alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Replacing rear EVA grip and reel seat
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Replacing rear EVA grip and reel seat  (Read 8432 times)
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ZaneG
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« on: September 22, 2014, 08:56:39 AM »

After years of putting off fixing the reel seat on my 8ft shark rod I have decided to give it a shot.

The rod is an 8ft custom built rod for my 9/0 (80-130 class). I bought it from a builder in FL about 20 years ago and it was a rod he was using for his shark fishing needs. About 10 years ago the reel seat broke free and I never got around to fixing it. The reel seat is chrome plated brass with EVA grips front and back.

Not having any experience doing this I started first with a little investigation and came to the conclusion I should either drill the reel seat and fill with epoxy or strip off the rear grip and reel seat and rebuild from that end. I decided that since I was not around when the rod was built and I did not know what was under the reel seat I would remove the rear grip.

I removed the grip with a utility knife and pushed the reel seat down. It turns out the builder had used a heavy braid to build up the blank under the reel seat. He built up the entire length of the reel seat and covered it with epoxy. It look as though the reel seat had broken free from the epoxy, maybe because the inside had not been roughed up enough or because it was just aged too much (I am sorry I did not get a picture of this).

I have cleaned the blank up to the fore grip and am waiting for some Rod Bond and a new grip to arrive from MH. I plan on using mesh tape to build up the blank under reel seat and using Rod Bond to install the seat.

One question I have is the rear grip I ordered is 24” long x 3/8” I.D. (I only need about 16”). The blank is 1” at the butt and tapers to about 7/8” where the reel seat ends.
Do I need to open the grip I.D.? If yes how much? And can I use a drill press?

Any advice on the remainder of the process would be appreciated.
(I did not take any pics of the process so far but will of the remainder)
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Jeri
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« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2014, 10:02:29 AM »

Hi ZaneG,

Have a horrible suspicion that you might have bought the wrong rear grip, getting a 3/8” bore drilled out enough to accommodate the 7/8” at the rear of the reel seat might be a challenge. If you had ordered a grip 7/8” bore, then it would stretch when warmed, over the 1” butt end of the rod – and you would have had a solution – difficult to achieve, but ‘doable’.

Most rods are built from the butt upwards. So the rear grip is put on first, then the reel seat, then the fore grip, then rings/guides or rollers. EVA is a difficult material to work with when trying to stretch it well beyond its desired dimensions – slipping it down over an increasing diameter blank is easier that what you are looking to achieve.

An alternative to having an EVA rear grip below the reel seat, might be to consider something like shrink tube, get some 30mm, pre-cover the rear section with a contact adhesive, then slide it over the blank, and heat with a hot air gun or a hair dryer – it will shrink down to the exact shape and taper of the blank. Just an alternative???

Hope that helps.

Cheers from sunny Africa


Jeri


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Bryan Young
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« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2014, 10:21:55 AM »

Hi Zane,

the 3/8" bore is going to be a problem for you...sorry to say.  I'm not sure how thick your grip is, so boring it out with a heavy grit reamer is better.  You would need to remove a lot of material if this is an option.

If you don't need the softness of the EVA, I would recommend cord wrap the remaining section of the butt and if you want a smooth surface, X-shrink tube over it.

Jon, I had to borrow your pics for an example.  Sorry.

Cord butt section:


I'm sorry, I could not find a photo where x-shrink tubing is used.  Basically, it's shrink tubing with an x-design.

Good luck.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
Jon Vadney
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« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2014, 01:02:58 PM »

Not a problem Brian haha.  I'm building a rail rod right now with a cord rear grip with Xflock over it.  I'll be posting pics in a couple weeks when it's done.  I have not had a problem getting 1/2" to stretch out to 1" using the rubber cement method.  It works amazingly well.  3/8" to 1" would be quite a stretch for a rear grip.

Also, just for future reference, I sell U40 Rod bond and I get it shipped out quicker than mudhole Smiley
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ZaneG
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« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2014, 01:16:38 PM »

I apologize I was working and thinking about fishing at the same time. I ordered the CM4 (3/4")I.D. x 1 1/4" OD

I would like to use the foam if possible. If the foam can't be stretched do you think I could use the mesh tape to bring the blank to a straight 1" them ream the grip to almost 1".Just a thought.

I read that Hypalon grips stretched more but it seems that they are out of stock in a lot of places.

