replace reel seat

[ScottOz]

Hi Guy's,I have to replace 2 broken real seats.1 is on a 7ft spin rod 6_8kg line and the other is on 10-15kg overhead rod about 6ft long.Is there a way to tell if this can be done from the but cap end or needs to be done from the tip end.I have another rod that is broken that I could use the metal reel seat for the overhead rod if it can be salvaged.Thanks.

[Marcq]

Hi Guy's,I have to replace 2 broken real seats.1 is on a 7ft spin rod 6_8kg line and the other is on 10-15kg overhead rod about 6ft long.Is there a way to tell if this can be done from the but cap end or needs to be done from the tip end.I have another rod that is broken that I could use the metal reel seat for the overhead rod if it can be salvaged.Thanks.

I find it easier by the but cap end

Marc..

[ScottOz]

Want to replace them from but cap end.Would not be worth me doing from tip end as would have to pay somebody as have no rodbuilding experience.Think I can do it from but cap end my self.Just want to find out if there is a way to tell before cutting any of the old grips off.
Thanks Scott

[STRIPER LOU]

X 2 from the butt end. The old reel seat can be carefully cut off using a hacksaw or a dremel with a cutoff wheel. Make the appropriate shims for under the reel seat, whatever you decide to use and epoxy in place along with the new seat.

I have a ton of cork tape from years ago so I put a wrap or 2 along the butt length and final cover with the new heat shrink that's available. There are many different ways to do this and probably everyone's is different but it all boils down to what you have on hand and how much time and money you want to sink into it.

Good luck with your project and lets us know how you make out.


best,  ...........Lou

[ScottOz]

Thanks Lou.Will start on the overhead rod first as it is not very expensive to replace if I mess it up.

[happyhooker]

When you say "overhead rod", I'm not sure what you mean.

[Dominick]

When you say "overhead rod", I'm not sure what you mean.

Scott is in Australia.  An overhead rod is a regular rod not a spinner.  Dominick

[Cor]

It would depend how the reel seat is mounted on the blank.    I usually fit my seat directly on to the tapered blank, without using a separate butt and I normally use a seat that fits fairly closely with the result that the diameter of the seat is less then the rear diameter of the blank.    So unless you cut the seat it, it can not be removed from the rear.

I would feel confident to carefully cut the reel seat and remove it that way and then fit a new seat somewhat larger then the original so it would fit over the rear end.   There may be reasons why this could not work, perhaps in the case of a very fast tapered blank the new seat will have to be to large!

If you are lucky, the rod builder may have fitted a butt to the blank which is not tapered and  it should then be possible  to remove the seat and replace it.

There is another complication, most reel seats are fitted using epoxy and you many then have no option other then cutting it.   I fit my reel seats using hotmelt glue for that reason.

I have replaced reel seats from both sides, but because of the way I build my rods, majority can not be done from the rear.

As long as you work very carefully not to damage the blank, you can try to remove it from the rear and should it not work, the worst scenario may be that you will need to remove the guides after all, or then have it done if you can not do it yourself.

Perhaps you should start by measuring the diameter of the seat and the diameter of the rear end of the rod to determine if the seat can be removed that way.

[happyhooker]

Those who use spinning rods for the most part would say they are the "regular" type of rod, and that casting/spin casting rods are something used by those other people who just wanna be old fashioned and that fly rods are used only be snooty fisherman.  Not me, of course, as I use all these types and can be old fashioned with my spinning rods and regular with my fly rods and snooty with my casting rods.  But, enough being a philosopher.  On to the real questions (just joshin', of course, and thanks for letting me learn something new about what an "overhead rod" is). 

I've worked on a few rods here and there--not an expert by any means.  What Cor says makes a lot of sense.  Many--perhaps most--spinning rods are made with a "through handle" blank, meaning the blank goes all the way through the handle and to the butt.  The blank is tapered, and is bigger in diameter at the butt than at the place where the handle is.  Many factors enter into things: 1) how gradual or sharp the taper is; 2) the length of the bottom grip part (a longer bottom grip allows the taper to run over a longer distance); 3) how much bigger the inside diameter of the grip is compared to the diameter of the blank (Cor expressed this).  Certainly you might get the old handle and grip off, whether by cutting or otherwise, but then getting a new handle and a bottom grip on is another story.  You might get a handle on, using a handle with a large enough inside diameter to get it over the bottom part of the blank, as Cor said.  A traditional cork grip almost, at least as far as I know, always has to be installed from the tip end of the rod.  A foam grip, or one of the newer stretchy materials, might stretch over the butt end of the blank and still fit tight enough on the blank itself to be acceptable; again, it will depend on the taper of the blank, what kind of material the new grip is made of, etc.

