alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial progear albacore special
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: progear albacore special  (Read 37092 times)
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alantani
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« on: February 26, 2009, 11:46:59 AM »

i admit it. i've never had anything completely nice to say about any reel. well, i always try to find something positive, but the reason i'm working on a reel because broken. it always starts on the negative, never totally positive. that's about to change....
 
here's the link to the manufacturer.....
 
http://progearfishingreels.com/default.htm
 
schematics are not listed for every reel, so i'm going to wing it.
 
prior to this, the last albacore special i opened up was several years ago. i had lubed it up and switched out the composite drag washers for greased carbon fiber, and sent the reel on it's way. last month i was sent two albacore specials that were basically brand new. when servicing a reel, it is my standard to grease the screw holes, grease the non-exposed metal surfaces, lube the bearings, and install greased carbon fiber drags. i opened up the first reel and was pleasantly surprised that everything had already been done. i went through the second reel just to take pictures. you may have an older progear. a jumpy drag confirms this.
 
here is the progear albacore special.
 

 

 
you only have to back out two screws to remove the right side plate.
 

 
these screws have to be greased, and, son-of-a-gun, this screw has grease on it!
 

 
looking at the right spool bearing, you can't tell if it's dry, grease or lubed with an oil of some sort. i called progear later, and dan at progear tells me it's lubed.
 

 
i pulled the spool to check the left side bearing and clicker assembly. progear says this bearing is lubed, too. and it's obvious to see that the clicker assembly is greased.
 

 
reel seats, particularly on older reels, are commonly bolted on dry.
 

 
we've got grease....
 

 
and more grease.
 

 
and how many corroded handles and stars have you seen.
 

 
grease on top of the anti-reverse roller bearing will keep water out and help prevent failure of the primary anti-reverse mechanism.
 

 
three screw are all you need to separate the right side plate....
 

 
cleanly into two pieces.
 

 
here is a stack of greased carbon fiber drag washers. nothing for me to do here....
 

 
so back together it goes.
 

 
i was going to grease the inside of the right side plate, but it's greased already.
 

 
three screws again.
 

 
the bellevilles go back on.
 

 
the star.
 

 
the handle.
 

 
the handle nut and you're done!
 

 
the only thing you might add is a larger grip.
 

 
the handle grip is purely a personal preference, so i will certainly not count that against the reel. that's why i give this reel a perfect 10! :thumbsup:
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alantani
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« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2009, 12:26:08 PM »

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Alan, I just bought this reel to pair up with an OTI 7'6" 60-80# Class rod.  I want to be able to cast lures and baits to tuna and have the drag to really put the screws to them.  I'll be using 80# spectra.  The fishing I'm looking to do here in the gulf is throwing topwater lures and free lining live baits to YFT.  Probably a very similar style to how you west coast guys set-up your wahoo bomb setups.  Anyway, my question is what mods and upgrades do I need to make to get this reel to cast well without backlashing all the time and get the drag system up to par for 60-100# YFT?  Thanks in advance.  btw - I based alot of my decision on your write up on the Albacore Special on your website.



it's really easy to go broke in the restaurant business selling the best food in town.  well, that's what the progear guys did.  it's a great reel!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the drag washers should already be grease carbon fiber.  check them anyway.  

the screw holes and all the internal metal surfaces should already have a light coat of grease.  check that as well.  

the bearings are shielded and lubed with corrosion x from the factory.  here's where you have a decision to make.  if you want the longest casting distance, then remove the shields, clean out any grease or oil, lube it with xtreme reel + and re-install the bearings open.  you'll get the best distance this way, but it will backlash like crazy if you flub up your cast.  you can slow down the spool using the end cap screw.  that's not a good thing to do for the long run.  

an alternative would be to pack the bearings with grease and reinstall the bearing shields.  that will dramatically slow down the spool.  it will be fine for casting heavy iron or bombs and it will be tough to bird's nest the spool, but it will definitely cut down on your casting distance.  

presonally, i think your best bet would be to go for the open bearings with a light lube.  don't apply too much pressure when you chuck that bait out and let you thumb be the brake.  it will take a bit of practice, and you will definitely have to pick out a backlash or two, but i believe that this will give you the best results.  want to see how it's really done?  get on any san diego 5 to 10 day boat and watch the deckhands!  good luck!  alan


« Last Edit: November 04, 2009, 12:26:54 PM by alantani » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2010, 03:52:41 PM »

Quote

Classic
255 270yds 20#, 5:1 gears
251 350yds 20#, 5:1 gears
545 350yds 25#, 4:1 gears
541 375yds 30#, 4:1 gears
454 300yds 30#, 4:1 gears
440 400yds 40#, 4:1 gears
441 475yds 40#, 4:1 gears

Pacifica
2000 425yds 25#, 5:1
2500 375yds 25#, 5:1
3000 400yds 30#, 4:1
3500 375yds 30#, 4:1

Albacore Specials
280 300yds 20#, 6:1
282 425yds 20#, 6:1
540 350yds 30#, 5:1 or 3.6:1
542 450yds 30#, 5:1 or 3.6:1
461 300yds 50#, 5:1

Oceanus 30 325yds 30#, 4.9:1
Oceanus 40 300yds 40#, 4.9:1


Quote

Albacore Special® Series (Gunmetal is the Standard Color)
** Click on image at left for larger view **

Introducing the all-new Albacore Special® Series. These models deliver and then some. These reels are unbeatable in their class. They feature a new precision-machined and hard-anodized aluminum bridge plate, four ball bearings and one anti-reverse roller bearing, combined with a dog system to create a strong and positive anti-reverse. They have a large manganese bronze alloy main, gear and a heat-treated stainless steel pinion gear.
The smooth oversized drag system of the Albacore Special® Series delivers 30+ lbs of drag pressure, which provides more than enough stopping power needed for almost any saltwater gamefish and yet still remain smooth.
Whether you're fishing for amberjack, albacore, yellowtail or offshore tuna, the Albacore Special® reels are definitely the reels for you and a must on any trip.

