charter special tr 1000/2000

[Robert Janssen]

Hey Alan,

...but I found... ... Dragon Plate and is epoxy laminate with different surface products... if the material is appropriate for the purpose...
                                                              Fishy76

This an epoxy laminate, as used in structural applications like tennis rackets and bike parts, not suitable for friction applications. Use Dawn's material or HT-100.

.

[fishy76]

stick with carbontex.  they are cut properly and they are the right thickness.  there is a penn drag washer will work, but you have to bore out the center with a step drill and it's a real hassle.  i use to do that but gave up when dawn came out with a carbontex drag that fit. 

Hey Alan,

Just opened a TLD 15 and was amazed at the simplicity as compared to the charter special 2000.  Both worked well for the Cow striped bass I've boated.  However, some fishermen can't handle the lack of level wind and let  the spool high center, kind of a disaster. 

BTW, I didn't realize that the spool of the charter special was aluminum?  The bearing 213 in the right spool cavity had to be pounded out and was blue.  I had no idea that the bearing could get so hot.  Maybe heat transmitted from the drag?  I wonder if the previous owner of this reel saw smoke?  Well, working on E-Bay charter specials has been enlightening.  Most end up being over priced and near the cost of new.  It's true, "buyer beware" as the exterior hides the interior damage.

Think I tried to communicate with Dawn, but I don't always know if my effort to communicate actually makes the trip.

Thanks for a great forum that certainly enlightened me and saved my bacon!

                                                               JTB

[fishy76]

stick with carbontex.  they are cut properly and they are the right thickness.  there is a penn drag washer will work, but you have to bore out the center with a step drill and it's a real hassle.  i use to do that but gave up when dawn came out with a carbontex drag that fit. 

Hey Alan,

Knew I would mess up and strip a graphite screw hole.  How do I fix it?  Thanks for helping,

                                                                 Joy

[day0ne]

stick with carbontex.  they are cut properly and they are the right thickness.  there is a penn drag washer will work, but you have to bore out the center with a step drill and it's a real hassle.  i use to do that but gave up when dawn came out with a carbontex drag that fit. 

Hey Alan,

Knew I would mess up and strip a graphite screw hole.  How do I fix it?  Thanks for helping,

                                                                 Joy

Call Shimano. They have some over sized screws for just this problem. 877-577-0600, 5:00A - 5:00P PST, Mon - Fri

[redsetta]

I usually cut a little strip of copper and insert that into the screw hole...

[fishy76]

Hey Alan,

OK with calling Shumano for the larger size screws, but I sure dislike mixed screw sizes.  Like one size fits all.  Will epoxy  stick to the graphite?  For other projects, I have coated the treads with grease and/or placed saran on the screw.  Hmmm, now just how did I do that?  Was the epoxy liquid steel? 

More to learn,

                                                                     Fishy76

[fishy76]

stick with carbontex.  they are cut properly and they are the right thickness.  there is a penn drag washer will work, but you have to bore out the center with a step drill and it's a real hassle.  i use to do that but gave up when dawn came out with a carbontex drag that fit. 

Hey Alan,

Hope to get the carbontex drag washers and Cal's drag grease today so I can get on with reel maintenance; however, on several of the older E-Bay reels, I removed all the shields and packed the bearings with reel butter or hotsauce.  In looking back at the tutorial, seems that only the main gear bearing is heavy grease lubed and the interior bearings have Extreme X / Corrosion X applied.  The latter seems to be a light oil somewhat like the Abu Garcia silicote reel oil.  Should I clean 'em all again and use the "Extreme X" on all the interior bearings?

Another question is about the spring washers.  You recommended increasing the thickness by using the TLD spring washers.  Seems that this small increase in thickness/spring tension is intended to ramp up the drag quicker from free spool to the strike drag weight.  Seems that this may increase the actual maximum drag at full lever, but not sure how the strike weight interacts with the full lever?  One reel didn't have a thrust washer inside the pinion guard.  I added one and seems like this is similar to increasing the thickness of the spring washers?  Is a thrust washer necessary inside the pinion guard?  Seems like the schematic shows the thrust washer outside the pinion guard, yet in the factory new reels, the thrust washer is inside the pinion guard?

OK one more question.  I seem to have trouble tightening the reel handle so it isn't loose on the shaft.  When it's tight, sometimes it makes the shaft/gear friction so tight that it's uncomfortable to reel.  Should I leave the shaft free to move in and out a bit?  The thrust washer seems like it's either too thick or too thin.  I'm thinking that any added work to spin the handle will be tiring with a fish on?

                                                                      Fishy76

[alantani]

stick with corrosion x.  it's good stuff.  if you are happy with the performance of your reel having bearings greased. leave them be.  bearings will last longer if they are fully packed with grease.  the changes made by adding the thicker bellevilles are exactly as you describe. a thrust washer is generally needed right next to any bearing, but the bellevilles serve that purposer well enough.  whether you use thick or thin bellevilles depends on how much drag range you need.  for the handle, you ideally want zero load and zero freeplay.  shim it if there is too much freeplay, pull a washer or carefully file down the collar that holds the drive shaft if there is a load. 

