alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial titus silver 50 II
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: titus silver 50 II  (Read 21674 times)
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alantani
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« on: December 07, 2008, 08:31:17 AM »

a friend brought over a half dozen fresh dungeoness crab a few weeks ago, then asked if i could take a look at a reel.  hey, no problem!  he sheepishly pulled out this reel and practially apologized.  he said he got a good deal on it and was hoping that i could work a little magic.  well here is the reel.  hmmm, a graphite 50.  it should hold up well enough......





here's a link to the schematics.

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Okuma/Okuma%20TS%2050%202sp.pdf

http://www.okumafishing.com/support/25/schematics/ts50-2.pdf

we will start be removing the drag knob (key #600 ) and compression spring (key #601).



remove the adjust block (key #602).



remove the drag lever (key #605).



remove the 5 right side plate screws (key #9301) with their washers (key #9215).



now that's odd.  why in the world is okuma using machine screws in a graphite frame?Huh???  the answer is simple.  it's not graphite, it's aluminum!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  this changes things dramatically.  note also that the screws have a thin clear grease on them.  2 points for okuma.



remove the right side plate assembly (key #200) as a unit.



remove the spool assembly (key #400) as a unit.



back out the two right side hangar screws (key #9309) one at a time, grease them and reinstall them.



back out the two left side plate hangar screws (key #9309) one at a time, grease them and reinstall them.



there has been some discussion regarding the pros and cons of greasing the body foot seat screws (key #9310).  it is my belief that corrosion anywhere is basically bad for a reel.  greasing the body foot (key #102) and screws (key #9310) will certainly prevent corrosion, but will also require dilligence on the part of the owner.  if you choose to grease these screws, you will then be required to check them on a regular basis to make sure they do not loosen on you.  let's go for it. 

use a 3mm hex head bit and remove the four reel seat screws (key #9310) and their washers (key #9218).  hmmm, screw #4 was already loose.



brush a light coat of grease on the base of the main body (key #100) and the mating surface of the body foot (key #102).





grease the screw holes and reinstall the screws (key #9310) and washers (key #9218).





for some reason, this reel did not come with a clamp.  i'm sure a simple omission.  a spare penn clamp solves that problem.



since this is an aluminum frame, it will be necessary to brush a light coat of grease on all the non-exposed surfaces.



there!  the frame is done.  now for the spool.  remove both the high speed pinion gear (key #702) and the low speed pinion gear (key #702-1) as a unit.  note that a washer (no key #) will be stuck to the bottom of the gears.



carefully spread and remove the white nylon silent spring (key #723).



remove the spool cover (key #405).  note the left hand threads.okuma may have a special wrench for this cap, but most likely it will not be needed.



remove the key washer (drag pressure plate) assembly (key #612) as a unit.



remove the pressure plate bearing (key #9105) and compression spring (key #613).



note the uneven application of drag grease.  this is a moderate  concern, but in all fairness, this uneven application of drag grease to a washer has been seen in penn and shimano reels as well. 



remove the click pawl (key #304) and click pawl screws (key #9314).





the main shaft assembly (key #718) has been removed and reassembled to show you the proper orientation and order of the various parts.  from left to right are the pressure plate bearing (key #9105), the compression spring (key #613), the right spool bearing (key #9105), the left spool bearing (key #9104), a thrust washer (key #9203), two spring (belleville) washers (key #609) oriented "()", and an e-clip (key #9402)



last out is the drag washer (key #611).  note the stainless steel backing plate. 





slap on a thick coat of cal's drag grease and make sure you get the inside and outside edges. 



now carefully wipe away all of the excess. 



apply a thin coat of grease to the back of the stainless steel backing plate and to the mating surface of the spool, then install the drag washer.  looks alot better, doesn't it!  and it will probably function better as well. 



now for the bearings.  if you are not familiar with bearing service procedures, do a search on this site for key word "bearings" and author "alantani" for a review. the drag pressure plate bearing (key #9105) on the left was cleaned and packed with yamaha engine grease.  it will be re-installed open because the shields were damaged in the removal process.  the right spool bearing (key #9105) in the center and the left spool bearing (key #9104) on the right were cleaned, lubed with corrosion x and will be re-installed open. 



apply a light coat of grease to the left side of the spool (key #400)and install the spool shaft assembly (key #718) with the left spool bearing (key #9104).



