Shimano 100Q AX BIO GRIP spinning reel anti reverse ratchet RD-1887 needed

[LSE]

I found a rod and reel in a garbage can at a local pond. The rod was fine but the reel was all jammed up. I disassembled the Shimano 100Q AX BIO GRIP Quick Fire II reel and was impressed with the quality. It matches an 89-26 parts diagram I found on line. The only thing broken is the anti reverse ratchet RD-1887. I can't locate this part on line, would somebody here be kind enough to sell me one or direct me to an appropriate source? I would also be interested in a parts reel purchase if necessary. I am recently retired and would like to use this reel for freshwater fishing. Thank-you.

[Wompus Cat]

Welcome .
Your request is not being ignored it's just the Right peeps have not seen it yet .

[philaroman]

this is your reel from '89, correct?
https://www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Shimano/AX%20Series/SHIMANO%20AX100Q%2889-26%29.pdf
how sure are you that the alloy one-tooth ratchet is broken
it's a weird looking part, if you're not familiar & the two parts under it -- spring & lockout for silent A/R
are the most fragile, delicate parts in entire reel

[philaroman]

just thought of something -- do a photo of your RD-1887 "ratchet/cam" next to ruler, coins, etc.
I have a bunch of these one-tooth things from early 90's reels, that are different RD part#,
BUT, I also have a couple from mid-80's MLX models that pre-date Shimano's RD-XXXX part numbering system,
so it may be the same part, from BEFORE it acquired the modern part# (if that makes sense)

[LSE]

Yes, that drawing matches my reel. After garbage picking the reel I was able to get everything working except for the anti reverse function. I began disassembling the reel and a small alloy piece of broken metal fell onto my work bench from beneath the RD 1884 rotor. It was the same texture and color as the RD 1894 reverse pawl that I could partially see. I figured it must be broken so I stopped the disassembly before I had too much apart. I found a reverse pawl on line and ordered it. When the reverse pawl arrived I completed disassembling the reel and was puzzled to find the reverse pawl was intact. It took a while to find what appeared to be a smooth break on the RD 1887 reverse ratchet outside circumference where the drawing shows a side lug should be. I think this missing lug would be for the reverse pawl to engage. All other associated parts beneath the anti reverse ratchet appear fine. Unfortunately this is my first reel repair and only Shimano reel so the only reference I have is this drawing. Your interest and help is appreciated.

I am better with dial calipers than with a camera, hope these measurements of my damaged anti reverse ratchet will work:

.415"   main body OD       .352"   shoulder for spring OD       .392"   end lug OD
.305"   overall length at end lugs       .248"   overall length between end lugs
.154"   width of end lugs       .275"   major ID for shaft       .240"   minor ID for shaft

[philaroman]

tough luck...  you have an odd duck...  from schematics, I can grock:

despite "100" in model#, it is NOT Shimano 10/100/1000-size, but in the smallest ULS/500/750 category

FX-100 is the grossly cheapened budget version, which you cannot use (and wouldn't want, IMO)
pinion/ratchet is one hunk of alloy, permanently peened to rotor & connects to body differently -- NO NUTS  
https://www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Shimano/FX%20Series/SHIMANO%20FX100%2888-35%29.pdf
https://www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Shimano/FX%20Series/SHIMANO%20FX100%2889-29%29.pdf

1990 Shimano SG2-6 [RARE!!!] looks like the updated/upgraded version, which you'd want even more than duplicate AX-100Q
https://www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Shimano/Misc/SHIMANO%20SG2-6%2890-13%29.pdf

starting w/ 1991, Shimano redesigned almost everything -- doubt your A/R setup was ever repeated in later model

you may be able to file down the broken part into a keyed cam for a regular steel 8-tooth ratchet used in UL Shimano's without a casting trigger
you'd loose the self-centering feature, but reduce handle back-play by 800% & make the reel stronger (major upgrade, IMO)
may need to tinker a bit & file dog(pawl) to fit, but you just bought a spare one -- correct?

[Rancanfish]

Roman, you had me scrambling to grock 'grock', lol.

[philaroman]

Roman, you had me scrambling to grock 'grock', lol.

kinda' funny: came across my dusty Stranger In a Strange Land where the made-up word originates
about 1/2 day before I needed something to rhyme w/ luck & duck & means understand/comprehend

[LSE]

Thank-you for all the information and time you spent trying to help me. I need to ponder what you wrote and study your attachments. I did want to answer your question immediately and clarify that I am willing to purchase a parts reel if somebody has one, that may be the only way I can fix this one.

In your opinion is this a reel worth fixing? It looks like a well made reel but I sure don't have the reel experience that I'm seeing on this site. Thanks for all your help.

