alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Fon-Nor Marquesa 16 Service
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Fon-Nor Marquesa 16 Service  (Read 30639 times)
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Daisy
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Barra, Billfish and Bigarsed Trevally.


« on: February 10, 2011, 10:01:14 PM »

Hi Alan and crew, I have been servicing my own reels at home now for a few years, much due to Alan's and others help thankyou very much Grin and now hope to help some one else. The Marquesa's have been out for a little while and despite looking the goods and being constructed from all the good stuff have failed to impress from all that I've read. They came on special at a large tackle store here in Oz and, needing a new med/heavy jigger, I deciced to take the gamble and managed to land the 16 for $288aud. This will be my first attempt at a tutorial so here goes.

Here's the tool kit, handle nut spanner and small star drive, note the cast aluminium rod clamp.




First remove the handle nut retaining screw then the handle nut with the tool provided.

Hmm the crank handle key is fairly small and thin walled, the handle is a tight fit so you may have rock it slightly to get it off. In oder there is a thin washer, a thick washer then

a bearing.

Making sure the drag is in the freespool position we'll now take out the drive side plate screws using the small star key provided.

I place these on the table in the same pattern they were removed, this is important especially if quality control is an issue.

Now slide the sideplate away from the frame and you should end up with this.

There are centrifugal weights on the Non-drive side of the spool that fall off so take these and the spool shaft pin (which will simply slide out) off and put aside.
Right lets do the frame.


First remove the click spring.


At this point I am thinking that the spool shaft retainer is part of the badge which counteracts the single piece frame and sideplates strength and precision uh oh!

Whew it's not the case
There is a drive side gear cover and the reel foot which are very rarely removed and are corrosion points due to electrolysis betwwen dissimilar metals, for these and the rod clamp bolts I am going to apply some Duralac to the threads and contact faces.


So off they come.

What's this, there appears to be some loctite already, I'll clean it out, the Duralac wil act as a loctite as well.

Duralac applied


A bit messy but easily wipes of while wet.


Replace badge.

Frame done.
Ok back to the drive side and spool, supporting the spool (it will fall off) undo the preset drag knob until it comes off, the spool will come away now.

What's this, only one drag knob clicker.

There's supposed to be two, seems to operate OK but I'll get another one anyway.

The main gear came away with the spool, nice solid, helical cut and stainless. Contrary to popular belief there's a bit of grease. The crank shaft slips out of the main gear chuck easily which may cause reassembly problems (remember stiff handle key). The bearing on the crank shaft can be treated Alan Tani style with one shield removed, cleaned out and this one packed with grease.

Same goes for this one.
There are copper shims between the bearing and the maingear on the crank shaft, the number of these will vary from reel to reel depending on the adjustment required, this one has 4.
Whoops turned drive plate over and this fell out.

this is the drag cam and is responsible for putting more pressure on as the drag lever is pushed up, we'll put it aside also ensuring the clicker springs (spring in my case) doesn't fall out. I can see a circlip holding the drag lever on but looking at the parts diagram I don't think I'll bother.

Under the side plate we can see the single back up anti-reverse dog who's responsible for that sweet clicking sound, also a bearing under the drag lever and the Instant anti-reverse roller bearing for the crank shaft. The bearing under the drag lever needs to be pulled and packed, the roller bearing you treat in situ with corrosion X.

Grease all inner side plate surfaces.
Righteo onto the spool and drag.

The drag plate and pinion (one piece) simply slides off the spool shaft with only a small bush and the drag release spring underneath


The drag plate certainly is solid and contains another bearing which needs the be pulled and packed also.

Here on the drive side of our spool is the dry carbon drag washer thankfully not glued down.

Remove retaining ring and washer and cover in cals drag grease wiping off excess, put washer and ring back in.

There are another 2 spool bearings within the spool assembly but I was unable to get at these due to some small hex headed screws (despite having full metric and imperial Allen key sets I could not find a fit) at the nondrive end of the spool so I oiled the drive side spool bearing in situ and will have to get to the other one later.

All to bits, now for reassembly. Firstly the drag release spring, small bush and drag plate/pinion slide onto the spool shaft.

The large crank shaft bearing and small spool shaft/drag lever bearing are placed in their respective places in the drive side plate

Slide the crankshaft/main gear in greasing all surfaces as you go.

Holding the dog back slide the spool/drag plate/pinion assembly back on releasing the dog at the last second so it sits against the pawl cog. Supporting the spoll from underneath turn the whole lot over and replace the bit that fell out, drag can assembly key 26 ensuring the drag lever is in the free position and the cam lugs under the drag cam assembly are located in the bottom of the drag levers cam ramps.

The top of the drab can and the recess it sits in on the drag lever should be almost flush, replace and tighten the preset drag knob.
Replace the bearing onto the crankshft supporting the crank shaft from below, this indicates the problem we're going to have putting on the handle. now place the thick washer the thin washer on top of this bearing.
Nows the tricky part, we need to hold the crank shaft in place while trying to get our tight fitting handle on. I used a screw driver to hold the crank shaft up in position while getting the handle on a little way then placinf the handle nut on and doing it up to finish the job, it worked but fiddly you may find a better way, so handle nut tight and handle retaing screw in, nearly there.
Now it's simply a matter of putting the casting weights in and spool shaft pin back on and sliding the whole thing back into the frame. Ensure that the casting weights are fully in and the spool shaft pin lines up. I found putting grease on the pin stops it from sliding around. Once it all slides together and feels good grease and replace the 4 sideplate screws and happy days we're ready to jig.

