alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Tutorial Installing IAR bearing
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
July 11, 2020, 09:17:13 PM *
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Author Topic: Tutorial Installing IAR bearing  (Read 56144 times)
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Ken_D
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« Reply #15 on: October 10, 2011, 07:28:49 AM »

Hi , That's a great tutorial. Im thinking of upgrading my old black 6500 which originally doesnt have an IAR bearing fitted. Just wondered how far to press in , on the photos it looks flush with the inside of the casing ,is that right? Has anyone upgraded the main gears / multi disc drag on one of these old reels?
Thanks  

kewl. But forget it. IAR brg will not fit.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 11:02:49 AM by Ken_D » Logged
Killerbug
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« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2011, 04:27:53 AM »

Thanks to Slowly and Snagged2, this is great stuff.
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Slowly
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« Reply #17 on: December 22, 2011, 05:34:06 PM »

you're welcome!!!   Grin Grin Grin
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Pura Vida!
Snagged2
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« Reply #18 on: December 22, 2011, 07:55:05 PM »

you're welcome!!!   Grin Grin Grin
Absolutely,,ditto
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B Austin
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« Reply #19 on: March 10, 2012, 02:12:25 PM »

I noticed in the pictures in the pictures that one side of the IAR is stamped and the other side is not. I've just broken open a supposedly virgin reel and the stamping (ie. ID #s and the like) inside of the plate. Is this is how it should be, or the other way around? I thought I saw in one of the tutorials the reverse case. I may be mistaken. Sorry that I did not ask this question before, but where is the best place to order these replacements?
« Last Edit: March 10, 2012, 02:18:41 PM by B Austin » Logged
alantani
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« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2012, 09:56:10 PM »

i'd install the inner tube into the IAR bearing and see which way it turns, just to make sure. 
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Killerbug
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« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2012, 04:17:35 AM »

I noticed in the pictures in the pictures that one side of the IAR is stamped and the other side is not. I've just broken open a supposedly virgin reel and the stamping (ie. ID #s and the like) inside of the plate. Is this is how it should be, or the other way around? I thought I saw in one of the tutorials the reverse case. I may be mistaken. Sorry that I did not ask this question before, but where is the best place to order these replacements?

On left handled reels the IAR is reverced.
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B Austin
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« Reply #22 on: March 15, 2012, 06:11:30 PM »

I just did the 14 and 9 mm method, but since I don't have a good vice, would it be approiate to ask for more specific instructions on tnis method. ie. bolt size etc? I hope I'm not just missing something.
Thanks in advance. 
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Ken_D
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« Reply #23 on: March 18, 2012, 10:04:35 AM »

I just did the 14 and 9 mm method, but since I don't have a good vice, would it be approiate to ask for more specific instructions on tnis method. ie. bolt size etc? I hope I'm not just missing something.
Thanks in advance.  

The Vise method is great if you have one. If not: All you need is a socket (Allen-head) capscrew, in inch, about 5/16" x 2 1/2", a hex nut for same, a flat washer, a 3/8" drive socket that catches that little 'lip' on the bearing boss, and a wrench or pliers for the hex nut.
The OD of the capscrew catches the outer race of the IAR.  If you live where metric is the format, then take your sideplate to the shop, and get one of the appropriate measurements.  I bought my capscrew and nut for under 2.00 Canadian.

Method:  From the inside of the side plate, carefully insert capscrew in the IAR, place socket on boss, place washer on socket, place hex nut on washered capscrew, , and walk the IAR up and out into the socket.  Easy-peasy lemon squeezey.  I've modified an old brass doorknob instead of a wrench. The IAR is not all that tight in the boss.

To install a new IAR, place capscrew on IAR, place capscrew from the inside as before, with socket washer and nut, and and walk the IAR into the bearing housing-boss. That's why you want a capscrew about that 2" length...to allow for the depth of the new IAR. I place a drop of sewing machine oil in the boss, and carefully align the bearing to prevent canting and possible distortion on the way back in. Of the dozens so far, all is good.
(Many Abu reels don't have IAR, but are set up to take them, so in they go.)

 
« Last Edit: March 19, 2012, 02:06:20 PM by Ken_D » Logged
GulfOfBothnia
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« Reply #24 on: May 12, 2012, 10:00:29 PM »

Great tips in here!

Yesterday I changed IAR for the very first time... succesfully.
Took it out in vice as described in here.