[alantani]

we need photos!!!!   

[fishy76]

stick with corrosion x.  it's good stuff. .  .  .

Thanks Alan,

I have several of the thicker spring washers.  I tried it on one reel and it worked OK.  I also exchanged the TLD 15 handle with the stock 2000 handle and what a difference.  Ordered 4 more TLD handles!   Much larger knob and about 3/4 inch greater radius for leverage. 

Decided to clear the stripped hole in the frame of the 2000 and fill with JB Weld.  Will likely insert a tooth pick while the epoxy hardens.  The tooth pick will easily drill out.  If the Tight Bond sticks to the frame, the problem will be solved. 

Don't have the Yamaha all purpose marine lube (blue) yet.  Won't get to my favorite boat shop until later this week. 

Cal's drag grease went quickly with changing out 10 drag washers.  Then, this is likely an upgrade once in the life of the reel.  Yet, the seasonal maintenance will happen as needed.  Solvent chase the old grease and re-lube .  .  .  Sort of like my boat trailer buddy bearing caps mean new seals and cleaned bearing and re-lube.  A thankless task, but it's better than a breakdown on the side of the road.  Nothing worse than to have to change a hub in sub zero temperatures.  Always happens during a blizzard, below zero temperatures, and no place to warm hands. 

Again, thanks for  your advice about maintaining my 2000s. 

The COWs may not appreciate the smooth drag and being boated, but it's my quest.  This year, my goal is a 60+ pound striper.  Maybe even get into Tony Ghecko's 60 + pound striper club records.   Some say I shouldn't target the COWS and only do the schoolies.  I look at the bunker factory ships taking the striper food and the commercial boat netting thousands of stripers and dumping them in the ocean as destructive to the fishery.  If the scientists inform me that the fishery is in danger of low stocks, I'll work with the correction.   

John Kerr reservoir in VA/NC has a spawning population of striped bass.  The VDIGF maintains a constant monitor of the population of striped bass and their healthi in the Virginia water shed.  I help with gill net surveys that demonstrate the health of several species in Kerr.  In warmer waters, the striped bass mortality when released by a fisherman is near 90 percent.  Too much stress caused by the fight, the water temperature, and gill maggots.  The longevity of these fish is about 8 years, so releasing larger fish may not improve the fish population. 

I certainly enjoy re-reading Shawn Kimbro's "Chesapeake Light Tackle Striper Fishing".  His web site is always informative!

OK, back to the reels and an attempt with JB Weld.

                                                                  Fishy76

[fishy76]

I usually cut a little strip of copper and insert that into the screw hole...

Hey Redsetta,

My attempt with JB weld failed, so Ill try your idea.  May have to order the larger replacement screw for the future.  As frequently as I take my reels apart, I'm sure I'll damage another down the road.  Thanks for your advice,

                                                         Fishy76

[alantani]

i would use a small thin sliver of copper from the hardware store.  i have found that copper works the best.

[fishy76]

i would use a small thin sliver of copper from the hardware store.  i have found that copper works the best.

Hey Alan,

Couldn't get the sliver of copper to hold and went with a #6 brass wood screw of the right length.  Drilled the side plate for the larger diameter.  Won't ever have a problem identifying the reel with the brass screw!  Well, it worked .  .  .

                                                          Fishy76

[alantani]

fair enough!   

[fishy76]

fair enough!   

Hey Alan,

Did it again, bought a tr2000ld off EBay and figured that the $40 that included shipping would give me some frame parts, etc.  But, it wasn't all that bad if I used some of my stock parts.  The right end cap spool bearing was siezed and I didn't have your special tool to get it and no way to bend a screw driver.  Slipped a 4 penny nail point in from the inside and caught the nail head in the space between the bearing and the cap body and drove  the bearing out.  The click pawl was trashed and I replaced it.  The cross pin was frozen and most impossible to get out.  Did the deed, but took some fine filing to restore operation.  The pinion gear seems quite worn, but didn't replace it.  The other bearings were sound and given fresh lube.  Changed the bellevilles as you suggested, but noticed that there was a thrust washer on both sides of the bellevilles.  I left them in place.  The drag washer seemed to have been lubed, so I replaced it with a stock from another reel.  Didn't have a carbontex available.

OK, reel reassembled and the lever works.  The spool will spin free for about couple of seconds.  When the lever is advanced from the free spool position, the effort to crank becomes increasingly difficult and reduces at full lever.  At very low drag settings, the crank effort is very light.  I can remove the thrust washer away from the bearing and see if it lessens the crank effort.  Maybe them blue drag weights?  But thought to ask what you think might be causing the heavy crank effort.

Maybe I should have kept my original thought and just used it for parts .  .  .

Thanks for any suggestion/recommendation,

                                                    Fishy76