Reel seat positioning, and why

[JasonGotaProblem]

What determines how far up from the butt you place your reel seat? I believe I have a basic understanding but I would like to check some of those assumptions. I suspect the short answer is its determined by how it'll be used. Like a rod intended for one handed casting likely has the seat closer to the butt. A rod intended to spend a lot of time in a holder probably has a seat further up. Surf rods tend to have a much higher seat. My suspicion is that it's so one can have their hands further apart while 2 handed casting so more leverage can be applied, but folks like Jeri would put the reel seat further down and remind us (forgive me for putting words in your mouth correct me if I'm wrong) that one does not need to be holding the reel to cast if you're holding the line, so one's hands can still be further apart. And don't get me started on bent butt rods and "stand up" rods, etc.

Am I missing anything? Are there minimums or maximums to consider? What other factors influence this placement? How would one define 'bad' placement?

For reference to why I ask, I'm about to build an ultralight spinning rig and I figure since it'll mostly be casting one handed and won't likely be using a rod holder much I'd wanna put the reel seat pretty low, which also lets me maximize my utilization of the length of the rod (a 10' rod with the reel seat half way up is functionally a 5' rod with a big handle?) But not so low that 2 handed casting isn't an option at all.

So many questions swirling around in my head before this first build.

[MarkT]

It's all a personal preference.  You're going custom to get what you want/need.

[SteveL]

Especially for an ultralight, I would think whatever feels right would be best.  Get some masking tape and position a typical reel on different locations to see what seems more ballanced.    If you eliminate the long handle requirement for two handed distance casting, then the other main goal is balance.

For ultralight, this old split grip Lew's spinning rod had the reel about 6" from the butt of the rod.  It feels surprisingly natural.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274679004626

[Cor]

Here is something on this topic:-
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=32142.0

[thorhammer]

Boy, you have a knack for opening a can of worms: on a one handed spinning rod alone, you have to discern whether you will use slip rings (like Tommy), weight of reel for balance (Quicks and Penns will double plastic fantastic), and whether, if you use a regular seat, will it be up- or downlocking. That can move you a couple inches either way. I prefer downlocking whenever possible, as riding around, it's less likely to vibrate itself loose as the weight of the reel isn't tapping the collar ring down on the threads (think hammer drill, same principle. That said, my rods pound in boats in holders all day.

I'm 5'11, 260 and in general for my casting style and power:

one handed rod: UL, 5"; others 6-7"

two handed: 8-14" depending on length and reel weight i intend to use.

surf: 24"-32", depending on length of rod. For a 12' heavy I'm really going to punch into with 8-n-bait on a conventional reel, 32"

Stand-up offshore: 10-11 inches to reel seet, downlocking.

Trolling: I'll use aluminum butts so you get what you get depending on class for offshore; for something like nearshore I'll either use slick butt as above or something around 12" to bottom of seat. I like them to seat in the holders without inserts.

Jigging offshore: whatever fits under my armpit, prolly about 18-20"


This is my input for rods I build for myself, for my express applications and styles of fishing I do where I do it, for my strength and skill level: NC Freshwater for stripers, cats, bass, walleye, crappie; salt for trout, reds, striper, kings, Spanish, pelagics, bottom fishing. I'll founder fish too, but that's a bass reel with a Carolina rig and a circle hook so I'm covered for about 200 of those without building one. I even have a few fly rods but don't flyfish, it just happens. The point of customizing is for it to do something for you that you can't purchase, for whatever reason.  Others will debate every point in here including reel seat orientation; that's fine and I will happily fish your equipment your way on your boat, and hopefully I learn something...I ask a ton of questions on other's rigging, from hook to rod to boat trailer...

[Rivverrat]

     This brings an issue that I stand in disagreement with.

    Speaking of custom rods my thoughts are, it is in fact not a custom rod if one follows the cookie cutter ideas that off the shelf possess. Things to keep in mind are as follows others will add their thoughts...


    1) What will the rod be used for ? This includes distance desired when cast & weight used. Also how hard does the person wish to pull etc. the length of the butt section determines how much leverage can be easily
       used when casting & fighting fish

    2) How tall is the individual ? A measurement from elbow to palm or to finger tips is a good place to start. I stand in complete disagreement that all rail rods need a 13" butt. Dont wish to move the reel seat forward to
        gain length. It robs the rod of needed recoil when placed on the rail.

       Take a fella like Mark he's tall, with a long reach. I'll bet he has trouble using most rods under right arm pit if he's right handed. He will be completely hamstrung, uncomfortable using the 13" butt rule for a rail rod.
       That a 13" butt is needed for all, on all rail rods is , is complete BS!

