alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial INSTALLATION OF MECHANICAL ANTI-REVERSE ON IAR MODELS.
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: INSTALLATION OF MECHANICAL ANTI-REVERSE ON IAR MODELS.  (Read 10955 times)
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Ken_D
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« on: August 20, 2011, 07:50:23 AM »


http://www.fiskesnack.com/forum/showthread.php/81740-Fett-olja-diskmedel-och-fotogen-Mysig-afton-med-en-livskamrat      near the bootom of the thread.

http://shop.lundgrensfiske.com/product.asp?product=12012&lang=uk   you can buy just the posts. the dogs are available over here no problem.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2012, 08:34:17 AM by Ken_D » Logged
Mooki
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« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2011, 12:37:00 PM »

Can't you buy the posts directly from ABU?
Where I live the posts can be bought from Pure Fishing Service (and by the way, I've also bought the IAR bearing from there aswell).
Just curious... Smiley
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Ken_D
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« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2011, 09:13:17 PM »

The posts, nope, the iar brgs, yup.  Abu is basically two divisions now: The Americas, and the rest of the planet.
I understand it's 51% Purefishing/Jarden, 49% god-knows-who.

The "international" stuff is not available in the Americas. Must be sourced from the eeb, eh, or from folks living outside the Americas somewhere. And no spare parts stocked here for the international stuff.

The dog posts are not a seperate part over here. They all seem to show as part of the brake plates, and not seperate on any schematic I've ever seen, for the round 1.5-2.5-4-5-6-7-10 reels.

What's the part number for them over there? Maybe it's some sort of secret, and ~actually~ available over here somehow.

« Last Edit: April 06, 2012, 10:45:48 AM by Ken_D » Logged
Mooki
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« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2011, 02:36:55 AM »

#20557 is the post
#5134 is the AR-dog by itself
#22014 is the IAR Bearing

Last time I ordered the prices (converted from SEK) were approx.
#20557 cost $1.6
#5134 cost $4.2
#22014 cost $17
Damn that IAR is pricey compared to what you pay  Undecided
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Ken_D
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« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2011, 07:45:30 AM »

Hi, Mooki....the post is a non-starter...it does not show. I tried to order some online from Southwestern parts, and Mikes, and they came back with no such number. The a/r dog you show is 2.27 USD

There's a slightly lower one: 5579 @ 1.53 USD.  (Scope out the wayback Cardinal 70 spin drawing. That's where I spotted it.)

The bearing used to had for 5.00 USD from Motion Industries in Chicago, if you bought 250 of them.
Jack Erskine in Australia also sells them for 10 USD.

The usual modus operandi is to buy good used plates from various reduction houses on the eeb,eh? like gilbertspaylakinky, and either remove the bearing, or just use the different plates.
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Mooki
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« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2011, 05:57:28 AM »

Hmmm, PITA that PF an Co won't sell the same parts to everyone  Angry
ABU Svängsta has been very helpful when it comes to helping me with the parts I need  Smiley

I checked my spread sheet and apparently I have previously ordered using an alternative P/N... #22829

When comparing the two parts (as declared on the invoices) there seems to be a slight difference in the measurements.
#20557 Stift Dia. 2,90x4,35mm (roughly translates to "Post diameter 2,90x4,35mm")
#22829 Stift Mässing D5/d2.9/d2.5 (roughly translates to "Post Brass D5/d2.9/d2.5")
Can't say that I've noticed any difference in actual use though, I've used both kinds in different reels without realising the parts differed.

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Ken_D
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« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2011, 08:20:07 AM »

We should do a swap....I should send you some iar brgs, and you should send me some posts !! Grin Grin
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GulfOfBothnia
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« Reply #7 on: August 28, 2011, 01:02:11 PM »

It's in Finnish, but the pics tell all.   the other link is to a shop that sells posts if you don't want to make your own.

http://www.suomenhaukiseura.com/valineet/vavat/jerkkikelan_viritys.html

http://shop.lundgrensfiske.com/product.asp?product=12012&lang=uk   you can buy just the posts. the dogs are available over here no problem.

The first link seems to be outdated?
Did anyone capture those pictures that have been on the link?

I would be interested to see how those posts are seated...