Thanks Jon I will keep you in mind now I know.

MC
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Jon Vadney
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« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2014, 01:22:13 PM »

You will have no problem stretching 3/4" to 1".  Hell, I could comfortably stretch 3/4" to 1.3-1.4".  Use the rubber cement method outlined in the below video.  Life changer for me in terms of installing grips.  Additionally, using masking tape for your bushings under your reelseat is more than sufficient with today's modern epoxies.  I use U40 rod bond exclusively and have never had a reel seat work loose on me and all I do is 3 bands of 1" masking tape (Bill in the video below uses a narrower tape and does more bands, either way works).

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Jon Vadney
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« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2014, 01:24:06 PM »

Here's the link to my site Zane:

http://www.californiatacklehouse.com
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ZaneG
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« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2014, 05:26:45 PM »

Thanks for sharing the video it was super informative. I will check out your store before my next order.

Below is a pic of the rod described above with reel seat and rear grip removed.



I will update after I install the new components. Or at least attempt to.

MC
« Last Edit: September 23, 2014, 02:21:21 AM by ZaneG » Logged
ZaneG
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« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2014, 10:23:52 AM »

So I installed the reel seat using the mesh tape and Rod Bond easy enough. Let it dry a couple days and attemped to install the EVA foam from the rear. Did not go well. I dont think the stretching from 3/4" to 1" is the problem but trying to install the foam from the rear and having the foam try and strech immediatly that amount instead of working it down a taper caused some trouble. At first I used some rubber cement but could tell that I would need to use some actual lube to have any chance at all to getting this thing on.

I then tried a few different ways to get the foam on:

- capping end of foam and pressurized it with air hose
- heat gun
- stuck a rod in the end of the blank so I could use a backer board to push on the foam
- combination of all

I could only get the foam on about 9" before it locked tight so i did what any fustrated person would do, put it on on 3 sections.

Which brings me to my next question is there a good way to sand/work an installed EVA grip so I could make the seams look nicer (less noticeable)?

« Last Edit: October 03, 2014, 11:05:17 AM by ZaneG » Logged
jonnou
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« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2014, 12:29:44 PM »

I know zero about building rods
But you got it done
 I am sure you will make it look great
Hairspray works as a lubricant but will bind and stick after about 10 seconds
 I am an Ex tyre fitter
would be slipperyer (is that a word?) than rubber cement 
also there is a product called "skid" but it could dessolve things
on the joins Maybe a slight chamfer
Good luck
Jon
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ZaneG
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« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2014, 02:41:40 PM »

Thanks Jonnou. My first time repairing a rod as well but I thought I would give it a try.

I did chamfer both the blank end and the foam (picture of end of blank)



but it didnt help.

Looking back I should have opened the ID to match the blank better and the epoxy would have held it in place.

Anyway this rod is no work of art it has its share of scars from years of beach / bridge fishing so besides adding a gimbal I will use it as is.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2014, 02:42:40 PM by ZaneG » Logged
jonnou
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« Reply #11 on: October 03, 2014, 07:33:42 PM »

was just thinking if you put a small chamfer (arris) where the sections join
it would make a neat little v "feature" if you now what I mean
 
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bluefish69
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« Reply #12 on: October 03, 2014, 08:02:31 PM »

Sand the 3 pcs. as smooth as possible & put Heat Shrink [X Flock] over the everything

Mike
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Tiddlerbasher
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« Reply #13 on: October 04, 2014, 08:37:54 AM »

I echo Mike's comment.
The way I do my rod handles is as follows:
Standard eva/hyperlon material.
Drill a 3/16-1/4 hole close to one end.
Super glue the end of a length of 3/16-1/4 rot proof cord into the hole - allow to dry.
Tightly spiral rap the cord the entire length of the handle. Marking the eva near the end.
Drill  a 3/16-1/4 hole for the cord. Cut the cord and superglue into the hole.
Get some appropriately sized x-wrap. Cut slightly overlength for the handle.
Rotate rod and heat with a hot air gun or hair drier.
You now have a textured and hardwaringng handle with a lot more grip than standard eva.

Like this:


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bluefish69
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« Reply #14 on: October 04, 2014, 08:43:46 AM »

The X Wrap holds up better then Eva or Hyperlon in rod holders in the boat. you can always cut it off & replace it with new material.

Mike
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