alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial charter special tr 1000/2000
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
May 30, 2020, 08:54:03 PM *
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Author Topic: charter special tr 1000/2000  (Read 128950 times)
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braz13
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« Reply #120 on: February 23, 2018, 12:54:49 PM »

Hi Barry
If you send a private message to Alan, he'll take care of you, I've had a couple of orders from Alan now and can't find fault, brilliant products and brilliant service.

Cheers
Brian
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swill88
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« Reply #121 on: February 23, 2018, 03:56:18 PM »

Braz,

I own a CS1000 & CS2000.  These handles and frames look awesome.  How do I sign myself up for a set of these upgrades?
 

Welcome Barrywa115...  Brian is right... do what he says.

steve

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Barrywa115
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« Reply #122 on: February 23, 2018, 08:39:46 PM »

, I sent Alan a PM. Thanks
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Barrywa115
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« Reply #123 on: March 02, 2018, 08:22:22 PM »

Hi all,
I have a CS2000 that has just decided to provide me with a learning opportunity.

The reel freespools even when the drag lever is engaged. If I crank the handle, the spool moves but I can stop it with my thumb, and it freely spins backwards. If I position the drag lever to freespool, tighten the drag setting, then set the drag lever to strike, the reel still frespools. It is as if the main gear is disengaged.

Also, if I shake the reel it sounds like a ball from one of the bearings is rolling around near the main gear. I am going to take the reel apart tomorrow to see what is going on. Any thoughts on what might be causing the problem would be appreciated.
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alantani
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« Reply #124 on: March 02, 2018, 10:56:50 PM »

there is a soft stainless steel "plug" that locks the main gear in place relative to the drive shaft.  sometimes it pops out.  if you can tap it back in, then take a punch and hammer and give it a couple of good whacks, it should work again. 
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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
Barrywa115
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« Reply #125 on: March 03, 2018, 08:46:03 PM »

Ok. I think I found the SS plug. It was about a 1/2 fingernail thickness from flush. I popped it a few times with a punch. That seemed to work.  Thanks! (I’m new to posting. I tried to insert a photo here but couldn’t figure it out. I attached a photo.)

So I rebuilt the reel and swapped out the frame and handle. There were 3 washers on the main shaft (#154), 2 preload spring washers (#44) and preload washer (#72).  The thickness of the two spring washers measured 1.73mm. The replacement spring washers measured 2.35mm.  So slightly thicker. I reassembled the reel using the 2 thicker cupped washers and the preload washer (#72). The rebuild assembly is 0.62 mm thicker than the stock washer assembly.

The handle turns freely when the drag lever is in free spool but the handle gets hard to turn when the drag lever is in the strike position. I think I need to go back and remove the flat washer (#72) and try it again. Is there anything else that could be causing the handle to be hard to turn with drag but okay in free spool?


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alantani
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« Reply #126 on: March 03, 2018, 08:55:48 PM »

sounds like you have a bad pinion bearing. 
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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
Barrywa115
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« Reply #127 on: March 03, 2018, 10:30:30 PM »

Okay, thanks for sharing.  Smooth drag sells the right side and drag plate as a set (#75) soIll try that and post the results.
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Barrywa115
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« Reply #128 on: March 04, 2018, 09:25:15 PM »

Hi all,
I found the problem with the “hard-to-turn” handle. With the reel disassembled, the spool would spin freely on the shaft until I tightened the click gear screws. The clearance at the click gear cap was ever so slightly too tight.

I remembered Alan Tani’s instruction to make the total drag stack as close to the original thickness as possible.  I removed the preload washer(#72) and reinstalled the click gear cap. The spool spun freely with #72 removed so I put the reel back together and the handle worked fine.

Here are the drags washer thicknesses I measured:
Original drag spring washers (#44): 1.73 mm
Original flat preload washer   (#72): 0.50 mm
Upgrade drag spring washers (#44): 2.35 mm

As you can see, the original set up was 2.23 mm; the problem set up was 2.85 mm and the final set up is 2.35 mm.

With the rebuild complete I set up the drag, again learning from this website (thank you).  I put the reel on a rod and rigged up a pole holder angled at approx 45 degrees. Then I hooked a 10lb downrigger ball and
set the drag so that the weight slowly pulls line out. 5 ft in 5 seconds or a little slower. Close enough. Below,is a photo of a CS 2000LD with Alan’s custom frame, custom handle and drag upgrade. The quality of the AT parts is impressive. Thanks for all of your help.


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* IMG_8098.JPG (2477.82 KB, 4032x3024 - viewed 227 times.)
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Barrywa115
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« Reply #129 on: March 04, 2018, 11:03:05 PM »

Sorry about the upside down pics.   Undecided if you click on the paper clip (bottom left) it comes out better.
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FishTremble
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« Reply #130 on: August 22, 2018, 09:24:52 PM »

Hi, Alan, glad I found this thread!

Working on mine, I see I got a couple things wrong. Loved the picture of opening the bearings for re-lube and the belvilles (I dropped mine before I noted how they go)!

I have two quick questions:
Mine has a small hole, ~3mm between the middle quadrant screw and the upper drag stop button. What is this for? Did I lose something that goes in it? Doesn't that let water in? (That's supposed to be one question?  Undecided

Second, the pinion gear has a short cut on one end and a long cut on the other (no dog jokes, please)  Grin Which end goes in the spool cap and which end faces out?

Thanks again and keep up the great work!
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