BOSS Xtream SERIES:DAWG POUND (DPX2) ANNUAL REBUILD

[Gfish]

Whoa! The timing here!  I just found Alan's "cut and paste" post of the BX2 Mean Green tutorial. Much better in detail than what I was planning to post on mine.
I tore mine down, starting a couple of days ago, suspecting water intrusion after a couple of kayak trips, and took some pictures. Oh well, the "Mean Green" tutorial doesn't have the triple dogs which are interesting. There is indeed more disassembly detail in the M.G. tutorial, so that one can be accessed if needed. Also, I took the time to get all these photos and also I have the time to post it all, so...

The reel

Note the plastic gear cover with the drain hole in picture 1, lower left side.

[Gfish]

The Boss Xtream's{BX2} were the first of this series[year 2000]and featured an ARB and no AR dogs until, of course, the ARB's started to malfunction. The fix was the DPX2 with three alternating dogs, in addition to the ARB. This model has it all for me with the cast control and the clicker, in addition to the two AR systems. There are two models built with no ARB, the DPX2 30D & 30ND. I don't like an ARB in any reel used in saltwater because of maintenance issues/possible failures, and would get the 30D if I could go back and do it again. Mine should be ok as long as there is no binding issues, but slippage is acceptable on an ARB reel as long as there are back-up dogs. This series however did not last long because they came up with an improvement: the DX2—Dauntless version with a synchronized two-dog back-up to the ARB.

2 things to start disassembly; 1] take out the 4- [T-7 size], tiny, oddly placed, stainless steel side-plate screws{more discussion["bitching"]on this latter}

2] Pop off the black plastic cover on top of the drag lever cam{sitting up over the pinion housing in the pic.} and pull the E-clip from the spool end and separate the two. WAIT THOUGH!, so you don't deform the clip like I did, there are two things to do, to get at the E clip; A} turn the drag range program dial counter-clockwise[tightens the dial exposing more spool shaft, cause of the reverse threads] and then B} push in on the TAIL-PLATE SIDE of the spool shaft, which will give you even more E-clip exposure as the spool shaft moves towards the head-plate side.

In the 3rd pic. You can see water droplets on the drag cover. Latter-on you can see water under the drag covers and even under the drag washers. My hunch was right!
The gear you see on the spool shaft is the 2-speed pinion. And there's that carppy plastic cover on the back side of the head-plate, 1/2 covering the 2-speed main gears.



 

[Benni3]

That reel is boss,,,,,,,

[Gfish]

Please feel free to correct any info. or methodology, or add some comments as I go along here, at any time. I had to piece together information out of various articles and videos. I skipped a-lot of stuff, such as incomplete statements[i.e., statements not including things such as a complete time sequence], but they still may have had SOME good information. Also, Accurate uses their own sometimes complicated terminology, so I'm gonna stick with my nomenclature. For example they call the black plastic cover on the cam assembly a "tension cam cover". It'ed be cool if all reel manufactures would standardize part names.

Since I'm bitchin a bit here, my first engineering dislike: the side plate screws; too small and made of stainless steel and screwed into the aluminum frame. Can anyone say "galvanic corrosion"? Also 2 of them are countersunk about 2-mm down, and another 2 are about 4mm down into the side-plate. I can see that in the event of thread corrosion it might be an almost impossible removal situation without stripping the T-7 heads, or breaking the screw shafts.

Placement of the screws; a total of 6-holes, all on the bottom 1/2 of the frame, only 4 used, with 3 on the left side and only one on the right side———!?!. In the pic. the "X" holes are not used. The "—"holes support the gear/gear shaft area{an imaginary line from "—" hole to "—" hole would produce a radius like line going through the center of the gears and gear shaft}. Good for strength in that area, but then again, the screws are so skinny!...

[Gfish]

Drag lever and cam disassembly.

1] unscrewed the drag program dial out[reverse threads] of the cam[upside down in picture}. You can see the cam track in the bottom of the drag lever.

2] snap-ring pliers to remove the drag lever.

3] all the parts(drag program dial and can reassembled)

4] the drag lever detent. This can be removed and there's a spring under there if you need to lube it. Also, I need to remind myself that the handle knob has reverse threads, but I used stupid wording, it should say:"to loosen—turn clockwise".  I'm just the kinda guy, though, who, without a reminder, would reef on it without thinking, until it strips/breaks.