A few spinning rods (I'm thinking of a steelhead/salmon rod I have, and some others I've seen or heard about) do not have through handle blanks, but the blank is mounted on the handle end into a metal tube that runs through most of the handle; the blank is only a few inches inside the handle in the fore grip area.  These tubes are called "blank extensions" and the ones I've seen are not tapered; such a setup, I would guess, should allow replacement of the handle and the bottom part of the grip from the butt end of the rod.

Casting/spin casting rods, it seems to me, are more varied, with some through blank types, some with a butt ferrule that fits into the front end of the foregrip; some with a screw-on type of handle; some where the blank only goes part way into the handle, etc.  Not knowing what type of "overhead" rod we have here, it's hard to say what can be done, although I'm sure if it was just a matter of screwing off an old broken handle/grip assembly & putting a new one on, the question would not have been asked in the 1st place.

[ScottOz]

Thanks for the advice guys. Had a look see today and got the but cap off of the spin rod. The blank goes all the way to the butt and has a diameter of 20.5mm at the but end.A Fuji DPSD 22mm real seat would go over the butt and could be built up easy enough I believe. Now the rear grip is 250mm long.The rear grips that I have had a look at come with a 3/4 (19.1mm) or a 7/8 (22.2mm) id.Not sure if the 3/4would stretch over and not sure if the 7/8 would be to loose. Unsure what the diameter of the blank is under the reel seat.Trying to work all this out before I commit and start cutting. I did notice that there is some tape under the reel seat on the blank to build it up. All of this is for the 7ft spin rod, have put the overhead rod on hold for now.Cheers Scott.

[Swami805]

It's tough to get a grip that you can stretch enough to get over the end with a small enough diameter to fit at the base of the reel seat. Hypalon might work, EVA is too hard and doesn't stretch much. Bevel the end of the blank a little to help get it started. Also wrap the grip  in a wet towel and warm it up in a microwave to get it more pliable. Use plenty of epoxy and once on use some hose clamps or wire ties to apply pressure where it's loose so it will bond to the blank. Once completely cured use a heat gun or blow dryer to warm up the grip to get the creases out left by the clamps.
Plan "B". Use cork tape or tuna cord and cover it with heat shrink wrap and save some heartache.
No trick for the reel seat, build up arbors with masking tape with small gaps between and epoxy it on.
You could also use cork for the grip. Ream the cork out to go over the end of the blank and install like the reel seat. I've done that on rods with chewed up cork grips and although it's a fair amount of work it comes out nice.

[happyhooker]

Don't give up on 'er, ScottOz; keep looking at things, thinking--you'll come up with something & have a good feeling when you get things right!

[droppedit]

Hypalon might work, EVA is too hard and doesn't stretch much. Bevel the end of the blank a little to help get it started. Also wrap the grip  in a wet towel and warm it up in a microwave to get it more pliable. Use plenty of epoxy and once on use some hose clamps or wire ties to apply pressure where it's loose so it will bond to the blank. Once completely cured use a heat gun or blow dryer to warm up the grip to get the creases out left by the clamps.

I've done this many times with fairly good luck. I've found that if you can insert a smaller piece of a blank (large end into the butt) this will give you a ramp. Also remember to goop up the inside of the grip with plenty of epoxy, this will help it slide better. I've exploded a couple of grips in the micro wave so whenever possible I'll set the grip in the sunshine to heat it up. Make sure you have on old clothes and plenty of alcohol handy (for cleaning but sometimes you might find sour mash helps )


Dave

[happyhooker]

I forgot about the sour mash; almost the most impt. step, but if you forget it at the beginning, be sure to have some handy when you successfully complete the project!

Cheers!

Frank

[ScottOz]

Great advice. Mash before and after. During if it's not going to plan. Keep you posted.