Specs
ABS280S-7 - 6:1 Ratio | Wt. 22oz | Capacity 300 yrds/20lb mono - $349.00

ABS282S-7 - 6:1 Ratio | Wt. 24oz | Capacity 425 yrds/20lb mono - $362.00

ABS540S-7 - 5:1 Ratio | Wt. 24oz | Capacity 350 yrds/30lb mono - $349.00

ABS542S-7 - 5:1 Ratio | Wt. 26oz | Capacity 450 yrds/30lb mono - $362.00


The NEW Classic Series has the features which have made the original series so popular with serious anglers, along with the added benefit of engineering enhancements that result from eight years of production experience.
• True one piece machined aluminum frame
• Three screw take down end cap
• Oversized Lubri-drag wet drag system
• Manganese bronze-alloy main gear
• Heat-treated stainless pinion gear
• Heat-treated spool shaft
• Three S/S ball bearings
• One anti-reverse roller bearing
• Hard-anodized corrosion resistant bridge plate
• Limited lifetime warranty on the frame
These reels are "Simply the Best."
Specs

CS501-6 - 6:1 Ratio | Wt. 18oz | Capacity 350 yrds/15lb mono - $199.00
CS5551-6 - 6:1 Ratio | Wt. 20oz | Capacity 400 yrds/20lb mono - $199.00
CS600-6 - 5:1 Ratio | Wt. 22oz | Capacity 275 yrds/25lb mono - $229.00
CS625-6 - 5:1 Ratio | Wt. 23oz | Capacity 300 yrds/30lb mono - $239.00
CS650-6 - 3.6:1 Ratio | Wt. 24oz | Capacity 380 yrds/40lb mono - $249.00
CS700-6 - 3.6:1 Ratio | Wt. 30oz | Capacity 300 yrds/40lb mono - $249.00
CS750-6 - 3.6:1 Ratio | Wt. 36oz | Capacity 300 yrds/50lb mono - $249.00



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« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2013, 01:42:01 PM »

Pro Gear Reel C/S 650 Fishing Reel " New "

Anyone know the specs for this reel?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Gear-Reel-C-S-650-Fishing-Reel-New-/151057795244
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Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B
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« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2013, 01:56:40 PM »

scroll down the page and you'll see the specs...btw the seller was the owner of Pro Gear.
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« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2013, 02:18:26 PM »

thanks

The 3.6:1 gear ratio is kind of low, isn't it?  I think my squall is 6.2:1 and the GT 4:1?
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« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2013, 06:30:32 PM »

That's a beautiful reel. Would last a lifetime.
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« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2015, 08:46:42 PM »

how do i pull the bearing out that is in the 5th picture?
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eldoradoman
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« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2015, 05:41:54 PM »

I don't think those bearing are pressed in.  Let me know if you didn't find the answer and I will take my apart to check it out this week.
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MarkT
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« Reply #9 on: August 29, 2015, 05:48:39 PM »

how do i pull the bearing out that is in the 5th picture?
You press the pin out then the bearing slides right off.
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« Reply #10 on: October 31, 2015, 11:25:38 AM »

How do I remove the all-thread from the reel? With the long all-thread on the reel, I can only clamp the reel to a rod with a larger diameter reel seat. I can't clamp it to any rods with a smaller diameter reel seat.
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handi2
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« Reply #11 on: October 31, 2015, 02:44:01 PM »

How do I remove the all-thread from the reel? With the long all-thread on the reel, I can only clamp the reel to a rod with a larger diameter reel seat. I can't clamp it to any rods with a smaller diameter reel seat.

You can put 2 nuts on the threaded stud and tighten them together with 2 wrenches. With the 2 nuts jammed together you can now turn them to remove the stud. Hopefully the stud will come out easily.
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JimmyH
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« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2015, 03:00:13 PM »

How do I remove the all-thread from the reel? With the long all-thread on the reel, I can only clamp the reel to a rod with a larger diameter reel seat. I can't clamp it to any rods with a smaller diameter reel seat.

You can put 2 nuts on the threaded stud and tighten them together with 2 wrenches. With the 2 nuts jammed together you can now turn them to remove the stud. Hopefully the stud will come out easily.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that before I cut the stud with a dremel to shorten them.
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Jtijerina125
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« Reply #13 on: November 10, 2017, 11:42:27 AM »

Is there schematics available for a 282 albacore special?
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #14 on: November 10, 2017, 12:33:58 PM »

Is there schematics available for a 282 albacore special?

I don't believe so.  The AS282 is the same as the AS280 except has a narrower frame and spool.  does this tutorial help?  Do you have any questions?
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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