install the click pawl (key #304), screws (key #9314) and stopper pin (key #717).



install the right spool bearing (key #9105) and compression spring (key #613).



install the drag pressure plate bearing (key #9105) into the key washer (drag pressure plate) assembly (key #612).



install the key washer (drag pressure plate) assembly (key #612).



install the spool cover (key #405) and tighten firmly by hand.



install the silent spring (key #723).



install the high speed pinion gear (key #702), the low speed pinion gear (key #702-1) and the thrust washer (no key #) as a unit.



and the spool is done. 



install the spool assembly (key #400) into the the main body (key #100) and set both aside.



now for the right side plate assembly (key #200).  we need to pull out the right main side plate bearing (key #9101) and pack it with grease. 



remove the anti-reverse pawls (key #201), the hold plate screws(key #9302) and anti-reverse pawl springs (key #217).  note their orientation and function carefully.  they will have to be re-installed in exactly the same way.  and you would not want these to fail in the middle of a fight.





remove all four hold plate screws (key #9302).



remove the hold plate (key #207).



remove the low speed drive gear (key #700-1).  there is a washer (key #9217) underneath that is not shown.



remove the high speed drive gear (key #700).



remove the right side plate bearing (key #9101).



since we have an aluminum side plate, let's take an old toothbrush and spread the grease around a little. 



open up the bearing.  this one had a shield held in by a retaining ring.  again, note the gaps in grease.  . 



the mini-grease gun (see "tools of the trade") makes it easy to pack the bearing with grease. 



re-install the shields.



because the risks to this bearing are so high, i'm going to pack a little grease into the side plate.  this right main side plate bearing is always the first bearing to fail in ANY lever drag reel. 



install the right main side plate bearing (key #9101).



install the high speed drive gear (key #700), the washer (key #9217) and the low speed drive gear (key #700-1).


 
install the hold plate (key #207) and screws (key #9302).



install the anti-reverse pawls (key #201), springs (key #217) and screws (key #9302).  check for proper orientation and function.  ok, the side plate is done.  note that there are no bearings along the drive shaft (key #701) of this reel to service (or to fail).



let's put this reel back together.  put a small bead of grease in each frame screw hole.



add grease to the outside of the screw hole.  this is a common area for corrosion, though it is a cosmetic problem only. 



install the right side plate screws (key #9301) and washers (key #9215).



the decoration plate (key #205) is held in by three screws (key #'s 9305 and 9306).  remove them one at a time and grease each screw hole. 



install the drag lever (key #605).



install the adjust block (key #602).



install the compression spring (key #601) and drag knob (key #600).



remove the stock handle grip (key #500) with a 3mm hex bit and note the reverse threads on the screw (no key #).





i had my local machine shop make several dozen new handle grips.  these are even larger than before. 



and done!



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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
alantani
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« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2010, 07:27:57 PM »

Thought you might be interested in this, clarification on the titus vs titus siver reels, from the president of Okuma of all people!

Quote

Thank you for your mail and inquiry. Let me clarify the differences between our Titus and Titus Silver reels.

1. Unfortunately, both series have been discontinue in our main product range for about 18 months. However, if you buy one from a retail store, the reels will continue to be covered under our one year warranty from the date of purchase.
2.The Titus series was an all graphite constructed lever drag reel.
3.The Titus Silver was an all aluminum construction and was anodized a silver/gray color.

Both series were very good, long standing series for us and I’m sure they will serve you well if you chose to buy one. However, the reason they were discontinued was because we recently upgraded our line with our new Solterra graphite lever drag and a new, higher end, fully machine cut aluminum series, the Makaira.

Please feel free to visit our website for more information on these series – www.okumafishing.com.

Best Regards,


Douglas Lasko
President
Okuma Fishing Tackle
909 923 2828 ext 120


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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
steelfish
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« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2015, 02:01:05 PM »

where to get okuma parts online?

I need the compression spring key 613
and maybe the main Right side bearing that is locate in the right side plate key 9101




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jonnou
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« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2015, 08:10:13 PM »

Not sure were to get the parts. But get that bearing!! I resurrected one and Used it for a while when I opened it up again the inner race was split in half  and the bearing Toast.
As Alan says these are the first Bearings to fail in a Lever Drag Reel.
Good luck with the Parts
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