Restoring anodized parts

[xjchad]

Is there a way to restore the finish on anodized parts?
I've been trying to find someone to re-anodize some parts for my 970 but all the quotes have been outrageous.
I'm trying to do the rings and a few other parts.






I'd love to get them all matching!
What do you guys think about powder coating or even painting them??

[Ron Jones]

I haven't tried it yet. But when I get set up this fall I will be cera-koting some of my reels. It has proven to be stupid strong. We took some SEALs for a ride and a few of them had coated there own gear and said nothing you can do at home would be better.
Ron

[oc1]

Google DIY anodizing.  You need battery acid, some other chemicals and a DC power supply.  Unless you completely strip the old anodizing and surface prep everything there would be no way to get a consistent color.  There was a guy here that described his set-up but he disappeared pretty quickly and I don't remember seeing any results.

If you paint it the results will look like an old reel that someone painted.
-steve

[xjchad]

I looked into the DIY anodizing and with 6 young children at home, I don't think I want to mess with that.  Not liking the quotes on the powder coating and cerakote either.  Looks like this build will be more of a rat rod reel LOL. 
Maybe not the prettiest on the outside, but it's what's under the hood that counts right?

[STRIPER LOU]

Chad, I have a project coming up with Moly Resin. I have not used it before but my friend Richard has with good results.

I'm planning on buying a cheap air brush as I don't want to ruin my good one. 8 oz runs around $35.00.

It will be a while but I'll let you know when I give it a shot.

Regard's,  ..  Lou

PS according to Richard, its cheaper, easier to work with, and more durable than Cerakote.

[xjchad]

Chad, I have a project coming up with Moly Resin. I have not used it before but my friend Richard has with good results.

I'm planning on buying a cheap air brush as I don't want to ruin my good one. 8 oz runs around $35.00.

It will be a while but I'll let you know when I give it a shot.

Regard's,  ..  Lou

Just googled it.  Looks very interesting, thanks Lou!

[foakes]

I haven't tried it yet. But when I get set up this fall I will be cera-koting some of my reels. It has proven to be stupid strong. We took some SEALs for a ride and a few of them had coated there own gear and said nothing you can do at home would be better.
Ron

Like Ron, I am also thinking about cerakote on a few reels.

Not sure what I will need, but it looks like it can be done at home with an airbrush, countertop toaster oven, etc.

Would be nice to do some Quicks, Mitchells, and Penns — in unique colors.

Best,

Fred

[Tiddlerbasher]

Lou sounds interesting (like most things you do) Keep us posted please

[ez2cdave]

I looked into the DIY anodizing and with 6 young children at home, I don't think I want to mess with that.  Not liking the quotes on the powder coating and cerakote either. 

Check this out . . .

https://hackaday.com/2011/10/17/anodizing-and-dying-aluminum-without-battery-acid/

http://www.observationsblog.com/sciencetechnologyexperiments/anodizing-and-dying-aluminum-without-battery-acid

Tight Lines !

[oc1]

That sodium bisulfate stuff is what I use to clean the corrosion and scale off of metal parts instead of using vinegar.  Jewelers call it pickling.
-steve

[sdlehr]

Yeah, Steve, I remember that post by that guy that disappeared, I don't think he showed an end result. I hope he's OK Sodium bisulfate is a stronger acid than is acetic acid. It is basically sulfuric (battery) acid that has already given up one of its two hydrogen atoms, so it's not as strong as sulfuric acid (which was the reason for its popularity in this process). It's still a relatively strong acid and needs to be used with great care. Exactly how strong it is depends on how much of the powder is used to make the working solution. That's basically all I can say without getting all technical about ionization constants and such. It's an improvement on the sulfuric acid technique because it is safer, but it probably takes a little longer to do its thing. As in all projects of this type, the end result will depend more on the initial prep than on the anodization process itself.

[Reel Beaker]

what happened to the anodization finish? IS it suppose to wear with use or was it like this since day 1?This plates are made of aluminium right? So they shouldnt rust but corrode right?

[Cortez_Conversions]

Most platers have a minimum lot charge. Same price for one part or as many fit on the dipping rack.
Your best bet would be to get together and group parts. First all the old anodize needs to be stripped. So if a few of you guys send your stuff in as one lot, you will split the lot charge among all the pieces. Once you get your stripped parts back you can body shop them as you see fit, sand, drill, mill, whatever, just no bondo or JB weld or and thing like that.  Next is the hard part... you all will need to group parts by color, because, again, there is the lot charge per color.
Hope this helps,
Tom

[sdlehr]

what happened to the anodization finish? IS it suppose to wear with use or was it like this since day 1?This plates are made of aluminium right? So they shouldnt rust but corrode right?

Rust is just another name for iron corrosion. Since they're not iron, they can't rust. You can substitute oxidation for corrosion and say the same thing as well.

[mo65]

   Why not just try painting the parts? If it turns out like crap it can easily be removed. I've had some pretty nice results with a spray can on reel parts. The way I see it, if I need shiny perfect anodizing I'll spring for a mint reel. If I'm just restoring an old warrior to do battle again...a coat of Rustoleum works just fine.