jigging master pe4

Started by hafnor, August 10, 2011, 02:10:38 AM

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hafnor

So I bought myself another JM and this one I got from 360tuna.com by a former member. It was barely used. The first thing I noticed was that it made another sound than my other jm's when cranking the reel. My first suspicion was right. one of the two dogs had lost contact with the spring, so only one dog was meshing. Thankfully I found the wire that conected the spring and after a while I managed to assemble it and get it back on track. I tried making this rebuild more structural so enjoy. 108 pics to come!

What you need is pretty much a small torx, different screw drivers, a c ring plier and a wrench. a torx is provided by JM so thank you!

I am trying a mix og greases here, daiwa reel grease inside the house and daiwa drag grease on the washers (I am out of cal's that I got from Alan). and reelX on the bearings. (sorry I did not open them but I figured since the reel was tip top shape I figured I would get away with some reel X)

out of the box it put up about 45-50 seconds. Lets see after reelX is used on those bearings. Enjoy!



my table of tools. pretty much a lot of grease, some standard tools, and a cleaning agent.


the reel and parts provided by JM. Check out that cute torx!


before doing anything remember to tape the spool and mark an arrow for the line going out (so you will assemble it back right)


first off is the reel seat and clamp screws. use umbraco on the reelseat and a wrench on the clamp screws.



salt!


into cleaning agent (high alcohol cleaner)


off with the clamp screws, nasty stuff too. be careful there is a retainer on each of them.



after cleaing and whiping into a clean surfice, grease the area.


add some grease on all the screws (clamp  and reel seat screws)



assemble it tightly back on.


now on to the reel guts. I used the JM torx. (this will help you not screwing it back in too tight since thiese screws are tiny)


four screws off and the main frame goes out separating it from the side frame and spool.


remove the plastic clicker to get a neat surfice to clean and grease.


once the house is clean add a film of grease. I used daiwa reel grease. much like the cals drag grease but a little lighter.


after greasing the house I put some reelX in the closed bearing. This bearing is locked with a strong retainer ring.


screw the clicker assembly back in and grease that too. frame house is then done!


too seperate the spool from the gear frame you first take off the preset screw. (I used a penn tool I got from Alan ;D)


remove the drag cam screw with a star wrench. You have to Tighten the drag pretty much to do so.


out goes the drag cam and the lever assembly goes out freely. there is a plastic washer behind it, and a bearing inside the drag cam.



now seperate the spool from the gear house.


all main components disassembled


back to the lever drag (all parts are cleaned in cleaning solution and greased axcept the bearing that I used reelX



the metal washer with dog and main gear is removed



careful when pulling out the sleeve. The is a spring there and inside the ingraving on the spool there is a bearing


on the other side remove the drag washer shields



pull out the sleeve



as you pull out the sleeve the bearing and spring is attached on the sleeve but not on the other side so the spring and bearing will fall out. Be careful here!


the spool system semi-disessembled.


I added reel X on the bearings and the sleeve



check out the freespooling sleeve (clean and use light oil)


remove retainer and washer with a thin screwdriver. be careful the carbon can easily be torn apart!



add a thin coat of grease. I used daiwa drag grease.



I also turned the disks and added some grease. Then brush it evenly out and wipe off excess.



now same on the other side. this is a dual drag reel



back on with the spring first, then the bearing.



grease the outside of the washer


and of course clean the metal washer.


back on with the gear assembly and grease well.



back on with the shield and the spool is done.


now on to the main gear assembly, remove the three screws with a star screwdriver


Now turn the reel around and screw out the handle cap, then the safety ring and then the handle nut.






off goes the handle. there is a plastic washer and a metal ring behind the handle and a metal ring on the outside of the handle where the handle nut is mounted, careful!



now you can pull out the main gear



now remove the sleeve that holds the ar bearing and two rollers with a star screw driver


I could not get any of the bearings out of this thing so I took a shortcut and added some reelX on inside it after cleaning the best I could


Now let that rest and go onto the gear house, and clean and lube it up well. First off is the bearing I used reelX.





grease the Ar bearing sleeve and put back in.



then you put the main gear back in


and screw the cover back on. remember the washer inbetween, and grease it well


Now that the gear is mounted nice and tight. Go on to the other side and start assembling the handle again. first metal ring then plastic washer


slide the handle into place and screw the handle nut tight back on


then retainer


then the cap. screw the torx back on tight. note that there is an ingraving inside this so you have to match it with the screw from the retainer to make it fit.