   3)    How will the rod be used ? While cranking fake baits being jigs etc. or fighting fish?  People feel comfortable placing the butt of the rod in different places on their body while working baits
       or fighting fish. Fact is one can wrap a nice looking rod but it falls short if these simple things aren't the focus... Jeff

[Midway Tommy]

Edit: Jeff & Thor posted while I was typing, but here goes anyway.

For me it's balance, that's why I have Tennessee style slip ring grips on all of my rods. The type of fishing I do, mostly freshwater live bait trolling & slip bobbering, usually demands very sensitive feel. By the time you see the line or rod twitch it's too late. I never use a rod holder, we just hold the rod. If I had to use a holder I wouldn't fish, but if you boat fish & use a holder you need enough grip behind the seat to secure the rod. It also helps those that cast heavier lures two handed.   

[thorhammer]

Everything Jeff said is how I arrived at my personal spacing- that they work for me, where I had a shortcoming in an off the shelf rod. Rods I've built for members here, Wally15, Reel fishing problems, Biggiesmallzz, took these same types of things into account.

[Brewcrafter]

I have never been partial to slip rings (not sure that i can say why, just that's the way it is) and I have two old slip ring style rods but Tommy made a great point that is totally making me rethink my own light spinner setups - that ability to be able to shift reel location up and down the handle to maintain that  comfortable balance is a pretty cool upside.  Going from one of my old "built like a tank DAM's" to one of my "latest and greatest all-alloy skirted spools" on my frontline freshwater rigs does result in two entirely different handling setups - using ring clamps would allow that extra adjustment.  Always learning... - john

[oc1]

For me, it is 16 inches right now.  That is only because if the handle is any longer I will bang it on the side of the canoe and that will scare off the fish.

Surf rods have traditionally had a long handle so they are not so tip-heavy.  It is part of the balance that Tommy mentioned.  Personally, I would rather add counterweight in the butt than have that long handle stuck in my crotch or armpit.

Gluing the reel seat in the wrong place is a fatal error.  You might have to start over.  Having some flexibility in reel placement after the rod is built is a definite advantage.

[oldmanjoe]

    How long is the blank ? How long do you want the stick to be ?   What kind of reel seat ?    Are you going to fight big fish ?   
   Do you want to counter balance the stick ?    How strong are you arm and wrists , can you do a lot of snap cast ?  Do you want a adjustable butt ?

[jurelometer]

You answered your own question.   It depends.  If you know how you are fishing the rod, you know where you want the reel seat.

Best to think in terms of the distance from butt to reel handle shaft  and not the beginning of the reel seat.  Seats can be different lengths, and which direction you mount them will make a big difference.

I am not a big believer in one way being generally better than the other in terms of reel seat direction.  With a big game outfit, I believe  that you want the load to be pulling against the fixed hood. For a conventional casting reel where you have to thumb the spool,  having the fixed hood at the bottom means that  you are not grabbing the threads.  And so on.  

A few more thoughts:  

If you are building a three or four piece travel rod, esp. if  using stiff reel seat arbors, you might have to go with a shorter rear grip than you prefer.  Otherwise, you might end up concentrating load at the bottom ferrule when fighting a big fish.

If you know which reels that you are going to use, you might be able to shorten the reel seat.

I lurve Fuji graphite reel seats.  Dirt cheap, don't corrode, don't scratch reels, conform to more reel foot shapes, and don't  get "hammer drill loose"  as easily as many aluminum seats.   Fuji makes an optional lock ring, which I like to use whenever I remember  to order one.  I have taken factory rods apart to get rid of fancy name brand  aluminum seats that did a crappy job of holding a favorite reel.

For saltwater conventional casting, my favorite is no seat at all.  I realliy like cord wrapped deckand grips.  It is  sort of the heavy duty, saltwater two handed equivalent of slip rings.  

-J

[steelfish]

here we go again !!   

[Jeri]

The simple answer is that you put it where 'you' want it!!!

There are no right and wrong placements, just what is comfortable for you, not someone else. Simple really................

[JasonGotaProblem]

Well I got busy last night. I ended up mounting a bit higher than i originally planned because that's where it felt natural.

Shoulda researched more about shaping cork first though. As most of you already knew, they come with 1/4" center holes, but my rod butt is definitely not 1/4" so I got out the trusty drill. I shaped the outside by wrapping a drill bit in paper and putting it down the center hole and held a piece of sandpaper still. Its kinda rough, but i kinda love it. I may put a bead of black silicone over the top and bottom of the grip so you cant see how rough the center holes are. At least they're roughly centered.

That butt cap is just a placeholder. I had bought a proper butt cap, and lets just say i got my learning out of the way on that, and now I need a new one. No black silicone can save that.