I can later try to find the pictures since it seems that there is a website upgrade going on in that "suomenhaukiseura".
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Ken_D
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« Reply #8 on: August 28, 2011, 04:12:25 PM »

The link was just fine on August the 20th, when I put it up. 8 days later, she's toast. The power of the web... Cool
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Mooki
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« Reply #9 on: August 29, 2011, 03:46:56 AM »

We should do a swap....I should send you some iar brgs, and you should send me some posts !! Grin Grin
Next time I order I can get you a couple of posts if you wish  Wink
Let me know in that case and we'll sort something out.

The link was just fine on August the 20th, when I put it up. 8 days later, she's toast. The power of the web... Cool
I wrote a small tutorial on a Swedish forum regarding the posts (how they're mounted), it's post #6 in the following thread.
http://www.fiskesnack.com/forum/showthread.php/81740-Fett-olja-diskmedel-och-fotogen-Mysig-afton-med-en-livskamrat...

A rough translation of the text...

Mounting a mechanical AR:
Tools needed:
Center punch
M6 threaded bolt (or similar blunt object)
Drift punch 4mm (like a center punch but flat instead of pointed)
Sledge hammer
"Anvil" with a drilled hole (3mm)
Pic #1

Fit the post in the brake plate (the hole is graded from the underside).
Pic #2

Place the post and brake plate in the drilled hole of the anvil (upside down), a couple of gentle taps with the center punch and sledge hammer will fixate the post.
Time for the M6 threaded bolt.
The reason for using the bolt is that a center punch will drift while punching, take a bolt and grind it just slightly pointed and round of the point.
A couple of solid hits with the sledge hammer and bolt will seat the post quipte firmly.
Using the drift punch make sure that the deformed brass is level with the underside of the brake plate.
Important note: The underside must be perfectly level!
Use a flat object to check that the post does not protrude from the underside.
Pic #3

Doublecheck that there is no gap between the frame and brake plate when mounted.
Pic #4

Probably a couple of translation errors, but hopefully you get the gist by studying the pics  Grin
« Last Edit: August 30, 2011, 12:57:42 AM by Mooki » Logged

Something like 40 BCs, mostly ABU. Still counting upwards...
GulfOfBothnia
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« Reply #10 on: August 29, 2011, 06:59:59 AM »

Great pictures Mooki.

Do you have any suggestion how to build up an anvil for this purpose?

I have one in my carage but not gonna drill a hole in it.  Roll Eyes
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Ken_D
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« Reply #11 on: August 29, 2011, 10:37:21 AM »

Flat punch: can be called a drift punch, or a roll pin punch.  Nice job, on the tutorial, M. 

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Mooki
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« Reply #12 on: August 30, 2011, 12:50:49 AM »

@Ken_D
Thanks! There was a lot of whining in the Swedish community regarding the lack of tutorials in Swedish - so having a camera I decided to fill the gap  Wink

Great pictures Mooki.

Do you have any suggestion how to build up an anvil for this purpose?

I have one in my carage but not gonna drill a hole in it.  Roll Eyes

Actually the anvil is an incorrect translation, something heavy and sturdy that won't deform too much under pressure.
In reality I use a 4mm (1/6") steel sheet glued on top of a block of wood with a hole drilled right through.
Try to keep the brake plate level when letting loose with the sledge hammer  Grin
One could also drill a couple of more holes for the other posts on the brake plate and add a couple of small shims to level the brake plate, if you're planning on doing lots of AR upgrades it might be worth the hassle.
« Last Edit: August 30, 2011, 12:55:09 AM by Mooki » Logged

Something like 40 BCs, mostly ABU. Still counting upwards...
alantani
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« Reply #13 on: August 30, 2011, 09:18:10 AM »

if you wanted to take any of the tutorials on this board and translate them, it would absolutely not be a problem.  if you do, though, please post a link.  it would be fun to read!!!!!
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Mooki
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« Reply #14 on: August 30, 2011, 12:01:18 PM »

if you wanted to take any of the tutorials on this board and translate them, it would absolutely not be a problem.  if you do, though, please post a link.  it would be fun to read!!!!!
Thanks!
I'll admit that I've already pointed a few fellows in this direction when it comes to Shimano and Revo tutorials.
I believe that in order to do a comprehensible translation I would have to perform at least one strip down of the reel so I know what I'm talking about - I've actually thought about doing a "Revo-torial" as that is regularly requested (actually any ABU LP, but the only LP I own is a Revo SX).
If I do a "C&P" of yours I'll be sure to post a referring link and drop a note to you aswell  Wink
The Shimanos I'll leave to those that own them  Grin (I'll still keep pointing people this way though...)
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