Delrin/teflon "Dots" for spool bushings

[Petah]

I keep reading about these delrin/teflon "Dots" that some are using in the spool bushings on jigmasters and other bushing reels. Where can I get them and what size? Better yet a part number!!!???
Thanks in advance for any and all help!!!

Peter

[Tiddlerbasher]

I believe most people cut there own, from a sheet of delrin, using a wad cutter or leather punch.

[Petah]

Okay, so I've never seen these "Dots"
can someone post a picture of one. I'm thinking that they are the same thing as the
spacer shims behind spool bearings but much smaller. Thanks for any and all help!!

Peter

[Alto Mare]

Here is a pic Peter:

I came up with these for the bushing, as I'm showing on the pic.
If you have ball bearings, Tom ( Cortez Conversions ) has some nice shims.


The 2.5mm will fit loose and could be removed from the bushing, the 3mm needs to get jammed in there with a pick.
I use the 3mm in mine.

Most here have been using metal and it will work just fine, I prefer the Delrin dots.


If you do not have any pieces laying around, send me your address on a PM and I'll send a couple out.

Sal

[Gman_WC]

Sal,  Are you using these to take up spool slop?
-gary

[Petah]

Thanks Sal, P.M. sent!!!

Peter

[Alto Mare]

Sal,  Are you using these to take up spool slop?
-gary

Yes Gary!

Sal

[Alto Mare]

Thanks Sal, P.M. sent!!!

Peter

Got it Peter! I'll get them out as soon as I get a chance.

Sal

[Petah]

Sal,
      Do you still adjust the spool with a little clearance (side-to-side movement) or zero when you use these?

Peter

[Alto Mare]

Always with a little play on these reels Peter, but go snug at first, so the spacer gets set in and back it up a little.
This material is pretty tough, it doesn't compress much.

Sal

[Gfish]

Almost a diffrent subject, but it's got me thinking("oh, oh..."). The older Penn's that I have with spool b.bearings, such as Senators, Squidder, HS Jigmasters; you aren't supposed to use the tail-plate adjustment for cast control. The b.bearings are radial-load-only oriented and can damaged if torqued for cast control, so they need a few thousands " slop",  just like the Penn manual says. A Squidder, or the HS 506 is a good castin size reel. Ulua(GT) shore fishin guy's on the Islands like the 113h or the Newell's for bait castin(4-8 ozs.).

Would the "dots" be the best way to put friction on the spool shaft tips for casting and save the b.bearings? What about a tiny spring? Or somethin else maybe? Somethin that fits down in the cup and contacts the spool shaft without affecting b.bearing spin...

I just cleaned up an Old School-Abu Ambassadeur 5000('73) with copper lookin spool bushings and the cups have brass(copper?) squares that fit in the bottom for spool adjustment(cast control too?). There is a centrifical brake unit in the reel, also. Have yet to test it, maybe today...

[Tiddlerbasher]

Always leave a little (few thou) play on the shaft for best free spool and zero stress on anything. If you want to control overuns try magging it or simple thumb control.

[Brewcrafter]

Gfish - I currently have an International 975CS that is getting ready to go back together this weekend, and what you describe for the Ambassaduer pretty much mirrors what I am seeing in this reel.  Each of the bearing cups has a "metal thrust washer #40" that sits in the bottom of the bearing cup and bears on each end of the spool.  The Owners Manual specifically details using this as a primary cast control, and to adjust it while allowing your lure or weight to drop slowly to get initial setting, and then trial cast and adjust from there.  On this particular reel it is pretty close to zero lash.  It also is equipped with a secondary centrifugal control that, while rudimentary, is pretty cool.  And I have got to say this reel casts awesome (and to be honest I am pretty lame when it comes to casting).
The idea of doing the same thing only using a modern material like Delrin or Teflon seems pretty neat.  I would suppose you just have to be sure that it does not in any way contact or interfere with the bearing itself.

[oc1]

Magnets and centrifugal brake shoes apply proportional braking.  The faster the spool is spinning the more braking they provide.  The cast control knob and spool tension provides more braking at start-up and the amount of braking is not proportional to the spool speed.  Any time you are using spool tension instead of proportional braking you are giving up a little distance.

You may be able to increase the size or weight of the centrifugal brake blocks so no spool tension is needed to keep it under control.
-steve

[Gfish]

Thanks, T., B. and O. The Abu Am. 5000 casts so well for 46 yr. old reel, that I'm pretty surprised. I payed probably a little extra for it cause it looked to be in good condition relative to what was out there. Possibly all original parts, with little use, or kept up well and FW use only(from the N. Mid-west). All I did was clean everything, testing with 14lb. Fireline, at 1, then 2 oz. The cup plates behind the bushings didn't have much wear on 'em. Very impressed with the engineering on these. Only the handle knobs and crank-shaft bushing were obviously non-metal. The 2 drag washers(phenolic?) godda be changed to c-tex, too much start-up friction.

I got the Vintage Off-Shore/Tiburon kit: PX21 with a spool designed for the HS Jiggy(b.bearings). It's onea the best vintage Penn casters I have now, but spool tension ain't gonna be good for b.bearing duribility and I don't like the wear on my thumb when going that route. Time to experiment with dots or thrust shims or something else...