tired of getting damaged parts!

[Pro Reel]

Does anyone else have bad luck buying brass gears from parts dealers? It seams to me that almost no one is smart enough to pack them individually. I just got a pinion gears from southwest parts and they were in the same bag together. I don't know if they got damaged during shipping by being packed together or if it's how they are stored and handled at the store, but they were both rougher than the gears I was trying to replace. On inspection with a magnifying glass I can see several nicks or dents on the teeth edges. Southwest says send them back and they will replace them. That's just great, pay for the shipping back to them and hope the new ones are better. It's not just southwest either. I literally have a drawer full of damaged drive gears and pinions from various companies. I plan to send a bunch back at one time. The only company I can really give kudos to is shimano customer service. They individually wrap every gear in bubble wrap and then bag them. I still have gotten a few gears from them that had nicks in teeth edges but not nearly as many as from other brands departments and independent dealers. Am I alone in this problem or does the same thing happen to you guys. Just wondering if I have had a string of bad luck.

[Bryan Young]

I've had the same experience.  Shimano has been the best.  Each gear individually packaged.

[foakes]

Legitimate concern, Kevin --

When I am replacing gears -- either the main, pinion, worm pinion, or both -- even if brand new -- I run the wire wheel over them until satisfied that there is no rough spots.

Learned this from making car keys in the old days.

It is too much hassle and trouble for me to send them back -- just got to keep the line moving.

Some times when testing a rebuild -- it is easy to detect a bad spot or rough gear mesh -- just got to take it down again -- wire the teeth on both gears -- refit and test until silent and smooth.

New gears are notorious for this roughness -- since they are not broken in yet.

Of course, SS is harder and even tougher -- and makes noise -- but shipping issues are less.

Best,

Fred

[thorhammer]

gears recently from Scott's bagged individually.

[Pro Reel]

Legitimate concern, Kevin --

When I am replacing gears -- either the main, pinion, worm pinion, or both -- even if brand new -- I run the wire wheel over them until satisfied that there is no rough spots.

Learned this from making car keys in the old days.

It is too much hassle and trouble for me to send them back -- just got to keep the line moving.

Some times when testing a rebuild -- it is easy to detect a bad spot or rough gear mesh -- just got to take it down again -- wire the teeth on both gears -- refit and test until silent and smooth.

New gears are notorious for this roughness -- since they are not broken in yet.

Of course, SS is harder and even tougher -- and makes noise -- but shipping issues are less.

Best,

Fred

I have thought about trying to fix them, but wasn't sure of the method that would work. I was wondering about using an air etching tool with baking soda as a blast agent to polish them. Can you describe what you do exactly? Are you using a dremmel with brass wire brush?

[foakes]

I have a couple of stationary grinders.

On the variable speed Craftsman, one side has a soft brass 6" wheel brush -- and the other side a medium to soft steel wheel brush.

Dremel will work -- just takes way too long -- plus will waste a small wire wheel or brush.

Start with the brass -- if no joy -- move to the steel -- then back to the brass for a quick final touch up -- ultrasonic clean for 2 minutes -- regrease and install -- works 9 times out of ten for me.

There are more complicated solutions, using break-in oil cutting fluids, hand burnishing, etc..

This is just a quick and dirty fix -- but it works, and never has to be addressed again.

On many occasions with older conventionals, spinners, or baitcasters -- this is perhaps not recommended -- but I fasten the reel to one of my line winders with no grease on the gears -- just a couple of drops of syn oil -- set the foot control to run by itself with a brick for around 10 minutes at medium speed.  This is putting more positive wear on the gears then 20 years of steady fishing could do.  Then just clean and regrease -- smooth as butter -- and no more gear whining...

Best,

Fred

[Alto Mare]

If they're pretty rough I use grinding compound, It makes a mess, but to me well worth the effort.
Put the gears in, add lots of grinding compound on the main and pinion, assemble the reel and turn the handle with some drag.
I like to tie the line to a post, or anything you're able to, set the drag to about 5-10lbs and turn the handle for 50 times or so. Wait a little for the compound to get back in the groves and repeat .
When you open up the reel, that compound will be everywhere, you will need to take everything apart and clean.
You will proceed from there as you usually do when servicing the reel.
Forget about toothpaste, that has never help me.

Sal

[Alto Mare]

I just re-read your post Kevin you're talking about a whole shipment. At times scratches don't mean much if they feel right I would let them go. If they're willing to take them back that would be what I would do, unless they offer a nice discount.

[Pro Reel]

I just re-read your post Kevin you're talking about a whole shipment. At times scratches don't mean much if they feel right I would let them go. If they're willing to take them back that would be what I would do, unless they offer a nice discount.

Yes, I'm talking about gears that get here with nicks and dents on the teeth edges. Put them in a reel and you can feel the tick on every revolution. if it's the pinion you can feel several ticks on each crank. I tried fixing some before by gluing 2500 grit sand paper to a razor blade to make a super thin file. then under a magnifying glass I would try to file the bulge off the sides of the gear tooth that formed when the knife edge got dinged. It's worked a few times but most often I will still feel a tick from the fixed spot.