alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Penn Slammer 760L rebuild by Dale Matlock.
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Penn Slammer 760L rebuild by Dale Matlock.  (Read 47656 times)
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dalematlock
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« on: December 21, 2011, 06:49:21 AM »

***NOTICE*** I HAVE UPDATED THIS POST BY DELETING THE BROKEN PHOTOBUCKET LINKS AND RE-ADDING ALL OF THE PICTURES IN ORDER AT THE END. TRYING TO MAKE THIS POST USEFUL AGAIN ***NOTICE***

Well, folks I'm back for round 2. Here is my second rebuild post and this time up is the Penn Slammer 760L Live Liner. I have to give it to Penn on this rebuild, in comparison to my Shimano Baitrunner build this was a 100x's easier and this reel seems to really keep to the K.I.S.S. principle, so no complaints here! Enjoy Wink

The Penn Slammer 760L.

We'll be starting with the spool:

Take off the drag knob assembly #52 and clean it up.

Remove the retaining ring and the upper drag assembly will come right out.

Flip the spool over and remove the Drag Cover #47C by removing the 3 screws #'s 44A.

Remove the Drive Plate #117 and don't lose the Click Spring #48.

After you remove the Drive Plate, the lower drag assembly will come out: #7 and #6.

Everything laid out.

I grease everything with Cal's Drag Grease and then wipe off the excess. Once you are done with that clean up everything else with a wipe down and reassemble the spool and set it aside. We are done with that portion.

Next, we are going to remove the Rotor #27.

Remove the Locating Pin #39B and Locating Pin Clip #39A.

Remove Rotor Locking Plate #95B and Rotor Nut #38 (Which calls for a 9/16 wrench). And then just slide off the rotor, clean it up and set it aside. It is your choice, I cleaned the bail at this part, took apart the roller which is pretty straight forward, wiped off the crud, oiled everything and put it back together.

Next for the Live Liner Eccentric Lever:

Remove the screw holding the left side #70 and the right side #70A together and simply take it off. Clean up any salt deposits,etc. Don't lose those little O-rings!

If you haven't by now, remove the handle because next we are going to be removing the side plate:

Remove the 4 screws holding the left side plate on.

DISCLAIMER: Be very careful when lifting this off because the Live Liner Assembly is physically attached on the backside of the side plate you are lifting up on. If you are not careful, then all the little springs that are connected in there could come off and go flying into the abyss! If you are just careful this won't be a problem.

Side plate off and flipped over so you can see the assembly. Simple mechanism eh? Man I love Penn!!!

Carefully begin disassembly of the Live Liner Mechanism. Remove the Dog Spring #75, Trip Spring #76, and Live Liner Eccentric Spring #71 (which should come right out if you remove the Live Liner Eccentric #72 with it). Undo the screw and remove the Live Liner Plate #73, then the Trip Lever #77, and last the Live Liner Dog #74

Everything laid out for ya. Clean it all up, grease it and get ready for reassembly!

First the Live Liner Dog #74

Then the Live Liner Plate #73

Install the screw and Live Liner Dog Spring #75

Next, I kinda just laid the Trip lever #77 in there because the Eccentric has a round post on it that will fit right in there for the next part.

Put the Eccentric #72 in there and then you can connect the Trip lever spring #76. Also note that I inserted the Eccentric side of the Eccentric Spring already, which makes it a ton easier to clip the other end in in the notch provided on the Live Liner Plate #73.

Shows you how that Eccentric Spring goes in.

Picture of it all assembled again. Set it aside and we are done with that part.

Remove the washers.

Left Bearing #20A.

Remove the Main Gear #8.

Remove the Spool Shaft Clip #43A, it rotates right out.

Remove the Spool Shaft #39

Remove the friction ring #28D.

Remove the Bearing Cover #21.

Now you can pull out the entire Spool bearing assembly.

And when you pull everything off one by one, here is what it looks like laid out as it came off.

Remove the Crosswind Gear #231.

Remove the right side bearing #20A.

All that should be left at this point is the Rear Drag Knob assembly left on the housing of the reel.

The Rear Drag Knob assembly lifts out as a unit, it took me a little force to get it out because I had major salt deposits holding it in there, ugh...

Now the assembly sorta comes apart in 2 separate pieces..one side is the washer side, the other side is the spring/dial side...best way I can explain it, lol.

For the washer side...

Remove the Rear Click Pin #87 and retainer #87A. I just wedged a dental tool in behind the pin and gently slid it out of the housing.

Remove the drag washer #85

Then the keyed washer #85A.

Then the Click Spring #84 and retainer #84A.

Then the Rear Drag Ratchet #83 and the Rear Drag Ratchet washer #83A.

For the spring side:

Remove the Rear Eared Washer #85B.

Then the Rear Drag Spring #86.

The Rear Drag Nut just unscrews out.

The empty Rear Drag Knob #88

At this point, clean everything up and grease it all up proper so hopefully we can combat that salt water intrusion for next time and throw some Cal's grease on that fiber drag washer.

Once cleaned up begin reassembly:


The washer side laid out as it should go back together right to left. The spring side is pretty cut and dry...screw in the nut, slide in the spring and slide in the rear eared washer.

Fit the two unit back together again and you get:

Voila!

Clean out and grease the housing real good and then slide back in that drag knob assembly, if it doesn't quite line up to the grooves, simply just screw in or out the knob til everything lines up.

