110

[sharkman]

Need some advice. I do a lot of light surf fishing for whiting. Newer reels don't hold up to environment very well. I alway rinse after every use and service regularly. Currently the best reels for the job 420ss and 712z. I have always want to try 110n. What is everyone's opinion on using this reel in saltwater.

[Midway Tommy]

I wouldn't, but if you do clean and service it regularly, like at least once a month.

[oc1]

I've never disagreed with anything Tommy says.  But, I don't see why the DQ would not hold up as well as the 712 out in the surf.  Need to dig up Tommy's side-by-side comparison of the two.

Love surf fishing for whiting.  It's under-appreciated.
-steve

[Gfish]

Rinse dry and repeat.
It might be ok. Not that familier with the 110N, but I have a 265. Aluminium, brass/bronze, plastic, stainless steel and several diffrent kinds of drag washer materials. Get one without scratches on the aluminium body and check frequently.
What would be a same size class alternative?

[festus]

I think they'd be ok in saltwater if serviced often. I agree with Tommy, they'll most likely need a complete service at least once a month.  That will include complete handle disassembly by knocking out the roll pin and removing the c-clip.  Also it would be a good idea to remove the snap ring and completely service the one ball bearing.

[Midway Tommy]

I've never disagreed with anything Tommy says.  But, I don't see why the DQ would not hold up as well as the 712 out in the surf.  Need to dig up Tommy's side-by-side comparison of the two.

Love surf fishing for whiting.  It's under-appreciated.
-steve

Flattery will get you everywhere, Steve! 

I didn't compare a DQ & 712, it was a Shake 2062. I think they would all be comparable, though. My opinion is based on the damage I've seen caused by saltwater use neglect on multiple reels not specifically designed and/or sealed for saltwater.

Saltwater is tough on any reel so IMHO special care and maintenance should be given to any reel used in that environment. I'm a freshwater guy so if I fished a lot of saltwater and had devised a good/adequate regimen I might think a little differently. I just don't want to give corrosion any place to start and/or take hold.    

[sharkman]

Thanks guys for advice. I'll keep eye out for 110 and give it a try.

[wfjord]

I do a lot of light surf fishing for whiting... Currently the best reels for the job 420ss and 712z. I have always want to try 110n. What is everyone's opinion on using this reel in saltwater.

I've never owned a DQ --but, if I might make a suggestion...
From a 420ss to a 712z is a relatively considerable jump from light/ultralight to medim/med-light.  Why not split the difference and try a 714 or 714Z? A good size for whiting. Similar retrieve ratio and spool capacity somewhere near the middle. 

[philaroman]

just saw a decent 1202 sell <$25...  'bout same weight (correct?)
& larger (diameter+capacity?) graphite spool (correct?)
seems better for small-game S/W, among the good DAM's & still affordable

if I had the bucks, I might go for the new Okuma DAM, but IF AND ONLY IF
it uses standard Okuma-sized rotor & spools that can be cannibalized from cheaper Okuma's, for decades
that approach might work for you: just worry about the premium body/gearbox
& stockpile cheap disposable "trimmings"

[Ruffy]

I picked up a 221 that had lived in salt, with very little love it would seem. The spool arbor was frozen to the shaft and I had to dremel it off. When I did, there was very little of the shaft left and the two spring loaded tabs were busted (see page 6 of Freds excellent post on the 221). The main bearing was kaput and every washer from the bearing through the drag washers was rusted.

If you get one to use I would recommend regular servicing as everyone says, with a well packed main bearing with a marine grease. I'd include removing the spool and oiling the quick release mechanism after every outing, and I'd run a greased Carbontex drag with plenty of excess to cover all the metal washers in the stack, as opposed to the standard dry resistex Which are setting you up for rusty failure.

Cheers,
Andrew

[Ruffy]

All that aside, plastic spools at the drag required will be your friend in salt!

Cheers,
Andrew

[mo65]

   My saltwater experience is limited...limited by the fact I live in southern Ohio. What I have learned during that limited experience, is that proper lubrication before use and a simple freshwater rinse after use can make all the difference. I opened the reels I used at the beach and an offshore trip when returning home, expecting to see water and rusty corrosion. They were clean as a pin! Hardly even any water drops left. After freshwater rinsing I had left the rods in front of a fan...maybe that helped drying? Then, as an experiment to see if anything would develop, I let the combos sit untouched for 3 months. Opened them again to find nothing bad. Then, after a year, opened them again for a look before going to the beach again, still nothing!
   Here's what I think is happening: Those epic salt fails we see...they ain't from pier fishing or boat fishing...they are from surf fishing. the constant dunking must wash away the grease or something. Since I haven't surf fished, I can only speculate.
   What I do know is, I took a Shakespeare 2091 that was a complete mess of corrosion and rust, serviced it and fished it in the salt the past three years. It has stayed clean inside with nothing but proper lube and freshwater rinses. Grease that 110 well and fish it!

[oc1]

I've used plenty of "freshwater" reels in saltwater situations where they get dunked regularly and, yes, they will corrode and seize if not kept lubed.  I've also used "saltwater" reels in saltwater situations where they get dunked regularly and, yes, they too will corrode and seize if not kept lubed.  If you put uncoated steel parts in a reel they will rust faster in saltwater but will rust in freshwater too. 

Reels used to be advertised as either for freshwater or for saltwater.  Not so much any more.  But, what distinguishes the two? 
-steve

[wfjord]

Reels used to be advertised as either for freshwater or for saltwater.  Not so much any more.  But, what distinguishes the two? 
-steve

Not so sure these days, but the stock answer, I guess, would probably include more parts that are coated and/or less likely or slower to corrode, stronger/harder metals for the gears, decent line capacity, and sealed internals.

For me it's most of that and ease of disassembly for cleaning & lubing.  Not so sure about the sealed internals as I can't think of any "salt water" reels I've ever owned that were truly sealed and I at least mostly kept them corrosion free during my saltwater years.

[Brewcrafter]

I do a lot of light surf fishing for whiting... Currently the best reels for the job 420ss and 712z. I have always want to try 110n. What is everyone’s opinion on using this reel in saltwater.

I've never owned a DQ --but, if I might make a suggestion...
From a 420ss to a 712z is a relatively considerable jump from light/ultralight to medim/med-light.  Why not split the difference and try a 714 or 714Z? A good size for whiting. Similar retrieve ratio and spool capacity somewhere near the middle. 

I do not know whiting, but I do know my 110 and I do know fishing in the surf.  I'm gonna lean toward wfjord: my 110 is a great reel and while nailing barred surf perch on it might be fun and challenging, it is the ocean, and you never know what surprise is immediately going to smoke you and I have been surprised plenty of times (even if it was just a stray giant stringer of loose kelp - amazing how much stress they can put on with a little bit of current and tide).  My "goto" is a old Penn 5500, but I can also understand if you are looking to totally minimize weight/size of outfit - that trek across the sand can be a little tough at times. - john