Stainless Steel corrosion

Started by AlasKen, June 21, 2021, 04:17:35 AM

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AlasKen

I was gifted a 410 stainless steel snake charmer as a halibut gun for those halibut between 70 and 100 lbs.  We release any we think are 100 or over. 

This gun was kept on the boat and not wiped down as often as it should have been.  The bore is clean and pristine.  There is what looks like surface rust on the outside of the barrel and trigger assembly.

I am wondering what would be the best way to clean the surface rust?

Ron Jones

If it indeed stainless, and not nickel plating, then I would wipe it down with a solvent such as Hoppe's No 9 or even WD-40. It might take some light rubbing with an SOS pad. There might be some staining left behind, but no further degradation.

If the staining is an issue, you can get it out with a very mild abrasive, I'd start with 20000 grit paper and work down. The issue with this is that you will almost certainly create a spot bigger than the stain where the finish doesn't match the rest of the firearm. I typically find a few rust stains more attractive than a mismatched finish. If neither of those options are acceptable then the entire firearm, or at least the entire part, will need to be polished.

The Man
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

PacRat

If I were to scrub one of these I would make certain to either use stainless steel wool or Scotchbrite pads with the oil of your choice. The reason for avoiding SOS pads or regular steel wool is because you can burnish iron into the stainless steel which will turn brown. In my job we install a lot of stainless steel fabrications into chemical plants and sometimes the knuckleheads in fabrication will clean up their welds with non-stainless wire wheels and it will rust wherever they 'cleaned up' their work.

A lot of firearms people use Scotchbright to even out the finish on stainless steel firearms. You can start with coarser pads and work your way to white which will be the finer finish. You could even do a final buff with Flitz or Mothers metal polish if you like it shiny.

-Mike

day0ne

Try a rag and CorrosionX. It may suprise you
David


"Lately it occurs to me: What a long, strange trip it's been." - R. Hunter

oc1

#4
That's great information Mike.  

Google says:
When stainless steel is exposed to oxygen, a layer of chromium oxide forms on the surface. This happens because chromium has a very strong affinity for oxygen. The chromium oxide, in most cases, is a very thin layer that doesn't spawl off. It prevents any further oxidation of the stainless steel.

To even out the finish you have to remove much of that protective layer (or, at least, feather it out) and then let the surface oxidize again more uniformly.

Rust spots often form where there is some sort of failing coating.  Like under some old varnish or silicone sealer that is starting to peel.  If there is moisture but no oxygen that protective oxidized layer does not form or renew and there may be rusting and staining.

AlasKen

Thanks all.  This is good info and appreciated.

Ron Jones

Yikes!
I meant Scotch Bright. Please listen to PacRat and do NOT use an SOS pad!
The Man
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

zoner

Fine steel wool(000) and oil  would be a good call

RowdyW

 0000 STAINLESS STEEL wool! Not steel wool!

PacRat

#9
I got these quotes from a Ruger site.

"I refinished this gun and I used a red Scotchbrite pad to get the matte finish. The green is a little finer and the white is the finest. These are the most common grades that you will find in most hardware stores. One hint, always rub in the same direction. Do not use a swirling motion. If you look at your gun, you will see a 'grain' in the metal. Rub in the same direction."

"I have a bench grinder where I removed one of the grinder wheels and the protective cover. I then bought gray 3-M pads .... fold them to form a square then cut off the excess. Punch a hole in the center then mount the folded pad on the grinder shaft using a set of aluminum guides.
The entire surface of the stainless gun is then buffed with the 3M pad. This leaves a finish just like the factory brushed finish ... plus it will remove minor scratches and dings. This process is very controllable and works way better and faster than trying to do it by hand."

Just make certain that your Snake Charmer is stainless steel (use a magnet, not 100% but good for most SS). I saw a video that claimed that the Snake Charmer was nickle plated and it looked plated in the video (although it may have been hard chromed).

-Mike