Daiwa 1000C

[festus]

A few days ago I posted a look inside the Daiwa 1300C.  Got a Daiwa 1000C in the mail today, already serviced it and was reluctant to post details since the two reels are similar.  Figured it would be better to post this because there are some differences. It could have been fished as it arrived with a line change, but it needed cleaning and a re-lube.


The plastic handle cap has been removed to allow for removing the handle screw.


The handle slides right out.


Removing the spool and drag knob.


Removing the body cover screws.


Removing the body cover.


A look at the anti-reverse claw, screw, and spring.


This bushing is known as bearing metal B, and pictured also is the drive gear washer.


Removing the oscillating gear slider screw.


Removing the main shaft.


A look at the drive gear.  The grease is still soft, but needs changed.


A look at the oscillating slider, oscillating gear, and bearing metal A to be removed.








This 10 mm rotor nut has regular right hand threads.




Removing the rotor


A look at the bottom side of the rotor which was clean.


This is known on the schematic as the ball bearing retaining washer.






A look at the pinion and ball bearing.


The anti-reverse assembly and bail assembly were working fine, so I left them as they were.


A look at the drag washers, setup was similar to the 1300C.


A look at the underside of the spool and nylon spool click claw.


The parts cleaned up easily.  There was no hardened grease.  Used Simple Green, Dawn dishwashing detergent, and a toothbrush.


Reinstalling the pinion gear and bearing.




Reattaching the rotor to the housing.


The bearing metal A (bushing) has been replaced, time to reinsert the oscillating gear.  I won't show a complete assembly of the innards, it's the same as disassembly in reverse.




Replacing the body cover.


Reattaching the spool and drag knob.


This is the smoothest Daiwa I've ever owned, even smoother than the worm gear driven Daiwa 8300.  It weighs 7.75 oz on my scale, a small reel, but surprisingly there are two more C series that are even smaller-the Daiwa 700C and the Daiwa 500C.  Line capacity is listed as 200 yds 4 lb mono, 160 yds 6 lb mono, 110 yds 8 lb mono, and 80 yds of 10 lb mono.  6 lb mono would be ideal.


This is a clean reel other than a little corrosion on the non-handle side.  Got a 5-1/2' Daiwa ultralight rod in the garage from the 1980s that will pair up very well with this little jewel.  Gear ratio is 5.4 to 1.

[steelhead_killer]

I love these little reels for trout fishing and panfish.

[Crow]

Another great write-up !!  You're gettin' reel good at this !

[alantani]

great write up!!!!!

[foakes]

Excellent tutor, Chester --

I have a few of those little 1000C's -- and they are a very impressive little powerhouse.

Good pics!

Best,

Fred

[Silvers]

Nice write up!

Here is a screen which shows the 1000C, the 1000D (snapoff-spool) and the SS No.1


All 3 are near the same, the D was a later build of the C with a snapoff spool system (1000/1300/1600/2600D) and different drag washer stack (1 teflon,1 metal, 1 springsteel in near spool size)
The SS No.1 was build before the 1000C comes out and is exactly the same reel as the GS-1, except the color.
The spools for the 1000C/SS No.1 are also interchangeable with the Apollo 100RL.

And another screen, which show also the 500/700C in comparison to the 1000s

[The Fishing Hobby]

The 1000C is a great reel. I have one and a 500C. I have a personal preference for the 1000x that came out later. Similar build but the 1000x has an internal bail trip instead of the bumper, a push button spool release and can easily be converted to a silent anti-reverse! I did a video on them a while back complete with part numbers for the silent anti-reverse swap and bearing sizes if you want to convert to ball bearings:

[Midway Tommy]

Never understood why Daiwa utilized that clumsy and ugly external bail trip.  I my mind it would have looked and been so much better with the regular internal function.

[The Fishing Hobby]

Maybe it was a little cheaper since it is just cast into the body and not having to put the extra parts in the rotor. I don't like it, but I close mine manually anyway 90% of the time if the reel I'm using is able to be closed manually.

[mo65]

Never understood why Daiwa utilized that clumsy and ugly external bail trip. 

   I never understood why ANY manufacturer used the thing...most of the time it jams and nearly yanks the reel out of your hands. Some of my favorite reels have one though.

[Midway Tommy]

Even Penn uses them on their bigger salt water size reels.      I suppose they don't have to have as high of quality bail spring setup since you just slap the dang thing shut. 

[happyhooker]

Another great write-up !!  You're gettin' reel good at this !

X2.
Liked Silvers groupings/pics a bunch too.

Frank

[WeyeFisherCO]

Nice tutorial. 
I have one of these that I bought in the 1970's as part of an ultralight Diawa combo.  It was great for panfish and brook trout.  the external bail closure is way too clumsy to depend on.  I took mine apart and cleaned it in 2013.  The drag washers appear to be nylon and it had very little wear; it's a nice design except for the bail closure bumper mechanism.

[Midway Tommy]

Nice tutorial. 
The external bail closure is way too clumsy to depend on. ..... The drag washers appear to be nylon and it had very little wear; it's a nice design except for the bail closure bumper mechanism.

I agree. It's interesting how an external bail trip, especially those reels with a big ol' bar/post/knobby/stump, etc. protruding out from the leg, can affect one's psyche. I can't stand that style of spinner. If someone gave one of those, other than for sitting on shelf, no matter who the manufacturer was, I'd give give the darn thing away. I have no problem, though, with a concealed bail trip stud behind the rotor on the body housing.    Go figure.       

[oc1]

Way, way back I had a no-name reel with an external bail trip.  The reel was foreign, the cheapest thing in the hardware store display case, way before skirted spools.  The cast metal frame was poorly burnished, the paint was communist olive drab and red, it was rough feeling and "geary" with no amenities.   I've been looking for another for some time now, but with no name it is difficult to search for..

The bail was nothing more than a single bent piece of wire, the ends of which fit into holes on either side of the rotor.  There was no bail spring except for some tension in the wire.  It was the wire that hit the trip stump.  A bend in the wire would pick up the line and served in place of a roller.  The wire was so light weight, that it tripped easily and did not make a clunk when the bail slammed shut.  

It was an embarrassing reel to fish with at the pier.  But, it didn't feel odd or disconcerting in any way and never caused a moment of trouble.  When I finally upgraded to the popular and omnipotent Mitchell 304 and 300 there was no end to sluggish bail problems.... but I felt much better about it all.

-steve