Now slide the spool back in


assemble the spool and gear plate with the house. (use the JM torx so you wont put too much pressure on those small things


add the plastic washer


put the lever assembly back on in free position


then the drag cam ( allign it with the ingravings inside the lever assembly


in with the bearing


on with the spool screw



and the outside nut


now last thing before it's a wrap is the handle. remove the fancy golden nut with a c ring plier. (clockwise)


remove the umbraco screw btw. check out the salt. That screw was tough to get out. A lot of salt made it hard.



clean!



pull out the female that connects the t-bar to the handle arm. and clean, grease it outside and in.


remove the main screw to the handle (clockwise) and the screw that goes from the t-bar(anti clockwise)



then all you have is the inside shaft and a bearing.


add some reelX on that cute thing


and add grease on it all


back on with the outside sleeve and align the female bolt inside the shaft so you can mount the t-bar knob.


then slide in the t- bar and screw it tight back on. It may take some time to align the female with the bolt that goes through. A tip is to add a lot og grease it gets sticky, that way it wont slide around.


back on with the gold nut (sorry forgot to take photo) And you are done!



After this I got around a minute freespool. Not that impressed but okey I guess.

Sorry for the bad English. I do not know what all the parts are called. please give pointers! best regards from Norway.

























alantani

hafnor, are you certain that the blue daiwa grease is intended for drags?  it has to be a teflon product! 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Clem


Hi Hafnor,

Try removing the shields on the spool bearings..

I removed mine on my PE3 and 5N - I cleaned them in white spirit spun them up a few times and then dried them off..added 2 drops of ReelX to each and spun them a few times, once they had sat a while I blew out the excess with air, will spin for approx 2 mins..if that is not overly important to you, just don't blow them out..

By the way do you have PE7 or 8? just curious as to the size of the pinion (my PE3 and 5N are the same, 7 mm x 7 mm - at the handle)


hafnor

Quote from: alantani on August 10, 2011, 03:19:09 AM
hafnor, are you certain that the blue daiwa grease is intended for drags?  it has to be a teflon product! 

Wow, right now I got really uncertain and scared. I was told it was in a store but there is no content information on it... how would I know? I have to get some cal's I guess.

Hi Hafnor,

Try removing the shields on the spool bearings..

I removed mine on my PE3 and 5N - I cleaned them in white spirit spun them up a few times and then dried them off..added 2 drops of ReelX to each and spun them a few times, once they had sat a while I blew out the excess with air, will spin for approx 2 mins..if that is not overly important to you, just don't blow them out..

By the way do you have PE7 or 8? just curious as to the size of the pinion (my PE3 and 5N are the same, 7 mm x 7 mm - at the handle)

I have a pe8 and a pe6 that I could check out. You mean the pinion that goes through the spool or the handle arm length? because I added that to your pe5n post If I am not mistaking

Clem


alantani

something to bear in mind, and i mean no disrespect to your local tackle guy, but there is a possibility that you know more about field stripping and servicing a reel than he does........   :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Clem

I agree with Alan..Boca do a teflon based grease, white in color..quite messy though

hafnor

Quote from: alantani on August 10, 2011, 04:18:52 PM
something to bear in mind, and i mean no disrespect to your local tackle guy, but there is a possibility that you know more about field stripping and servicing a reel than he does........   :-\

Okey. Thank you than Alan. So all I do is just clean off as much grease I can and replace with cal's?

Just out of curiosity, what is the worst thing that can happen to my reel when using wrong grease?

hafnor

Quote from: Clem on August 10, 2011, 03:29:53 PM
Hi..the through the handle

Sorry for this but I do not know what you mean... ??

alantani

the drags might stick.  if you clean off the old grease with an old towel, then apply new grease and work that out as well, i'll bet you should be fine.  alan
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Clem

Hi Hafnor

Sorry I meant to say where the handle attaches to the pinion or handle shaft,

hafnor

#11
So I did what I was told. I removed all the grease on the carbonfiber drag discs and I took off all the shield in every bearing except the two roller bearings inside the handle shaft. I bathed them in white spirit, spun them around, used air to remove old grease and repeated. After that I added some reel X on those bearings and slapped it back in. I did not put the shield back on so the reel feels sort of voulnerable, but I check my reels after every trip so now it is easy to clean the bearings. Now on to the freespool time. I could not believe this. That reelX is magic, pure magic. Thank you clem for the great advise and you Alan for taking time warning me on that grease trouble I had. The freespool now is astonishing. 2,05mins of freespool. Imagine the casting length on that thing. WOW. I am amazed. Again Thank you. All I need now is some cal's and I will be good to go.

One thing tho. Should I pack the other bearings with grease except the spool bearings. Just to be safe?

Best regards from Norway.

Hafnor

alantani

yes, packing the bearings would be best.  can you send me a pm with your address?  thanks!  alan
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

hafnor


dudiv

Hi All!
Where do i can find the J.M reel schematic PE concept?
regards,
Dudi