alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial TUTORIAL: Revo Toro 60/61 Tutorial
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: TUTORIAL: Revo Toro 60/61 Tutorial  (Read 69547 times)
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Killerbug
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« on: December 15, 2011, 01:26:52 PM »

On the northern hemisphere the Revo Toro is a very popular reel among Musky and XXL pike enthusiasts, but also among saltwater guys, who in the Toro series, has found a perfect low profile for casting iron and light jigging.

I have left out some basic stuff like cleaning the bearings, or the levelvind system. This has been well documented in other
tutorials on this site. Instead I have focused on some of the danger zones of the Toro, where some extra attention is needed.



The particular reel I am working on here, is the Revo Toro 61(rev 18 01), but this tutor also covers Toro 50/51 HS, 60/61 HS, and the Toro winch. Use this Tutorial as completion to Alans Revo Inshore Tutorial, and don't forget to have the scematic by.

http://www.abugarcia.com/support/reel-schematics?field_schem_numb_value=revo+toro



Total chaos!! but the parts are interchangeable  :roll:

Drive side:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------



First thing to do is removing the handle.



Then I loosen the screw holding the frame together,  this allows me to loosen the side-plate by turning it counter clockwise, ca 15 degrees. Some force is required if the reel have not been serviced for a while.  After the sideplate is removed, you can pull out the spool(see Alans Revo Inshore tutor for further information if the spool is stocked to the frame)



There are four screws holding the drive side plate onto the frame, one is found on the inside of the mainframe. Unscrew all, and remove
the side-plate on the drive side. The fourth is a little tricky, it's holding the lubrication hatch in place as well. This hatch is made of plastic, so be carefull not to over torque the plastic thread, when putting it back on.





Remove sideplate and gears, and the two screws holding the driveshaft. Remove the driveshaft.



Here you will find one of the danger zones of the Toro, this little trench under the driveshaft is constantly flooded
with water, in this case a soup of freshwater and parts of emulsified grease.

At this point I remove the levelvind, and the thumb bar release, clean and relube both.



This reel have had a serious washout, so i decided to clean the clutch mechanism. Remove the two screw holding the clutch plate, and press it down with a finger at the same time, to avoid the two springs jumbing out.





Then remove it completely, and try to remember the exact position of the clutch plate before removing it. Or take a picture, that
helps.



Clean the mainframe.



Remount the clutch plate, be sure you lube the mainframe well under the plate with a water resistant grease.



Here are the bearings you will find in the Toro, one pinion stabilizing bearing 3x10x4 and two spool bearings measuring 5x11x4. The two
small bearings are from the levelvind. The spool bearings was in fine condition, the rest in usable conditions. The levelving bearings
was packed with grease, and the Spool bearings where cleaned and re lubed with Rocket fuel.   

You might hate me for this, but even if ABU's HPCR« bearings is pretty tough, a brass bushing would have been a better solution under the driveshaft. The levelvind would also be better off with just plastic bushings instead of bearings. Plastic bushings function better under harsh conditions, IMO are bearings in the levelvind system of a big-bait reel super flu.



To get to the drive shaft bearing, you have to remove the e-clip first. Then clean the driveshaft, before cleaning and packing the bearing with water resistant grease.




Pack the trench under the driveshaft with grease, before remounting the driveshaft.



Mount the AR dog

The Revo Toro has tree large Carbon Matrix (Carbontex like) washers that is factory dry. Clean the washers, and grease them with Calls grease to increase the performance of the drag in wet conditions.




Love this gear, I clean it with a toothbrush and a cloth.



Stack the greased washers into the main gear, and put the Anti reverse sleeve back on



Lube the gears with a gear oil, or use grease.

Main Frame:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Remount the thumb bar mechanism, lube all the part with grease to ensure
smoothness.



Lube the worm gear with grease.



Clean and remount the pinion gear.  Put the levelvind shield back on, be careful not to tighten the screws to much, this might brake the
plastic.

Sideplate:
-----------------------------------------------------------------



I could have left this part out as it was not dirty, but it's quickly done by removing the tree screws
to get acces to the coq wheel





Clean and relube it. Do not forget to clean the brake collar.

Pinion stabilizing bearing:

------------------------------------------------------------------



This bearing is the Achilles heel of the Toro, is like the drive shaft bearing, always drenched in water.  Here no dirt
has entered, but the bearing was bathing in a sauce of emulsified grease and water. No rust was visible, but the bearing
had seen better days. The alu thread shows small sign of corrosion(see arrow)
 


The small plastic cap that covers the pinion bearing, had pulverized alu
on it, this shows that an electrolytic process was going on under the endcap.