You can now set that part aside and let's get back to the bearings real quick....

All of the bearings have bearing shields installed and can be removed with a small fish hook and just pick out the retainer ring. You can see how this bearing is barely lubricated at all....
You will need to pack these by hand OR......

Use your Alan Tani custom bearing packer!!! /high five to Alan!!
Repack all of your bearings nonetheless

Once everything has been cleaned up using a little carb cleaner and compressed air, regrease it all. I use Evinrude Triple Guard Blue marine grease for this purpose.

Next, lets get that spool assembly back together.

Slide that sleeve back into the clutch assembly #98C (DO NOT use the marine grease on this part) your anti-reverse will quit working if you do! What I do is spray it out with carb cleaner, then compressed air, then some Penn Oil, stick a rag through it to dry off the excess.


Slide on your first bearing

Next the clutch assembly and sleeve.

Second bearing on and all assembled.

Slide it all back in and install the bearing cover.

Put back in that right side bearing.

Then the crosswind gear.

Drop in that Cross Wind Block making sure the cutout on the back of the block goes right back on top of the post of the Cross Wind gear.

Slide the shaft back in and install the retaining clip.

Drop in the main gear.

Then the washers, the left side bearing...and final pic is it all assembled.

Since you already cleaned up that left side plate earlier and reassembled it already with the Live Liner Assembly, you can now just simply put on the left side plate and screw it down.

Install the O-rings and piece back together the Live Liner Eccentric Lever.

Install the friction ring.

Slide on the rotor.

Install the rotor nut and locking plate

Install the locating pin and the locating pin clip.

Slide on the spool.

And lock it all down with the Drag Knob.

Phew, all done!

Well, I hope you all enjoyed this rebuild of this reel. It is definitely becoming one of my favorites, and it certainly looks like a lot of work, but once you do it and put it back together you will realize it wasn't that bad at all.

Enjoy and tight lines folks!

Cheers,

Dale

« Last Edit: March 20, 2018, 08:22:36 AM by dalematlock » Logged
paal
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« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2011, 10:29:09 AM »

Very nice job!  Smiley
What kind of drag do you get from this reel (without bottoming the drag knob, but say, half a turn left) ?
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redsetta
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« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2011, 01:09:13 PM »

Great job Dale - thanks for posting.
I've worked on a lot of these (they're reasonably popular in NZ) and, unfortunately, find the live-liner system to be a real weak point.
The standard Slammer seems a good design though - good drag etc.
But I digress...  Wink
Excellent tutorial mate.
Cheers, Justin
« Last Edit: December 21, 2011, 02:29:05 PM by redsetta » Logged

Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer
Bryan Young
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« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2011, 06:01:01 AM »

Good job Dale.  Lot harder than it looks, huh?
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
alantani
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« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2011, 01:07:33 AM »

thanks a million! 
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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
dalematlock
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« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2011, 07:07:48 PM »

Hey Alan, just wanted to maybe recommend stickying this post so it doesn't get lost in the mix.

-Dale
« Last Edit: December 31, 2011, 08:11:11 PM by dalematlock » Logged
Bryan Young
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« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2011, 10:23:58 PM »

Nice.  Thanks for sharing.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
alantani
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« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2011, 10:44:30 AM »

also, take a look at bolting that bearing packer straight to the grease gun.  it's just 1/8th inch pipe. i have the zerx fittings.  alan
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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
broschro
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« Reply #8 on: April 24, 2012, 10:50:39 AM »

Just did one for a customer not too long ago and have to say it is a nice reel super strong drag could handle any thing.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2012, 03:27:49 PM by broschro » Logged
wallacewt
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« Reply #9 on: April 24, 2012, 03:17:53 PM »

thanks dale
i could do it with this tutorial
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SNAPS
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« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2012, 01:29:46 PM »

Dale
Great tutorial thank you a million time, saved me today, a fishing buddy gives me the 4600l with the eccentric springs and plate and says here tony I couldn't figure how to get it back together, well, I couldnt either till I saw your tutorial. That #75 live liner dog spring whew thank god for dental pick, so that I could manipulate it.

Thanks again
« Last Edit: August 26, 2012, 03:29:18 PM by Alto Mare » Logged
dalematlock
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« Reply #11 on: August 26, 2012, 02:53:06 PM »

Haha, Well I am really happy that it helped you out. That's why I absolutely love this site. Because I sure know it's saved me a few times as well  Wink

-Dale
« Last Edit: August 26, 2012, 03:30:17 PM by Alto Mare » Logged
Wael
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« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2013, 04:54:31 PM »

Thanks Dale, Alan, Everyone.
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2013, 11:42:01 AM »

That's a real (pun alert  Grin) useful post Dale. I believe the new Penn Spinfisher Live Liner uses the same or very similar mechanism.

best regards
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Bonecracker
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« Reply #14 on: January 25, 2013, 01:51:25 PM »

Afternoon everyone! Found this website and feel like I have did and gone to fishing heaven! Grin

One quick question regarding the Penn Slammer LL which I love! I have a 560L that I have caught quite a few tarpon on and noticed while using the spinning reel in November chasing big reds that the Live Line mech was not working properly. I could engage the LL mech manually and it worked properly! But I could not get the LL mech to engage/work turning the spinning reels handle! Cry

Any thoughts?? Huh?
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