alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Citica 200E retaining nut
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
December 12, 2019, 01:22:40 PM *
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Author Topic: Citica 200E retaining nut  (Read 436 times)
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Darkhorse
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« on: May 15, 2019, 07:10:58 PM »

I know this might be a stupid question, especially for a first post, but I need to know. I am trying to remove the handle on a Citica 200E so I can replace the spring clips and spring, but the retaining nut is froze solid. I don't recognize the tool needed to remove this nut and I don't want to get it all marked up.
So I would appreciate any insight or advice from those who have done this.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2019, 07:19:28 PM by Darkhorse » Logged
Zimbass
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2019, 07:33:43 PM »

Hi and welcome.

Not sure why you need to replace the spring clips and spring ? In any event, like with all Shimano low profile baitcasters, the retaining nut is a 10mm size, so you need a 10mm spanner, or preferable a socket. If there is some corrosion or crud on the threads, some lubricant will help with the task.

Let me know if I am reading your post right, and if you need further advice.

Cheers,

Terry.
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Darkhorse
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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2019, 09:15:12 PM »

I don't have a 10mm spanner, but I do have a 10mm socket out in the shop so I'll try it tomorrow. The drag suddenly stopped working and from looking at the schematics I determined those 3 parts to be highly likely to be the problem.
Most likely I'm wrong but the parts are cheap so I decided to try.
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Zimbass
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« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2019, 05:46:06 AM »

If that drag stopped working suddenly, I would suggest that the drag washers would be the culprits, rather than the drag spring washers, or spring.

Let us know what you come up with, and if you need more help.

Cheers,

Terry.

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alantani
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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2019, 07:27:57 AM »

here is your schematic.  https://www.jollypesca.net/ricambi-shimano-2016/reels/low-profile/citica-ci200e.html

the handle retaining screw and the retainer come off, then you see the 10mm handle nut.  so to remove the handle, it's just a number 2 phillips and a 10mm wrench.  any chance it's a lefty? 

also, the drag is not working?  is the line slipping too easily?  any chance you have braid that is slipping on the spool?
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Darkhorse
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« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2019, 02:03:50 PM »

I enlarged your schematic, because it looked just like mine, and there I think I see the problem. What I called the "nut" is actually the retainer. I just assumed it was a nut because I've been working on my Revo SX and it has an obvious nut. Still it's on tight because with all I've done to it that retainer has yet to offer to lift off the handle nut. Now I'll approach it from another angle.

This reel has monofilament and the drag worked a week ago. A couple of nights ago I noticed how easy the handle turned. I checked the drag and there was none. I turned the star drag, it clicked a few times then stopped clicking but still would turn, but turning it had no effect on the drag. I felt like something had broke or collapsed not allowing pressure to be put on the drag washers.
It just didn't seem likely it was the drag washers but if these clips and springs don't fix it I will replace the drag washers for sure.
This is an old reel, at least 10 years old. For years it was my number one crankbait reel. Now a Lew's does general crankin duties, while the Citica is on a MH crankbait rod. It's just too good a reel not to be used.

I do have braid on a number of other reels both baitcast and spinning. My braid never slips or digs in. First I attach 20 yards of mono to the spool then tie the braid to mono with a double uni, the spool end of the braid spool is attached to a barn pole with a clip, then I walk what I think is a good distance while the spool unwinds. I tighten my drag just a tad tighter than I fish with, then keeping a good bend on the rod I walk back to the spool reeling in line as I go. I like braid and use it whenever I can. In fact the only time I use mono as a main line is on my crankbait rods.
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Zimbass
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« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2019, 07:58:51 PM »

If your reel is the 200E it is a rightie, as the leftie is 201E.

I am sure you are on the right path now. The retainer can be very tight if the nut was not aligned properly at installation.

The best way to get it to pop, is to gently work a needle around the base, being careful not to scratch anything.

Good luck.

Best,

Terry.

