of the slot. anyone have a tip to remove the cup if my efforts fail? thanks
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Newell Nut
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« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2015, 03:16:59 AM »

The cup is screwed into a brass fitting in the side plate mold so soaking should do the trick.
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Fishit 2
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« Reply #12 on: May 24, 2015, 04:46:38 AM »

I met my bearing soak in penetrating fluid for a month now and I still can't get the cup out. Has anyone tried spraying something very cold on it, maybe it will shrink enough from the cold to be extracted?
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #13 on: May 24, 2015, 05:06:12 AM »

I met my bearing soak in penetrating fluid for a month now and I still can't get the cup out. Has anyone tried spraying something very cold on it, maybe it will shrink enough from the cold to be extracted?
Using these I haven't needed to soak any to date:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=9725.msg89829#msg89829

Sal
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« Reply #14 on: May 25, 2015, 02:16:03 AM »

Wow! $200? I know it's a handy tool but that is a bit expensive - I can see paying $30 for a set(maybe someone else makes a similar tool?) made in the US is not a big selling point for me. I'll lrobably just throw the bearing away and get a new one for $15.
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