drill bits

Started by Donnyboat, November 22, 2018, 02:02:32 AM

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Donnyboat

Hi just watching TV, they were advertising, does it all drill bits, by renavator, anyone used them, welcome any feed back thank, cheers Don.
Don, or donnyboat

Dominick

Donny thanks for the question.  I too am interested in what are the best drill bits.  I broke one the other day and I was surprised by the way it shattered.  We await some direction from some of the machinists on the site.  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

Tiddlerbasher

For the last few years I have only used HSS-Co drill bits (5-8% Cobalt). They go through anything including hard stainless. They keep their edge better than just HSS and are a lot more heat tolerant. They are slightly more expensive but worth it. I like my taps to be HSS-Co as well (when I can get them - not always easy). Aside from very large drill bits I avoid the ordinary carbon steel ones.
There are several excellent machinists on this site whom I'm sure will chip in :)

Glos

Lidl store chain has good ones.
Luck is when good preparation meets opportunity.

RowdyW

I to use cobalt drills especialy on stainless steel. Titanium nitride coated bits are ok for mild steel. When drilling ss use a slower speed with steady firm pressure.       Rudy

Tiddlerbasher

Rudy makes a good point - for stainless lower speed and heavier pressure is the way to go - I also use cutting or cooking oil (rape seed). For aluminium I use WD40.

RowdyW

An industrial water soluable oil works well also. It can be applied with a brush or a steady misting.

swill88

#7
I used these my last 10 years in the trade.
A superior product.
Doesn't mean they can't break.
(work on your technique)
Sold in the best hardware stores or online many places.

http://triumphtwistdrill.com/

Steve


Donnyboat

Thanks for all the good info everyone, I was asking about the does it all set, as the one bit is supposed to drill masonry, ceramic, hard steel including, SS, & timber, I have a small set of P&N number 2 set, that I think are mild steel bits, although with slow speed I am drilling through SS okay, but I have had this set for many years, so it is time I replaced them. as some bits are broken. cheers Don.
Don, or donnyboat

Tiddlerbasher

I have a simple philosophy - Hss(Co) for metal, SDS tct for masonry, diamond coated for ceramic/glass, almost anything will drill wood but why not use the correct drill bit????

Three se7ens

Avoid carbon steel drill bits unless you are drilling wood.  For everything else, get HSS or cobalt.  Carbon steel will lose its temper first time it gets too hot, and it will never hold an edge after, even with sharpening.  HSS will hold its temper through cherry red heat, and they are still somewhat flexible/forgiving.  Cobalt is harder and holds an edge better, but is more brittle.  Cobalt generally works better in stainless and other tough alloys, but HSS is more forgiving. 

Stainless (and titanium, and a number of other metals) work harden.  So if you are drilling without making chips, you are only making the material harder.  The name of the game here is slow and heavy pressure.  Keep in mind, this is all relative.  A 1/4" drill but still needs to run faster, and with less pressure than a 1" drill bit. 

I could get complicated with speed/feed charts like machine shops use, but its not necessary.  Shops need to make money, and weigh productivity vs tool life.  For everyone else, its usually better just to go slower and get far longer tool life.  So go slow enough and heavy enough to get a good, consistent chip from the drill.  That will get you close enough for most. 

mhc

#11
Hi Don, There's already very good advice here from other members about drill types and techniques for different materials so I'll just give my 2 bobs worth on the 'Renovator Does It All Drill Bit Set'. I haven't seen the TV add or used one of the drill bits but after a bit of searching on the web I will go out on a limb and suggest they won't work well in any material. If it was me, I would just replace the broken or worn out sizes in your P&N set as you need them and if it's a size you use often buy a couple.

Mike  
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Donnyboat

Thanks Chris,Adam & mike, I have been drilling stailess steel, with holes between 3/8 & 1/2 FOR MOUNTING MY ROCKLOBSTER POT WINCH, THE BIT WAS`NT DRILLING TILL I STARPENED IT, THEN IT WENT VERY GOOD, NOT THATi KNOW MUCH ABOUT SHARPENING THEM, YOU MAY SEE THE FRAME i AM TALKING ABOUT, WHEN I GET IT FINISHED, I MIGHT HAVE TO LEAN ON my  mate Mike TO PLACE THE PICTURES ON THE FORUM, CHEERS Don.
Don, or donnyboat

foakes

#13
This works for me in HSS for metal.

For wood I use brad point, these HSS, or Forstner bits.

The thing I like about the Grizzly set is the indexed metal case where you can see exactly the size — and if I break one — just pull out another.

Occasionally, if you are on their mailing list — they offer these on sale for around $135.  Even at regular price, they are inexpensive enough though.

To answer your question directly — I would be hesitant and wary about a "do it all" bit.  Best to match the bit to the material being drilled.

Best,

Fred
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Dominick

Thanks Fred.  On your recommendation I checked out Grizzly.  They have smaller sets than the one you show.  I might go for only a few drill bits as I don't use a lot.  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.