ID this rod OLD vintage solid glass rod

[steelfish]

Alex, I know you, and you could whip on six new guides in the time it takes you to read this thread

LOL, not really, I tend to dont rush on when wrapping a rod, never !
I doing this for relaxing not for being hurried or stressed out to finish a job

Steel,
The neatest way to re attach for me once separated, clean up the wood and seat then I apply a good dose of epoxy only to the inside of the seat, not a lot smooshes out onto the top of the seat on reassembly.

thanks for the tip, hopefully the wood section inside the reelseat will withstand a good fish if the rod is used again

[oldmanjoe]

 I have rebuilt a few of these fiberglass sticks  over the years  .   Pictures of the wood would help id this stick easier .
  I think it is a toss up between true Temper and Garcia .
  I personal like the glass sticks  ..

[steelfish]

those really look good Joe,

this one, its reaaaally heavy, only option is to build it for bottom fishing or  trolling (local trolling not off-shore like in the Pacific ocean)

[day0ne]

dayone,
It's a one piecer glued together for keeps, Higher end rods going back to say the Tycoon's or later the Harnell's were ferruled at the seat. There would be a knurled ring at the end of the seat, usually the rod end, but could be either end, that threaded into the removable part.  This one is a hardware store special lacking that and other upscale features. I still fish them, but like to use reels with rod clamps, and pay attention to the single screw seat.  They seem to outnumber reels by about 3 to 1 at the flea markets.

I still say that is a  2 piece rod. I've had quite a few of them. They didn't have threaded ferrules, they just pushed together ( and usually froze that way with corrosion). The reason I suggested the Lakeland reel seat was to get the threaded ferrule. I've probably rebuilt a half dozen of these rods. They definitely weren't of the Harnell quality

[steelfish]

I still say that is a  2 piece rod. I've had quite a few of them. They didn't have threaded ferrules, they just pushed together

yep, this one it has a ferrule on the foregrip and the reelseat, right now its frozen, I actually wanted to separated them and found out the wood that is inserted on the reargrip and reelseat is lose and cranking, hopefully only the glue is the one cranking and not the wood.

[Midway Tommy]

Back in the day Montague made a solid glass rod with a two piece handle. Here's one in really nice condition that still has its decal. It looks looks kind of similar to yours, Alex. Most of the old solid glass casting & boat rods were a one piece rod, but the two piecers, spinning, etc. had to use ferrules since they had a solid core.

[oc1]

That small beaded lathe work is a signature of Montague. The bottom of the red mushroom butt cap should be marked Montague too.

[Ron Jones]

All I know is I had a rod that looked a lot like it in the 70s. I tied about 8 ft of line to the tip (the conventional reel was siezed) and was the terror of every smelt, perch and occasional croaker or bass on the Oceanside, Ca T dock!

Great times

The Man

[steelfish]

well, I already have a Montague rod (with the mushroom buttcap) with a missing metal reelseat (still not fixed) and also have a true temper ambassadeur solid glass (regular good shape but with the ferrule frozen and reelseat and running guides are not aligned, I couldnt separated yet), those two dont seem similar to this one I posted on this thread, this one is kind of appealing because the naked glass blank almost translucent while the others vintage rods are solid glass painted blanks.
check

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=28056.0

[philaroman]

curious: since it's solid, can you sand aggressively to actually remove blank material & change taper...  lighter tip, etc.

[steelfish]

curious: since it's solid, can you sand aggressively to actually remove blank material & change taper...  lighter tip, etc.

good question, but I doubt it.



(thinking for me) hmmm sounds like I would try.. just for the Science !!

[oc1]

curious: since it's solid, can you sand aggressively to actually remove blank material & change taper...  lighter tip, etc.

May be possible but it would be a tedious and a mess.  There would have to be a heavy finish coat to avoid splinters.

[oldmanjoe]

  That green rod was sanded heavy , the tip was 14 and is now a 7  .     A little over a hundred thousands came off in minutes with 120 sand paper in a drill .
    320 grit was next , that will take care of the open glass , finish with 400 wet .      I painted it green because it is my goose Island rod ...

[steelfish]

That green rod was sanded heavy , the tip was 14 and is now a 7  .     A little over a hundred thousands came off in minutes with 120 sand paper in a drill .
    320 grit was next , that will take care of the open glass , finish with 400 wet .      I painted it green because it is my goose Island rod ...

pretty interesting Joe, so, what about of the rest of the blank?  did you sanded from the handle to the tip or just the last half of the blank to reduce the taper and tip?

will it still handle a nice fish?

[oldmanjoe]

 I worked about 3/4 of the stick , but most of the last half .    While it is spinning i can bend and sand at the same time .
It is weird as you sand you can feel the new action develop in your hand .    By keeping it in a bend and spinning it does not whip you  !!!!!
   You can make it a fast tip or a slow tip .      Mine is a moderate fast action .