Daiwa Tanacom 1000 Question

Started by xaf, May 26, 2015, 04:44:01 PM

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xaf

I know of many people, myself included, that have had problems with the connector on the power cord on the Daiwa Tanacom 1000.  The reel is very popular for deep dropping here in Florida but the electrical connector seems to be a weak link in the design.  Has anyone else had issues with the connector failing (the wires break internally)?  Does anyone know if Daiwa is aware or doing anything to eliminate this problem?  Does anyone know where you can buy a replacement connector without having to buy a whole new cord?

Thanks Bob

Donnyboat

My wife has a Tanacom 1000, good reel when working okay, we had trouble with the cord near the connecter, I opened it and found that some of the wire had know insulation on it about 10 mm half inch from the connector, I wanted to keep the connector to make a better cord, sent photos to Daiwa australia, they would not replace the cord unless I sent the old cord to them, my local auto electriction had one look @ it and said the original cord would not last 5 minutes, he was correct, the ware houses want $ AU 55:00 for a new one I would rather make my own that will last many years, cheers donnyboat.
Don, or donnyboat

handi2

I have 3 1000's and 1 750.

The first set of 2 I've not had a problem. They are the originals that cost too much. The 3rd one is the $500 one and after 1 1/2 years the motor went out.

No problems yet with the cords but I do carry a spare after reading so many complaints.
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

conchydong

#3
 I haven't had a cord problem either, with a lot of use but I fish them strictly on bent butts in swivel rod holders. I did cut off the clips on the battery end and put a Hubbell plug but haven't had a problem on the reel side. I use the dielectric (sp?) grease on the fittings. Perhaps those that use them on a rail or hand hold them have more side to side movement that effects the cords.  

xaf

Since my original post I have seen many more cord problems with the Tanacoms.  All the problems I have seen are right below the connector that attaches to the reel. I've cut a couple cords that failed apart and have found a broken wire in everyone.  I'm sure it comes from the movement caused by holding the rod and fishing it in a stand up position.  There is a lot of movement and stress on the cord right at the connector. (You would not get near as much stress if fished in a rod holder.) 

I tried to contact Daiwa about the cord issue but never received a response.  So I carry a spare cord or two just in case there is a problem.

Donnyboat

thanks, they replied to me I told them if I dont get any responce I would mention it on face book,twitter, and varios forums, thats the best way to get some result, they hate social media, when I fix my cord I am going to fix it to the reel, and it will stay on the reel for good, so there will be know movement near the connecter, cheers donnyboat.
Don, or donnyboat

xaf

Donnyboat, I thought of attaching the cord permanently or with some sort of strain relief but I ran into a problem.  I destroyed the male portion of the connector trying to find the problem. Only vaguely familiar with components, connectors, electronics parts, etc.  I have been unable to find a similar connector to replace the original.  If you find a replacement source, Part #, etc.  I sure would appreciate the info.

Bob

Donnyboat

thanks bob, I have used the old connector, I pulled the post out of the connector, ground the cord end of the post round, soldered the post to a wire coupling, solded fexible electric wire to the other end of the coupling, then bent the coupling into a right angle, then place heat shrink, from both directions, I am going to leave the cord on the rod & reel, cable ty it so it will stay in place, will send photos when one of your good people run me through how to post photos, I bet many of us want to learn this, I am the only mugg, that will admit it ?. on my old cord I taped it to some retractable air hose, it was`nt bad but reduce the length, restricting the reach, the ideal would be to lengthen the cord, run it through the middle of air hose, it would retract nice , plenty of old air hose @ truck wreckers, thanks Don.
Don, or donnyboat

Donnyboat

Ah Bob, if you sent a couple of photos, of your connector to a auto electrical warehouse, they should have catalouges with the connectors, when I was trying to solder a wire to the back of my connector the rubber became to hot, and the post started to revolve, so I pulled the posts out, rounded the of then ends,soldered the wire connector to them, then the wire to the connecter as well, then bent it in a right angle, placed a little techni glue on the out side of the post & pushed them back into the rubber, I have also panted some liquid insulation on the connector after I connected to the reel, not a real profecional job but looks okay, the reel is working good. cheers Donnyboat.
Don, or donnyboat

xaf

Donnyboat, finding a connector isn't really an issue now.  I had Mcgyvered it back together so it would work and a friend of mine wanted to borrow it. 
There was definitely something amiss with his reel.  He went through 3 cords, including mine, on a 2 day trip. Something must have been shorting out because the cords didn't just stop working, they actually got so hot the wires started to smoke and melt.  I think I would have quite after the first one but he went through 3 before he decided to quit.

Donnyboat

right Bob, maybe an inline fuse, could prevent some malfunction, I think the paint on insulation helps to keep the salt water away from cord repairs, cheers donnyboat.
Don, or donnyboat

conchydong

 XAF, The Daiwa factory repair is located in Miami. I stripped some gears on mine and they did the repairs as I was a little hesitant to try the repair on a electric reel myself. I would give them a call if I were you and see what they  think. Next time I may try it myself though if it is just mechanical and not electrical.

Donnyboat

thanks Bob, I some times use a cycle battery, remco-RM 12.9Hr
(12.7V7.6ahH/8) voltage regulation 13.5-13.8. Cycle use 14.4-15.0V. initial current 2.28A max, I get a good 3 days fishing out of it before recharging, I can move it around the boat when required, it has flat connectors, if one breaks of, dig some plastic out drill through the lug then screw a SS self tappet in, to clip on to, I reinforced my lugs with body filler, but dont join the body filler right across the battery or the posts will shoot out, cheers every one, hope this is some help. donnyboat.
Don, or donnyboat