[philaroman]

all my reels of that type are from '91 & later, so without any direct handling
I'd guess your reel is well-made, but poor design (A/R, especially -- hence, the damage & design not repeated in later models)
IMHO, ALL self-centering A/R is crap to begin with & yours is especially ill-conceived
pawl seems excessively robust/rigid for tiny downsized alloy unobtanium ratchet -- if simply replaced,
one & only tooth likely to snap AGAIN, unless you hold the rotor when you set the hook...  RELIGIOSLY!
otherwise, the reel has "good bones" & absolutely SCREAMS for the modification I mentioned:

you may be able to file down the broken part into a keyed cam for a regular steel 8-tooth ratchet used in UL Shimano's without a casting trigger
you'd loose the self-centering feature, but reduce handle back-play by 800% & make the reel stronger (major upgrade, IMO)

then, the "big-boy" pawl becomes an asset, rather than liability -- actually, HORIZONTAL-ON-TOP pawl is a desirable rarity
(usually, there's a less stable vertical bar completely or partially inside the gearbox in smallest spinners of that era)
you just want it clicking between 8-10 steel teeth -- not, repeatedly slamming into same alloy tooth after 360* wind-up

I have fewer steel ratchets than reels that need them, so I can't send you a bunch of different ratchets & pawls, on spec
consider a trade -- what do you need / how do you fish?  I don't have a good tiny reel to unload, now

[LSE]

Thanks for another thorough explanation, now I understand why it broke and somebody left it in a trash can. The AR pawl does look extremely huge compared to the broken ratchet. Your idea of using an 8 tooth steel ratchet is intriguing but I haven't seen one and don't know what model number reel to search for the parts schematic. Could you post a link to one of these UL Shimano reels you are referencing?  I have a vertical mill and small lathe to help with modifications or possibly making a better design AR ratchet so it doesn't just break again.

I will just be fresh water fishing in Georgia creeks and lakes for catfish, bass, brim, and such. All my reels are older models but they work fine thanks to this site: South Bend Classic 930, Daiwa 130X, Shakespeare 2052, Garcia GK200, and Daiwa GC80.

[philaroman]

OK, you obviously have your hands nailed on right    and want to tinker -- not, trade

Your idea of using an 8 tooth steel ratchet is intriguing but I haven't seen one and don't know what model number reel to search for the parts schematic. Could you post a link to one of these UL Shimano reels you are referencing?  I have a vertical mill and small lathe to help with modifications or possibly making a better design AR ratchet so it doesn't just break again.

I don't think such a small Shimano-made ratchet exists...  have trouble finding ANY small ones
I was thinking of trying the smallest I had & reducing the dog
If I were to make one from scratch, I'd pass on steel & start w/ thick brass disk (or washer w/ very small ID)
make OD slightly past estimated point of original snaggletooth [don't cut teeth, YET!!!] 
cut the centerhole keyed to the pinion, then file down original alloy ratchet from the top,
to turn it into a spacer that positions new brass ratchet in a plane w/ the pawl
[make sure you record dimensions of original ratchet -- you may need add washers to build up to same height]
THEN, DECIDE HOW MANY TEETH TO CUT!!!  you may only have room for 6 w/ such small OD

this is no relation to your reel -- just clear schematics of simple big old "roomy" models for visualization:
MLX-200 is self-centering w/ trigger / MLZ-20 is 10-point no trigger -- otherwise, same reel & everything swaps
https://www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Shimano/Misc/SHIMANO%20MLX-200%281981%29.pdf
https://www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Shimano/Misc/SHIMANO%20MLZ-20%281981%29.pdf

[LSE]

After looking at the MLZ-20 I now understand why you were suggesting a brass disk. I don't think I want to file down the top of my broken ratchet because I would lose the 2 end lugs that engage the rear of the rotor... but the rotor ID is machined to engage the pinion gear so maybe the end lugs are redundant.  I was hoping brass would be a good material as it is easier to machine than steel. I was thinking about trying to make 3 or 4 teeth on a ratchet, I haven't got my hands around how to make the lead in ramps uniform yet, hopefully I will come up with something when I start machining. Thanks for another detailed explanation to help me. I'll let you know how this turns out, probably on a rainy day.

I have one more question for you if you haven't run out of patience with me yet    I have the opportunity to purchase on line a Shimano 100Q PSX Pro series reel that looks identical to my reel but after a good bit of searching I cannot find a parts schematic of it anywhere. Can you send me a link for it so I can compare the inner parts to my reel? Thanks for all your help and ideas, I appreciate it.

[philaroman]

sorry, forgot about matching prongs...  more on that later...  will try to locate your prospective donor -- expect there's something more in model name -- look for something Shimanoey (Speedmaster, Triton, etc.)

[LSE]

If you want to see the reel it is on ebay and is item 304028262822, I looked carefully several times and could only find Shimano PSX PRO SERIES 100Q BIO GRIP.

Boy, I'm learning Shimano doesn't make this easy... kind of reminds me of trying to fix an AMC product back in my automotive days.