Help needed with digtal printing.

[buzzawak]

So I am restoring a Shakespeare reel and want to reproduce the worn-out text using printable water slide decals.
Do we have any digital print expertise here who can talk me through the process?
I am trying to get my head around printer DPI and matching that with what I see on the screen.

Thanks

[happyhooker]

You are talking about using some sort of computer printer (the kind that can print out text/pics on paper) to print out a decal that you can then apply to the reel?

Frank

[PacRat]

If you haven't already done so; try some searches on modeling forums, especially 'space modeling'. These guys do a lot of scale rockets and missiles for which no kits ever existed so they make their own. I'll try to get you pointed in the right direction:
Space Modeling (https://www.facebook.com/groups/SpaceModeling)
Model Rocketry Fanatics!!! (https://www.facebook.com/groups/modrf)
Tripoli Rocketry Association (https://www.facebook.com/groups/cjscjn)
Balsa Model Aircraft Builders Association (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1510169962560076)
Unofficial Tripoli & NAR Rocketry Group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/trauncensored)

Sorry these are all FB groups. If you don't do FB you can try just googling their names and they might have more traditional sites.
Good luck
Mike

[buzzawak]

You are talking about using some sort of computer printer (the kind that can print out text/pics on paper) to print out a decal that you can then apply to the reel?
Frank

Yes

[buzzawak]

Thanks, PacRat I will check out those links.
this is what I am trying to reproduce.

[PacRat]

I have a similar need (want) but I haven't put much effort into it (other than pondering). What perplexes me is how to reproduce the white script with a home printer. I think producing waterslide decals is the easy half of the equation. With silk screening you would just use white ink but with a home printer we are limited to three colors and black. You might be able to put down a white vinyl or paint first  and then leave the script in negative so that the underlying white will show through the waterslide.
Also, I believe the waterslide decals need to be 'fixed' after applying to preserve them. This may also help prevent yellowing. I have seen waterslide supplies at HobbyLobby.
Please share your results if you pull this off.
-Mike

[jurelometer]

I have a similar need (want) but I haven't put much effort into it (other than pondering). What perplexes me is how to reproduce the white script with a home printer. I think producing waterslide decals is the easy half of the equation. With silk screening you would just use white ink but with a home printer we are limited to three colors and black. You might be able to put down a white vinyl or paint first  and then leave the script in negative so that the underlying white will show through the waterslide.
Also, I believe the waterslide decals need to be 'fixed' after applying to preserve them. This may also help prevent yellowing. I have seen waterslide supplies at HobbyLobby.
Please share your results if you pull this off.
-Mike

Both true.

For decals with whites that will be applied over a non-white substrate, there is white water slide decal stock that can be used instead of the clear stuff.

If you print on an inkjet (not sure about laser printers), you will need to coat with a clear  acrylic spray to "fix" the ink before wetting the decal for application.   The substrate has to be completely smooth.  Oh, and the decals need to be top coated with a hard clearcoat after application, as decals are not durable at all on their own.  So it may not  look like the original , if that is the goal.

I sometimes make printed decals to avoid having to paint lures and popper flies.  Not too tricky to get a good looking and reasonably long lasting result if matched with a durable topcoat.  But the adhesive in the decal sheet is weak.  If the topcoat gets cracked or otherwise compromised, the whole decal area pops right off in one chunk.  I have been playing with water thinned adhesives to use underneath the decal improve this, but have not field tested yet.

-J

[buzzawak]

Last night I got a lot of helpful information by searching Youtube for "make model car decals". I am getting close to printing at an exact size.
I have decided to go with Paint.Net which is a freeware raster graphics editor program. It seems to be a bit of "trial & error" to dial everything in.
Setting the canvas size in the paint program to the printers printable area and not the paper size got me closer to where I need to be.
This product has been recommended to improve adhesion. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Microscale-BMF129-Micro-Setting-Solution/dp/B0006O9K4W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1547670830&sr=8-2&keywords=microset

[happyhooker]

First off, I think the idea absolutely amazing and can't understand (although my wife can) why I didn't ever think of it myself.

Second, I have done a bit of computer printing over the years, using a variety of programs, but would not claim the title of expert by any means.

It has already been mentioned that there is a special white decal stock that may be useful, given that an inkjet can't print white.

Another hobby that makes use of these decals is model train set building.  A Google of that will produce some interesting info.

One of the posters mentioned an acrylic spray to fix the decal.  Somewhere in something I read, another alternative was to apply some sort of clear sheet material over the decal, apply the decal, then hit it with a spray.

Finally,as far as your DPI and sizing, perhaps my solution is too simplistic, but once you compose your proposed decal (scanning in your artwork?), can it just be printed out on ordinary paper as a test?

Look forward to more updates as you proceed.

Frank

[buzzawak]

Thanks for the input Happyhooker. Of course one could do a number of test prints on plain paper until the size is right. My goal is to get the parameters sorted upfront
so I can bring an image (scanned or off the net) into the paint program, make any adjustments to size it using the rule in the paint program and know it will print out that size.
No fluffing about with test prints.   

[Wompus Cat]

If that image is the one you are going to use a good photo editor will remove all the scratches it has

[oc1]

This is a tough one.  Just cutting out the decal after it is printed and laying it in place would be difficult for me.  Any finish that gets over on the silver sideplate is going to show.  Steady hand work here for sure.

[steelhead_killer]

Ok I'll chime in on this one.  You need a printshop that can print on black stock with white toner.  That's a tough one. It requires a 5th station for the 5th color toner.  Ricoh and Xerox are the only ones that make gear designed to do that.  However, it's the punch that will be the biggest challenge.  In order to get that exact shape a punch has to be made for post printing sizing. That's more costly.  If you want to try and free hand cut it after the print you could.  Lastly the stock needs to be a synthetic and water proof and coated both sides.  My 2 cents

Andy

[PacRat]

A lot of suggestions coming your way. I have another. You will undoubtedly have at least one printed on decal stock that you are not 100% satisfied with. Go ahead and apply that to a piece of practice material and then fix it or clear coat it. You can even cut it into smaller pieces and experiment with various fixatives. Then place all your samples in direct sunlight to check the affects of UV light on the finished product. Printer ink has improved (remember when photos faded so quickly?). Even if this reel is to be a shelf-queen, it will likely be exposed to some UV light.

Some clear coat products have UV inhibitors but you'll want to make certain that it will protect the ink below the clear. There is also a product that comes in a bottle like nail polish with a brush in the cap. This is marketed for waterslide decals and I believe its to prevent the decals from cracking or peeling off over time. Yellowing will be another concern but that takes a long time so you will need to trust product reviews on whether or not your choice of clear will yellow over time.

-Mike

[buzzawak]

Thank you PacRat, you are handy to have around, I tend to take one step at a time and hope it leads me to the right conclusion. You take a step back and look at the bigger picture first.

OK! A bit of progress! My printer and paint.net graphics program are now in unison. If I draw a box on the screen of 4" x 3" that is exactly what comes out of the printer.