Hope you enjoyed my tutorial.

Cheers, Daisy




« Last Edit: February 12, 2011, 09:44:31 PM by Daisy » Logged

Aw c'mon sweetie? I only need one more reel :-D
Norcal Pescador
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« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2011, 10:18:24 PM »

 Smiley Nicely done! Goodonya! Smiley
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Rob

Measure once, cut twice. Or is it the other way around? Roll Eyes

"A good man knows his limits." - Inspector Harry Callahan, SFPD
alantani
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« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2011, 10:41:57 PM »

alot of guys have asked about this reel.  so, you've had good luck with the duralac so far?  the size of this reel looks similar to a shimano torium 20.  is that about right?  and your photo reminded me of something.  can i get you guys to start adding mug shots as avatars?  it would be nice to know what all of you look like!  all we got here was your forehead!   great post!  thanks a million!  alan

« Last Edit: February 10, 2011, 11:24:48 PM by alantani » Logged

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
wallacewt
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« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2011, 11:47:59 PM »

hi daisy,is that mr or mrs,or the other Grin   anyhow,in the very 1st photo,the clamp next to the plastic bag,can you flip it over for me.thats the part thats rusted on my 20.the clips.
gd tutorial, very clear photos thks
cheers
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kamuwela
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« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2011, 01:34:43 AM »

great job thank you very much
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Daisy
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Barra, Billfish and Bigarsed Trevally.


« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2011, 03:49:32 AM »

Thanks fellas, I realise now how much time and effort goes into these things.
Alan I'll get my avatar photo set up soon, the reel is about the same capacity as the Torium 16 but a little narrower and deeper, as for the duralac I've been using it on a few Avets that I service from time to time and it seems to be doing the job, really haven't got a solid benchmark on it yet. Undecided
Wallace, I suspected these may have been chromed instead of stainless (too shiny) but I thought they would have been at least brass
 I'll get the photo up tomorrow. I'd take a photo and email it to Fin-Nor customer service, they may not be aware of the problem.
Thanks again peoples.
Cheers, Mr Daisy  Grin
« Last Edit: February 11, 2011, 06:10:06 AM by Daisy » Logged

Aw c'mon sweetie? I only need one more reel :-D
wallacewt
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« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2011, 03:13:24 PM »

gday mr mick "daisy"day.thats a classic. ill give you a daisy a day dear.love it
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Daisy
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Barra, Billfish and Bigarsed Trevally.


« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2011, 11:53:52 PM »

'Sall good, well I dare say Fin-Nor are aware of this issue because my reel came with a rust free alternative, rubber "O" rings.

You can see it seated here.

and here's the bits, I'm just going to get rid of them.
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Aw c'mon sweetie? I only need one more reel :-D
wallacewt
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« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2011, 12:12:56 AM »

they spend $1000,s on development,machinery,then 2c on a clip that dont work.everyone is the same.the new andros has 2dogs with those silly cocker spaniel ears instead of spring loaded ones.by the way okuma,a good bump and they fall off and go under the gear!!!thats not all,the 2 screws that hold the clamp onto the frame has an 1/8th of an inch hole for the allen key and its covered in loctite.try to unscrew it and it strips.be careful alan makes you wild aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2011, 12:29:19 AM by wallacewt » Logged
Daisy
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Barra, Billfish and Bigarsed Trevally.


« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2011, 02:01:51 AM »

Yep it seems to be all the small things that get shortcutted or badly designed/fabricated that set budget priced gear apart from the high end stuff.
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Aw c'mon sweetie? I only need one more reel :-D
Roger
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« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2011, 03:15:43 PM »

"Reel" nice job............
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Roger

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."   Mark Twain
Daisy
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« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2011, 09:54:27 PM »

Edit, I sat and reread this through today and in my nitghtshift delirium picked up two bearings which should have been packed not oiled, the bearing on the inside of the gear assembly side cover under the drag lever (key #8) and the one in the drag plate assembly (key #17), my apologies if you have already used this tutorial Sad.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2011, 07:53:49 AM by Daisy » Logged

Aw c'mon sweetie? I only need one more reel :-D
kamuwela
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« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2011, 01:35:46 AM »

great job, minor over sight. thank you for the great work, keep it coming. Smiley
                                                 aloha
                                                  kamu
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Dave Bentley
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« Reply #13 on: June 14, 2012, 06:04:23 PM »

"Nows the tricky part, we need to hold the crank shaft in place while trying to get our tight fitting handle on. I used a screw driver to hold the crank shaft up in position while getting the handle on a little way then placinf the handle nut on and doing it up to finish the job, it worked but fiddly you may find a better way, so handle nut tight and handle retaing screw in, nearly there."

Hello Daisy,
I have found with my MA20 that if you put the handle on the shaft and hand tighten the nut (whilst holding the main drive gear), before you screw the RHS to the body the handle fits easily.
« Last Edit: June 14, 2012, 06:05:11 PM by Dave Bentley » Logged

Only believe that which you know to be true.
snappercatcher
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At sea...


« Reply #14 on: July 26, 2012, 05:11:05 PM »

I agree Dave, its the easiest way otherwise you can over tighten the handle nut, and bang it snaps. Then its a new crank Shaft and handle nut! Also beware the tiny screw and washer that is at top of the spool, its a reverse thread.
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