[Gfish]

1]Two speed shift mechanism, handle, gear shaft/low speed[2.2:1] gear, high speed gear[5:1]. I believe the white washers are made of delrin.
The 2-speed shifter was difficult to reassemble.

2] inside of the head-plate with the 3 dogs. Getting the AR cog [on the high speed gear] down in place with all the dogs positioned correctly, was also difficult. Note the ARB. It looks to be all steel and there's a thick delrin bushing on the outside end, and a thinner delrin bushing on the inside end. Not gonna remove the ARB as it is press-fitted in. Put some lite oil on it. If I needed to clean it, I would plug one side with a cork, and spray in inox or another suitable cleaner, flushing until no more discolored fluid comes out.

3] the buttons for the free spool and the strike positions. I'm seein too much plastic here for a reel this expensive. The only metal parts on these button assemblies are the springs and the screws.

[wailua boy]

That reel is boss,,,,,,,

I agree with that statement. Nice score Gfish

[Gfish]

The single piece frame/tail-plate: The moving parts and fasteners are a combination of metal and plastic——WAY TO MUCH PLASTIC! A plastic click spring, pawl and a cir-clip for the cast control knob{so it doesn't screw all the way off}. 2-friction washers for the button and 1-for the pawl. All the rest of the parts are metal.
The clicker POPS! It"s loud and strong. But, I'd prefer metal parts even if they were quieter and weaker. Aside from the plastic cir-clip on the cast control system, it is a nice heavy-duty unit.

[Gfish]

The spool/axel system: 1] spool ball bearings, shaft springs, thrust washers, the 2-speed pinion, pinion bushing, plastic covers, pressure plates, drag washers and various fasteners. And I like to watch/listen to U-tube videos as I work.
I still can't figure out exactly how the twin drag system moves parts on both sides of the spool, so that the drag washers are contacting the pressure plates. Getin it little by little...

2] water got behind the right side drag washer and you might be able to see some on the spool.

3 & 4] close-ups of each side.

[Gfish]

Gotta do the reel clamp as it can be a salt magnet. Also, there's stainless steel touching aluminum. Notice the drain hole on the right. There's another one on the other side in the plastic gear cover.

I'm starting to wonder if maybe the older reels have more metal parts. The first twin-drag Accurate was the '97 ATD 30. Might have to check it out. However, those may be an ARB-only system and that is unacceptable to me. The DPX2 has been flawless, so far. And it's hard to beat 2-speed gearing.

Last 3 pictures: World famous Chef and community activist Roy Yamaguchi's Eating House 1849, on Kaua'i Island. A pure [but expensive] delight to dine there. He innovated the "Hawaiian inspired cuisine"; and this is" French-Californian-Japanese fusion"made with local fresh Island ingredients. He has 30+ restaurants on the mainland, here on the Islands, and Guam. This one is in the original restaurant 1849 building on Kaua'i: The Eating House. What the heck, I was gonna delete these pictures, now they're preserved and my friends in the 3rd picture, whom don't like social media, aren't gonna be clear enough to identify!

The Boss Xtream-DPX2-Dawg Pound, will it be a classic? Probably not, but ya gotta love the name...right?
It all went back together ok, but when I cranked it, or spun the spool in FS, there was a "clunking" sound. Diagnosed it to the spool only, went back in and found nothing visible. Played around with all things spool associated, then put it back together and it works perfect?...? Probably something in the cast control not seated right on the first assembly try? A complicated reel indeed, but a great learning tool.

[mo65]

Wow...sweet reel! Thanks for the tour G.

[Swami805]

Thanks for the look thru.
You ever hook anything big on it?  How it do?

[handi2]

Great job..!! It sure needed it.

Keith

[steelfish]

great walkthrough compadre, that reel sure looks powerfull with the twin drag and 3 dogs plus ARB and still some shimano fanboys think Talicas are the supreme reels 

[Maybe We Can Fix It]

Nice post! Thank you for taking the time to capture and post pics of the breakdown.

The Accurates are nice reels all around, I am becoming a big fan of their engineering and design, the Valiant line showcases some of the new engineering upgrades.

I am a fan of clicking dogs, just something I enjoy hearing on a reel, quite rare for a high performance reel making my go to line the Dauntless, a predecessor to your Accurate in the post.

Nice service!