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Darkhorse
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« Reply #7 on: May 17, 2019, 10:03:00 PM »

I used the tip of a scribe to lift the retainer and to my surprise it lifted right off. It took all of 20 minutes to put in the the spring and spring clips. But you were right, they didn't help the problem one bit. So I'll be getting some drag washers soon.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 
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philaroman
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« Reply #8 on: May 18, 2019, 02:15:11 AM »

your drag is completely gone, not just performing poorly -- correct?

don't bother with washer material/condition/replacement, until you fix the mechanism that put's them into play

what do you mean by "replace the spring clips and spring" -- where are the original parts/pieces?

from what you describe, sounds like your click pin/spring (BNT2122,2123) got dislodged -- minor issue: star not clicking

then, fell IN rather than OUT & lodged themselves somewhere they don't belong -- MAJOR issue: no drag, at all

might as well get the drag working (however poorly) w/ the old washers, before you buy new ones


« Last Edit: May 18, 2019, 03:48:36 AM by philaroman » Logged
Darkhorse
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« Reply #9 on: May 18, 2019, 03:43:03 PM »

Hi Phiaroman,
Are you saying a bad, or misplaced, clip pin and spring BNT2122,2123 will cause the drag to be unresponsive? Mine clicks through a certain range but it has no effect on the drag through and beyond that range.
I was seeking a cause, that is when I decided to try a new spring clip and spring, which had no effect. The old parts are in fishing reel and small parts toolbox.  New parts had no effect on the drag so I'm putting this on the side while I think this through again.
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Darkhorse
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« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2019, 02:37:51 PM »

This is an update just in case anyone is interested.
I agree with Phiaroman in that often a part breaks or the circuit as a whole no longer works like it should and a new part is installed, which breaks too. So it's obvious something else in the circuit is causeing the real problem and this must be found.
So I took the Citica apart to look for problems and gave it a good cleaning and relube while I was at it. After installing the new drag washers not only did I have my drag clicking again but I also had drag again. I could have just jumped to the drag washers, got my drag back, and sat back to watch some TV. But my reel would not be as good as it is now. Now I have an old reel that's clean and lubed and casts and reels like a new one. So the extra time was well spent.
I've always liked the Citica, even after buying new, more expensive reels. For example I have a Abu Garcia Revo 3 SX that's a super smooth 10 bearing reel that casts like a dream. When it would cast that is. Almost from the beginning it's given me problems with the thumb bar not working correctly. A few years ago the auger stopped turning when trying to reel in line. I had to take the auger circuit out and replace it with several new parts.
Then the thumbar started giving me problems again. But this  year was the worst. I never knew when it would cast in free spool or go into gear when trying to cast and that's very aggravating. So I replaced the Latch which is the part that disengages the spool when you want to cast or get free spool. While I was in there I noticed the Citica just seemed simpler and sturdier than the Revo. Of course a 4 bearing reel will never be as smooth as the 10 bearing Revo but the Citica is smooth enough.
I am confident the Citica will give me another 10+ years of good service. I can't say the same thing about the Revo.
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philaroman
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« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2019, 04:42:15 PM »

glad you worked it out...  just an FYI:

I believe yours is the last good Japan-made Citica -- don't expect same quality from later models

it's the budget version of CuradoE -- more bearings; less plastic; choice of ratio (E7=7:1, E5=5:1)

if you decide to treat yourself to the better Shimano models, avoid Curado-G/Chronarch-E -- BAD YEAR(s)!!!

then, Curado-I/Chronarch-D quality was restored, but I don't think Citica ever recovered




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Darkhorse
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« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2019, 09:15:18 PM »

I really like Shimano spinning reels but I'm not so hot about the newer baitcasters. I have a Lew's tournament MB that I'm really fond of so the next one might be a higher grade of Lew's.
I do have an older model Cruxis, kinda rough, bulky, with a lot of plastic. But it has yet to fail me and I use it as a back up worm and plastics reel. It's on a Shimano MH worm rod and is spooled with 20lb. powerpro braid. It gets used every trip, mostly for tossing weightless plastics.
I have an older spinner that was made in Japan. A Shimano Triton Baitrunner 6500 that looks brand new as it's only been fished 3 times that I remember. I got the matching rod also. It's a good reel though heavy, just don't have the opportunity much anymore. A real sad tale goes along with this combo, maybe I'll share it sometime.
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