Shimano Triton Mark IV S Tutorial (of sorts)

Started by Quoc_Pham, August 09, 2014, 06:46:31 PM

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Quoc_Pham

Old school Shimano Triton Mark IV S


Start by taking off the screw that holds the main screw for the handle.




At this point I removed the cast control (be careful not to lose the shiny brass or copper shim inside) and the star.



Remove the three thumb screws holding the side metal ring


Then remove the locking screw and main screw for the clutch lever


Remove the (4) screws that hold the side casing.



The case and gears should come apart as one unit when you remove it.



When you separate the case, these three little O-Rings may pop out, do yourself a favor and put them back onto the screw now to prevent you from misplacing them.


The gear assembly and housing should separate easily. If not tap on the main gear shaft lightly and it should pop out (I already removed the gear stack).


Gear and drags were removed. (The guy who I sent to before me misassembled the drag stack which made it feel funny).



Disassemble and clean [Note: I use a baby food jar 1/4 full of carb cleaner, drop the parts in, close the lid and give a little swirl for about 60 seconds]



Oops! Dawn sent me the wrong drags... will have to update when I get the correct ones. Until then keep cleaning and servicing!


Inside of the case looked like this, I removed the spring for the clutch lever and round brass piece. I also removed the retaining clip for the spool bearing as well.



After cleaning the bearing, reinstall it and replace retaining clip and then grease.



Anti-reverse assembly cleaned up and greased.



Reinstall the pinion gear and yoke and then grease.


So the new drags came in... much better.


This is the order of the drag stack, I FORGOT TO PUT THE () [belleville] washers in this photo between the keyed washer and bearing.



Grease the inside


Assemble the gear into the side case [NOTE: Make sure the clutch round pin (on the round roller) lines up with the Yoke or you could damage it.


Reinstall spool


Grease the screw holes and mount the gear assembly to the case


Before you put the entire side back onto the cage, put the three thumb screws through the aluminum plate and side, then add the O-ring.



The rest my hands got dirty and got lazy picking up the camera phone but it's pretty simple,

Attach the clutch lever
Screw it in and attach the lock screw
Attach the star
Attach the lever
Screw it in and lock it.

Done!

Alto Mare

Not crazy about the shell on that reel, but I do see some nice features in the inside. That dog is one of the best yet.
I know you're not done, but, nice Job Croaker-King.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Quoc_Pham

Quote from: Alto Mare on August 09, 2014, 07:18:25 PM
Not crazy about the shell on that reel, but I do see some nice features in the inside. That dog is one of the best yet.
I know you're not done, but, nice Job Croaker-King.

Thanks! The reel has sentimental values, it belonged to my late father and surprisingly enough, I always wanted to go fishing with him but never had the chance (only when I was young). So rebuilding this reel and catching fish on it is a personal way of staying connected to him.

I was also very impressed by the dog! I just tore apart my first reel couple days ago and it was the Torium 30... I thought man they should put these old dogs into these new reels! The action on it is a lot more solid ins opinion.

However when my son becomes of age... I'm taking him fishing!

Alto Mare

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Quoc_Pham

Okay, should be done... This is only my second reel I've ever opened up so bear with me.

I'll be attacking my Shimano Baitrunner 4000D and 6000D soon!

MFB

Nice, I have a MK IV speedmaster, but it looks different to this. No chrome & has Phillips head screws that hold the side plates to the frame.

Rgds

Mark   
No man can lose what he never had.
                                                   Isaac Walton

Quoc_Pham

Quote from: MFB on August 12, 2014, 07:39:44 AM
Nice, I have a MK IV speedmaster, but it looks different to this. No chrome & has Phillips head screws that hold the side plates to the frame.

Rgds

Mark   

I think the Speedmasters are newer

doradoben

Nice job on the tutorial. I'm sure it takes a lot of patience. Do the old drag washers look that way because they were cleaned?

alantani

nice post!  send me a pm and i'll mail out a wrench!!!!!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Quoc_Pham

Quote from: doradoben on August 17, 2014, 01:29:30 AM
Nice job on the tutorial. I'm sure it takes a lot of patience. Do the old drag washers look that way because they were cleaned?

Honestly I have no idea, that's how it was "as removed". But I couldn't go wrong with the carbontex drags!

basto

#10
I think the original drag washers are canvas.
I love these old Tritons. They remind me of the Daiwa 50h. Alumnium side plates and frame, a quick change spool facility, nice sprung stainless dog and ratchet and a sensible gear ratio with a 2 position handle. What more could you want?
A beautiful, solid reel.
I have a Mark1 and 2 and am still looking for a 3 and 4.
cheers
Basto
DAM Quick 3001      SHIMANO Spedmaster 3   Jigging Master PE5n

basto

Quote from: Alto Mare on August 09, 2014, 07:18:25 PM
Not crazy about the shell on that reel, but I do see some nice features in the inside. That dog is one of the best yet.
I know you're not done, but, nice Job Croaker-King.
Hi Sal
Just wondering what you are referring to as the "shell" ?
DAM Quick 3001      SHIMANO Spedmaster 3   Jigging Master PE5n

Alto Mare

Quote from: basto on August 21, 2014, 01:28:22 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on August 09, 2014, 07:18:25 PM
Not crazy about the shell on that reel, but I do see some nice features in the inside. That dog is one of the best yet.
I know you're not done, but, nice Job Croaker-King.
Hi Sal
Just wondering what you are referring to as the "shell" ?
Sorry Basto... the graphite body.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

hurt locker

 Very nice tutorial. Thanks.  This tutorial will work for the Triton Mark III as well as the Triton 300 and  400 on the handle side. All the same. The frames on these Tritons are all aluminum, not graphite like the Speedmasters. I have worked on about 20 of these reels of various models and I think they were and still are awesome reels. Myself and a couple of my friends use them all the time for Flatheads and Big Blues. Here is a list of all the models that fall under Croaker's tutorial;;; Triton Mark IV, Mag Mark IV, Mark III, Mag Mark III, 300 Levelwind and 400 Levelwind..............   Hurt Locker

basto

Quote from: Alto Mare on August 21, 2014, 01:39:03 AM
Quote from: basto on August 21, 2014, 01:28:22 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on August 09, 2014, 07:18:25 PM
Not crazy about the shell on that reel, but I do see some nice features in the inside. That dog is one of the best yet.
I know you're not done, but, nice Job Croaker-King.
Hi Sal
Just wondering what you are referring to as the "shell" ?
Sorry Basto... the graphite body.
The body and side plates are aluminium.
DAM Quick 3001      SHIMANO Spedmaster 3   Jigging Master PE5n