muratic acid for freeing up a seized handle

[gstours]

Another approach if you can turn the knob a complete revolution,  is to use a mechanical turner like a variable speed 1/2 inch drill to wear out the crud. 
Make a forked rod, with wood and a bolt to hold the knot, a rag, and tape, if nothing else is available.  Spray or drop in your solvent to lube.  It's just friction at first.  This has worked great for me on knobs and gears, drags, etc.   go slow at first and then speed up the drill,  it's a safe application and maybe revolutanary.   Good luck 🍀.  Keep us posted.

[Bill B]

Here is a jig Harry K made to spin the handle.  First picture in the post shows it

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7401.0

Bill

[oc1]

I wrap a piece of heavy cord around the knob, chuck the two ends of the cord in a drill and spin it.  The cord will twist to the max and flop around a bit as it is spun around.  Quick and dirty, but try not to hurt yourself.

If the knob is really to difficult to turn then it's usually hopeless in my hands.

Another alternative to muriatic acid is Ospho rust treatment.  It's phosphoric acid.

-steve

[Navidad Nutcase]

update: As Don predicted, the tsi & oil mix didn't do a thing. I don't think anything with any thickness or viscosity is going to penetrate. I snuck into my wife's bathroom and stole her fingernail polish remover. Don't know what the acetone concentration is but I will try 3 days in it. I might have to go for a stronger solution. The drain cleaner worked the best but just how much of that stuff the metal can withstand before doing permanent damage is not clear. However, it's worthless in its current condition.
I will try all other options first. I cut the head off a bolt, screwed it into the handle stem, put the bolt in my cordless drill, and the black knob in the vise. Ten seconds of slow turning only resulted in making the stem so hot I burnt my fingers.
to be continued....
greg

[philaroman]

can't believe I forgot:
some people swear by MEK for cleaning double-shielded bearings without removing shields
a much more potent solvent in the "_cetone/_ketone family"
destroys most (all?) plastic/paint and many other things
will not harm metal...  pretty sure its safe for plating, ceramic coating, etc.
hard to find -- not sure if "MEK Substitute" in stores has same properties (diminished?)
NASTY -- use outside; do not inhale/touch!!!

[oc1]

MEK is used as a catalyst for polyester resin.  Usually sold in a little one or two ounce dropper bottle with fiberglass stuff in the local hardware store.  Low viscosity.
-steve

[philaroman]

AWESOME!!!  THANKS, STEVE
I had only seen it years ago, in big cans next to acetone (where "MEK Substitute" now sits)
as I understand, it was used like acetone: as a more aggressive solvent/"stripper"
with slower evaporation rate...  and was phased out -- fumes too noxious
1-2 oz. dropper would be perfect for tiny shields I dare not touch, LOL
(always wanted to try it, but passed on storing the big can... when I could still get it)

[Tiddlerbasher]

With in the last couple of months I bought a litre of MEK on Ebay no problem - maybe it's different in the US

[Donnyboat]

Thanks Chris, what is your main use for it, cheers Don.

[oc1]

With in the last couple of months I bought a litre of MEK on Ebay no problem - maybe it's different in the US

LOL.  No, that's illegal here too.  I buy all my hazardous materials on ebay because the legitimate distributors have to abide by the shipping regulations.
-steve

[philaroman]

can't speak for all US, but in PA I can't even get ethanol unless it's denatured or weaker than 70%

[Tiddlerbasher]

Thanks Chris, what is your main use for it, cheers Don.

I started using it years ago as a prep agent for solvent weld plastic pipes. It is similar to acetone (they are both liquid ketones) but evaporates more slowly so can be useful in some cases - like cleaning. But acetone is a better solvent, it can dissolve more things (even though it is weaker). Mek is very good at cleaning various printing inks - in fact it is frqently used as the solvent in ink cartridges and felt tip pens (because it doesn't evaporate too quickly). It is also used as a paint thinner, iirc the original Hammerite paint used mek, but I stand to be corrected - memory isn't what it used to be .

Steve - mek, acetone, ipa and many other solvents ship without problems (legally) in the UK. Then again you have those companies who want to impose their own rules and regulations for shipping and charge ridiculous £££ for shipping a can of oil. I use Ebay for the convenience of buying small amounts of chemicals - I don't need, or want, a 25litr barrel of anything.

[Navidad Nutcase]

further update:
well, 2 days in fingernail polish remover - diluted acetone - and the stem spins about70% more freely than before,  for maybe ten revolutions and starts getting stiff again. My Hypothesis is this: The acetone is dissolving corrosion alright but when I spin the handle the liquid evaporates. Therefore the ''inners'' are dry - no lubrication and the corrosion gets the upper hand. I will soak it further, then go to the acetone and oil bath. Thanks for all the help here, people. Really a great board.

I wanted to ask, if I'd have pressed the knob off, does the inner stem run clear to the top of the outer sleeve? like in the star drag handle picture BrandonG has posted in the thread about knobs. It would be easier to get liquid completely thru end to end, without the knob on the stem.

wishing all mothers an early ''happy mother's day''
Greg

[Tiddlerbasher]

Acetone on its own wont do much. 50/50 acetone or MEK and oil. THe MEK has longer soak time. Try and keep the shaft vertical it may help crud drain out

[Donnyboat]

Thanks for the heads up on the MEK Chris, we all learning, cheers Don.