PE Ratings

Started by Reel Beaker, January 05, 2019, 01:19:25 PM

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Reel Beaker

So i was strolling in my local tackle shop when i saw a rod with P.E ratings. What do i need to know about P.E ratings to buy line and rods?
Are all braided lines PE?
https://www.oceanbluefishing.com/pe-rating-fishing-line-diameter-chart/
Am i right to say that the lines on the picture in this website are PE 4,5,6 and 8 respectively?

sdlehr

Sid Lehr
Veterinarian, fishing enthusiast, custom rod builder, reel collector

boon

PE relates to the nominal diameter of the line. It used to offer a reasonable rule of thumb that the PE size times 10 gave you the approximate breaking strain in pounds, however with modern braids that doesn't really hold true any more. Typically PE4 will break around 50lb and PE8 out around 100.
Even with these rules of thumb, it's not really a useful thing to rate a rod by (and yet many manufacturers still do) because of the significant variance in line strengths of the same diameter.
I will add that most of the time rods rated in PE tend to be lure fishing rods, and the weight of lure they are rated for may give you a better approximation of the rod's action, lifting power etc. Some high-end jigging rods will give you a fighting drag rating which can also be used to infer what strength line makes sense to be using with that rod.

Reel Beaker

Quote from: boon on January 06, 2019, 03:06:36 AM
PE relates to the nominal diameter of the line. It used to offer a reasonable rule of thumb that the PE size times 10 gave you the approximate breaking strain in pounds, however with modern braids that doesn't really hold true any more. Typically PE4 will break around 50lb and PE8 out around 100.
Even with these rules of thumb, it's not really a useful thing to rate a rod by (and yet many manufacturers still do) because of the significant variance in line strengths of the same diameter.
I will add that most of the time rods rated in PE tend to be lure fishing rods, and the weight of lure they are rated for may give you a better approximation of the rod's action, lifting power etc. Some high-end jigging rods will give you a fighting drag rating which can also be used to infer what strength line makes sense to be using with that rod.

Just curious but how do you tell a lure fishing rod from a jigging rod?
What is a fighting drag rating? Care to give an example?

boon

Quote from: Reel Beaker on January 07, 2019, 01:58:37 PM
Quote from: boon on January 06, 2019, 03:06:36 AM
PE relates to the nominal diameter of the line. It used to offer a reasonable rule of thumb that the PE size times 10 gave you the approximate breaking strain in pounds, however with modern braids that doesn't really hold true any more. Typically PE4 will break around 50lb and PE8 out around 100.
Even with these rules of thumb, it's not really a useful thing to rate a rod by (and yet many manufacturers still do) because of the significant variance in line strengths of the same diameter.
I will add that most of the time rods rated in PE tend to be lure fishing rods, and the weight of lure they are rated for may give you a better approximation of the rod's action, lifting power etc. Some high-end jigging rods will give you a fighting drag rating which can also be used to infer what strength line makes sense to be using with that rod.

Just curious but how do you tell a lure fishing rod from a jigging rod?
What is a fighting drag rating? Care to give an example?

Lure fishing encompassing jig fishing.... but non-jig lure fishing rods commonly rated by PE and lure weight, for example, would include topwater rods for stickbaiting or popper fishing.

My version of what a "jigging" rod is will differ quite a lot because of how we fish jigs around here. I'm talking specifically about rods for mechanical jigging, typically 5'6 or shorter, parabolic medium action, usually very thin graphite blanks and unbelievable amounts of power.

The fighting drag rating, again more commonly on "jigging" rods, will usually provide a weight and an angle, say 14kg @ 60 degrees. This is what the manufacturer has tested the blank to comfortably withstand (lifting that much weight with the butt at that angle above horizontal), and can be used without worrying about breaking the rod or "bottoming out" the blank. That way an angler can set their reel up to have that much drag at what they expect to be the maximum amount of line out (typically the water's depth when mechanical jigging) and know that they can give it everything without worrying about something breaking.

Does that make sense?