I used reloading press to put IAR in the side plate.
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fishnetter
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« Reply #25 on: February 15, 2013, 08:23:19 AM »

Has anyone ever used the hydraulic method to remove bearings?  I have filled up a bearing cavity on vehicles with grease and used a rod that just fits in the bearing hole and used the grease as the force and popped the bearings out.  Never used it on a reel bearing yet but it works on vehicles with enclosed bearings.  Just a thought?? Huh?
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Ken_D
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« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2013, 06:40:12 PM »

Has anyone ever used the hydraulic method to remove bearings?  I have filled up a bearing cavity on vehicles with grease and used a rod that just fits in the bearing hole and used the grease as the force and popped the bearings out.  Never used it on a reel bearing yet but it works on vehicles with enclosed bearings.  Just a thought?? Huh?

Hi, it may work in reels with enclosed brgs, but in most abus, they are not enclosed. Some of the Penns are, tho.
Like the driveshaft bb on the 340 345's, and the spool bearing on the 330, in the side plate. But they come out easily enough w/o the aid of grease.
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Hangjebrata
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« Reply #27 on: July 15, 2013, 04:46:37 AM »

Can you tell me the dimensions of Abu 6500 IAR
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Ken_D
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« Reply #28 on: July 16, 2013, 08:09:55 AM »

Hello. Best to measure the OD of the sleeve that the clutch acts upon, for an accurate ID measurement. Then you can easily measure the OD and the width of the clutch.

It's difficult to measure the ID of the clutch, as the needles and the race make it hard to get callipers, set right. Try 10 x 8 x 14.  Alternatively, you can search makers for a cross to the INA F223251 sized clutch.  
« Last Edit: July 16, 2013, 08:16:37 AM by Ken_D » Logged
fishingjack
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« Reply #29 on: February 12, 2014, 05:56:10 PM »

Wow, this is a nice thread.
My IAR bearing has been getting worse and worse on my 6500 chrome rocket. I pretty much expected it after a good amount of abuse pulling in some big mekong catfish in the 100 to 140lb range. I haven't used the reel on catfish for quite some time, just carp in England now but I guess the damage was done. The accelerated wear and tear has finally taken it's toll. In one particular location the AR bearing would have quite a lot of back play before it would lock. Taking the bearing out, one of the pins actually fell out so that explains it. When reeling in and lifting the sinker ready for another cast the handle would rotate backwards up to 5 full revolutions before locking. An absolute pain. It seemed quite random.

I ordered a bearing in the UK. They state that Abu use 14.1mm bearings, which are a very tight fit. The companies here provide 14mm bearings with loctite to make up for the 0.1mm difference. It is amazing because the stock bearing was quite difficult to dislodge. I don't have a vice or anything so I used a nut tightener with a hammer to tap the bearing out. Well it ended up being hammering it out because it was so tightly inserted. I took great care not to bend the side plate but in the end the neck/collar of the side plate got a bit mis-shapped.

Eventually it did come out. I used cardboard to absorb the impact of the hammer on the nut tightener, but because there was maybe 2mm difference in size between the tool used to hammer the bearing out and the neck of the abu side plate, it did move around and actually bend the neck out of shape from round to more like a hexagon after I was finished. I will post up images.

Anyway I have tried slowly tapping the neck of the side plate back to a round shape and it seems 99% the same as what it was.

Now the interesting thing is that the 14mm bearing provided will just drop straight through the neck without loctite. I am sceptical that the loctite is going to be strong enough to prevent the bearing spinning freely under high drags but we'll see. I coated the bearing outside in loctite and inserted it into the collar after having removed grease off both surfaces. Pretty quickly I could feel the loctite sticking and the bearing no longer wants to drop out. To align the bearing I pushed it as far as a little line inside the collar which seems to indicate how far up the bearing should be inserted. I hope I have done it right. There is a tiny cap between the bottom of the bearing and the bottom of the side plate. I spent ages looking for instructions. I couldn't find any, so I spent ages looking for high res pictures of abu side plates withe the IAR bearing visible from the inside. That's how I actually came across this post.

I am now waiting 24 hrs for the loctite to set at 100% strength before reassembling the reel to test it.

If the loctite cannot hold the IAR bearing still then I may need to try a stronger adhesive.

Fingers crossed that this all works.  Undecided

I searched the internet for a long time trying to find pictures and I actually found these posts after I had finished, as I wanted to share my experience. Typical  Cheesy
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