Clean the bearing and put it back in place, repack it with grease.



Put the plastic cover back on. Take a cotton stick and clean the Anti reverse bearing, add a drop of gear grease or oil.



Attach the sideplate to the frame, and put the endcap back on



Put the handle back on, don't forget the washer next to the handle. Essential to avoid the drive shaft digging itself
into the alu handle under stress!!!



Put the spool bearings back on, I use the Hedgehoq tool not to damage the spoolshaft.



Put the handle back on, and you are ready to fish  Shocked

Tight lines, or KnŠk og BrŠk as we say over here.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2014, 11:28:55 AM by Killerbug » Logged

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redsetta
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« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2011, 02:01:51 PM »

Nice one Morten - cheers for the post.
Any thoughts on the Revo - performance, quality etc?
Thanks mate, Justin
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Killerbug
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« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2011, 04:13:10 PM »

Hi Justin,

I think it's the best low profile big-bait reel out there, relatively small with plenty of torque and drag. A friend of mine has landed xx pound Yellowfin
on it.  Durability is my concern, and we have just seen the top of the iceberg.  But I hope this tutorial will help all of you who have a Toro, to get
some more years out of it.
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alantani
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« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2011, 11:17:29 AM »

nicely done!  also glad to see you have the upgraded kick lever with the stainelss steel insert.

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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
Killerbug
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« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2011, 06:14:16 PM »

Thanks, It's standard now in all new Revo Toros, beginning with rev 18 01. Have plenty off new click levers there, But have not had one Revo Toro older than 18 01 yet.  But if I get one that needs the new click lever, I will add that part to the tutorial as well.  
« Last Edit: December 17, 2011, 06:45:42 PM by Killerbug » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: November 01, 2012, 12:56:13 AM »

Hi,

Got the reel shown in this tutorial back today, and it did not look good. I have noticed the Revos, and the Revo Toros seems to have some problems getting rid of the moisture that builds up inside the reel. Have some of you any comments on this etc, or maybe a suggestion to a mechanical solution.
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« Reply #6 on: November 01, 2012, 11:37:19 AM »

Hi,
sorry no solution, but i noticed an other (in my opinion) much more important problem.
Have a look to the ears of the metal washer - they are bended. Any idea where its coming from? Have a look to the both grooves in the main gear and you find the answer.
They are not cut down to the ground and the washer hangs up and is not lying flat
on the CFK washer. Under drag pressure the ears will be bended, the washer can not touch
the CFK washer, (maybe a little only), and you will not get full drag power from your reel.
Remove excess material with a dremel and the problem is solved.
Some month ago had same troubles with a Daiwa reel. After repair drag increased from 8 to 12 kg!

Hilsner
Wolli
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« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2012, 06:45:08 PM »

today received info from a friend who had the same troubles. He assembled the reel to the original schematic and the ears became damaged....are there dirfferent schematics in the market?

Change the metalwashers to the correct configuration and the problem is solved!
http://smoothdrag.com/settings.html

Wolli
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Killerbug
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« Reply #8 on: November 04, 2012, 10:36:13 AM »

today received info from a friend who had the same troubles. He assembled the reel to the original schematic and the ears became damaged....are there dirfferent schematics in the market?

Change the metalwashers to the correct configuration and the problem is solved!
http://smoothdrag.com/settings.html

Wolli

If an ABU scematic has any faults, it would normally be corrected very quickly due to repports from those working at the assemply lines.  The number under the reelfoot of every ABU reel, has to match the techincal drawing of that particulier model, or revision, so yes, there are different drawings.  I think the Revo Toro has tree revisions now.

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ZeeeReelMan
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« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2013, 04:02:38 PM »

Question on removal of thumb bar mechanism. How does it release? Or does it just slide out?
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2013, 04:36:21 PM »

There's a screw in the thumb bar assembly.


Once the screw is out, the inner support will slide out to the right or left (I cannot remember)


Then the thumb bar will slide out of the frame.
« Last Edit: November 25, 2013, 11:12:45 AM by Bryan Young » Logged

Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B
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« Reply #11 on: November 25, 2013, 09:14:59 AM »

look at the last photo of the tutorial and you'll see the screw...
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« Reply #12 on: November 25, 2013, 01:19:53 PM »

Thanks for your help guys. As most of my repairs consist of round style conventionals, big game reels and most major brand spinning reels including Van Staal's.
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