alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial The Jigmaster Project
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: The Jigmaster Project  (Read 127730 times)
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Rothmar2
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« on: April 30, 2015, 02:51:52 AM »

G'day everyone, got another one on the go. I'd posted somewhere that I would've liked to get my hands on a Jigmaster to do a full make-over on, but hadn't been able to locate one locally at a fair price.
   I got a PM from Mike (mhc) a few days later saying he had one he could send me, and that he'd swap it for a set of 316SS rings, and could I make a second set which he'd pay me for.
For that sort of generosity, the least I could do was do both sets for free!
    Anyway, here it is.






I'll add, that apart from a little pitting on the spool, and some initials scratched on the left side plate (not Mike's), the reel was in very good condition. Heaps of freespool, smooth drag, immaculately cleaned and greased on the internals. Mike sure knows how to look after his gear.

Anyway onto the rings. I won't go into full details here, as the I have followed the same basic process from the 6/O project.....

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10286.0

But will just outline a few subtle differences.
For the left side rings, I have been able to utilize the cut outs from the 6mm SS plate used to make the 6/0 rings



It's the same process as in the linked thread above. Chuck speed a little quicker than machining the 6/0 rings, due to smaller diametre. I used 180rpm throughout.
Ring machined ready for drilling.



The right side rings have a bit more to them.
Firstly I needed thicker plate, 8mm, as everyone knows the right ring is wider to fit the locking ring and the side plate. Plus there is a very slight 1 degree taper to the outer ring to help centralize the locking ring.



So a bit of a sketch of the ring and dimensions were in order.
  Basically the opening for the spool was 61.3mm (sorry child of the metric system here). The ID width of the ring across the flange is 75.5mm and tapers out to 75.8mm. The inner depth to contain the lock ring and the right plate is 6.4mm. The material thickness of the ring is pretty much 1mm all over.
 So pretty much the same procedure, except the compound slide for the tool post set for a 1 degree taper (inwards).

Turn out the spool bore



Scoop out for the locking ring



Once close, take frequent small cuts and check fit of the lock ring, almost there



And done. The lock ring should require a bit of a push to seat it correctly



Reverse the ring on the chuck and tighten outwards. Note mark to keep the ring in same mounting position. You have to meticulously clean all the inside of the ring of swarf, to insure the ring re-mounts flush and true (enough).



Don't forget to change compound slide angle to taper outward



Then face off the flange to thickness (1mm)



And trim the outside edge to give the same



Remove from chuck, deburr, and ready for drilling



Still have to make the drilling mandrel yet out of mild steel. I am picking up a 5-40 UNC tap and die set in the next day or so for tapping the hole for the lock screw. Lock screws will be made from SS as well.

In time I'll remake the ratchet, clutch lever, crank, handle (or knob?), etc etc.
Will keep updating as I get it done.

Thanks again to Mike for giving me the opportunity for this project.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2017, 01:28:06 AM by Rothmar2 » Logged
wallacewt
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« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2015, 03:31:16 AM »

you,re at it again chris! Cheesy
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Keta
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« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2015, 03:50:05 AM »

Very nice!
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Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.
A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
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Rothmar2
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« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2015, 04:01:56 AM »

you,re at it again chris! Cheesy

Again? I never stop.........
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mhc
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« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2015, 05:24:02 AM »

Very nice!

x two
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It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.
jigmaster501
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« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2015, 04:56:51 AM »

How much are you guys charging for a set of these?
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bestout
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« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2015, 05:05:13 AM »

looks nice keep it up Smiley
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The monsters in my head are scared......
Penn Chronology
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« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2015, 05:27:24 AM »

Your level of skill is reminiscent of 1930's craftsmanship, when machinists apprenticed for five years before they were considered journeymen. I am very impressed and will be watching this post religiously. Thank you very much for sharing.
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fIsHsTiiCkS
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« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2015, 12:39:31 PM »

Solid work as always!! Any plans to narrow the reel?
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Rothmar2
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« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2015, 01:54:23 PM »

Errr, compared to others here, my skills are pretty insignificant really.
But sufficient for "easier" pieces, like rings that can be done on the lathe.
Would really like to learn to use a mill, and be able to afford one. That's another story.....
I will probably look into narrowing this one down the track, but would like to use it first. It was well usable when Mike had sent it to me. After I do this round of rings (3 sets) I'll just put another dog in, and remake the ratchet in stainless, and see how it goes. I will get the SS sleeve in ASAP, but no rush on it yet. Will ultimately get all of Alan C's upgrades in as well.
  To JM 501, not really sure of what I would charge. At the moment each ring has taken about 4hrs work, and I've machined 6, and they aren't finished yet. Remember I'm in Australia as well.......

Got a bit more done last night. Made up a clamp to fix side plate to drill mandrel for transfer punching the hole centres



Punch the hole centres, this punch was trued on the lathe beforehand



Very carefully check the alignment of the centre pops before taking to the mandrel with the drills. A mistake here carries over to your rings, and they won't fit, or chew the threads on the side plate screws. 4mm drill for the screw holes, 2.5mm for the locking screw (to be tapped later).



First of the 3 left plate rings drilled, and test fitted on the side plate.



Picked up the 5-40 tap and die yesterday. Will probably get onto the right plate rings tonight.
« Last Edit: September 02, 2017, 04:38:19 AM by Rothmar2 » Logged
Marcq
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« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2015, 02:40:15 PM »

Bravo!!! I love those  Cool

Marc..
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David Hall
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« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2015, 03:15:06 PM »

Glad I finished my latest book read last night.  now I can get back here to the good stuff!
Thanks and keep posting.
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Rothmar2
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« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2015, 03:17:10 AM »

Got onto the right rings a few days ago. Drill speed 250rpm and plenty of cutting oil. No drama with drill burn-out



Used 2.5mm drill for clearance hole for the 5-40 Tap, no problem there.
Clamp in the lock ring and run taper tap through the threaded hole and into the SS ring. I hope there isn't an issue with thread synchronization for other lock rings, although there is a bit of flex available in the lock ring to help there



Finish SS thread with lock ring removed



Also spun up some lock screws. Used 10mm SS rod. Run the knurling tool onto it first as it takes a fair amount of pressure to rough up the surface.
Chuck speed 45rpm.



Shape the rest of the shank, 3mm exactly to run the die up



Run up the die, using the tail stock to keep it square, turn chuck by hand with lathe out of gear to get it started



Part piece off and use belt sander to tidy up any little stub pieces left over

Have almost finished polishing rings. Grits used 240, 400, 600, 800, 1000 lubed with WD40. Then a couple of runs with Autosol. Have some proper SS compound at home and will complete them there.


« Last Edit: September 03, 2017, 01:59:23 AM by Rothmar2 » Logged
Keta
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« Reply #13 on: May 10, 2015, 05:56:51 AM »

How many hours do you have in this project?   Your rings are "priceless".
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Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.
A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #14 on: May 10, 2015, 06:34:33 AM »

beautiful work Chris! Nice job on the rings, that thumb screw looks amazing as well.
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
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