anti reverse bearing lubrication

[DanteV]

Both Corvalus CV400's that I recently serviced had not only rusted ARB's but the bearings were no longer attached to the housing bracket. New vs Old.. $16 from Shimano because Fisherman's Warehouse said they were out of stock and backordered until October. (really?)




Just a tad rusty.






A week later the drags showed up so we take Humpty Dumpty apart again..




They sure needed replacement!




If I had my act together I would have had all parts in hand before I tore into them, but I'm a sucker for punishment.

I tried the TSI with ReelX on the ARB's this time to see how it works out. Is it better than running them bare? The saltwater side of me thinks otherwise..

[alantani]

i have always stuck with corrosion x for AR bearings and have avoided TSI 321 because i was afraid it was going to be too slick. i'm thinking now that it should not be a problem.  i know for sure that TSI /301/321 keep bearings spinning longer (3 years for me).  that has to translate into 3 years of corrosion protection. so now i'm thinking about switching to TSI 321 for my all purpose lubricant. 

i buy reel x because i like the bottle it comes in, but i found the bottle on amazon and bought 60 at 50 cents each.  no need to buy reel x anymore.

i buy corrosion x in the trigger pump bottle because i transfer it into the reel x bottle and use it as an all purpose lubricant at $1 per ounce.  i think i'm going to stop.

i still buy corrosion x in aerosol can's to spray reels after my long range trips.  i'm going to stick with that.

i have cans of TSI 301 that i use to dip spool bearings and levelwind parts for the maximum freespool.  it's expensive stuff at $23 for 8 ounces ($3 per ounce) but it's the best stuff i know. 

and i have 4 ounce bottles of TSI 321 that cost $8 each ($2 per ounce) that i could start transferring into my new bottles.  then i could use this as am all purpose lubricant.  i think that is the direction i'm headed.  and all purpose means AR bearings. 

[johndtuttle]

I had the same problems with my Calcutta's.  I spoke to a Shimano rep. at a tackle show, and he told me the antireverse bearings in my Calcutta's should be run bone dry (his words).  I tried flushing out the bearings, but I did not like the noise they made, and the problem never completely went away.

The failures occurred primarily when the temperature dropped close to freezing, but sometimes it's cold when I go fishing.

My solution was to switch to Abu Garcia.

I still have 9 Calcutta's.  I might be able to use them now with the onset of global warming.

Temperature is an important consideration as well as the type of clutch. The large rollers in the proprietary clutches on Shimano spinners should be completely dry, the needle type clutches in their conventional reels should all be lubed as they are very exposed in the handle. This is of course dependant on the performance of lube in cold weather.

Regardless, there is no substitute for regular service/cleaning and flushing to head off corrosion before it starts. AR Bearings are notorious for being neglected.

It's kinda like Avet and their drags: IF you meticulously flush them with fresh they are fine dry. The vast majority of guys would benefit from grease to protect their drags/clutches between trips when the average guys neglect their gear.

[nelz]

Several posts here are saying clutches on Shimano spinners should be completely dry. But what about Daiwa spinners?

Does this make either one very prone to corrosion, are they both made of stainless? I imagine they wear out quicker too, running dry?

[johndtuttle]

Several posts here are saying clutches on Shimano spinners should be completely dry. But what about Daiwa spinners?

Does this make either one very prone to corrosion, are they both made of stainless? I imagine they wear out quicker too, running dry?

Not at all. Shimano spinning reel clutches are a completely different design with a particularly long travel of their needles that have particularly wide flat bases that must slide freely over a plastic surface. Grease or old oil gums up this surface leading to failure of the clutch. On most Daiwa reels they use standard barrel clutches and those (as well as Shimano barrel clutches in their conventional reels) tolerate light protective lube just fine. In these clutches the needles are "suspended" by the cage and don't rest on wide flat bases.

If you take a look at a Shimano spinning reel and it's clutch then the issue becomes readily apparent.

[0119]

Shimano spinning reel clutches are a completely different design with a particularly long travel of their needles that have particularly wide flat bases that must slide freely over a plastic surface. Grease or old oil gums up this surface leading to failure of the clutch.

In these clutches the needles are "suspended" by the cage and don't rest on wide flat bases.

Are these features from shimano's A/R's also the reason most folks say all shimano's have some back play in their A/R that other brands don't display?  What you describe, is that the cause of a shimano's normal slight back play?