Punch tool

[sandbar]

Greetings,
I have purchased two different punch sets to remove the pins from D.A.M. reels. I really only need the small diameter punches. The rest are a waste of money. The small diameter punches that I need tend to distort and break. I'm looking for high quality hardened steel punches that I can buy separately.

[Squidder Bidder]

You may want to check out Brownells or another firearms oriented site which sells gunsmithing tools. You should look for straight punches rather than tapered punches so you don't risk ovaling out the punch holes. 

A while ago I bought a Starrett 1/32" taper punch from Amazon which I use to start punching the bridge sleeve pins out on older Penn conventionals. Because it has a taper it has its limitations (unless I'm going to scrap the brass sleeve to replace with stainless) but it's a high quality hardened steel tool.

[Midway Tommy]

I've bought individual Dasco punches in my preferred sizes many times. You just have to find a hardware store that sells them individually.

[cmdrzog]

kctool.com is an online tool source that has always given me good service

[oldmanjoe]

I will chime in with this little tidbit , I shorten the punch and use them to start the process . you have more control and power to the pin .... 

[sandbar]

Joe the punches are way too long. I think that is the reason that they bend. Once you start it what do you use to finish?

[Squidder Bidder]

Sandar -

You may be looking for a "short pin punch" such as below:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/grace-short-pin-punch-kit-sku100025421-109746-207750.aspx

They're made short to avoid bending/breaking the punch if you need to wail on it a bit.

[Bill B]

Because I'm a cheapskate I have been making my own by grinding down a large finish nail and heat treating it myself.  I heat treat by using a torch heating it red hot and quenching in oil.  When they bend or break I just make another.  Bill

[oldmanjoe]

Joe the punches are way too long. I think that is the reason that they bend. Once you start it what do you use to finish?

That is why i said  cut down the punch  , we use about 1 inch and most times only 3/4 inch of the punch .
  This is were a cheap punch becomes handy , it starts the pin moving , the other punch set can be the long set ....

[sandbar]

Just ordered a couple of the Brownell punches. Cutting down a longer punch didn't work. It kept slipping to one side. I've been beating up the poor Microlite handle. Update coming on my Microlite post. Thank You all for your input.

[foakes]

Another little useful trick —-

Make a few hard wood (oak, birch, walnut, alder —- not pine or fir) cradles for punching out the pins in the cranks and the gear axles.

Best, Fred

[sandbar]

I've been using a hole drilled in my pine work bench that has been working up until now. I have some old heart pine blocks that are hard as a rock.
What brand of punches do you use?

[Midway Tommy]

Many of the solid pins are manufactured a little larger on one end so they stay in place and can only be removed in one direction. Are you sure you are trying to remove in the correct direction. Generally the larger end has a slight domed appearance. I've never broken a punch trying to remove a pin, but I have had the punch slide off before I learned how to tell which direction to drive the pin.

[foakes]

Tommy brings up a good point —-

In these old solid steel pins —- generally one end is a little larger, tapered, or also fluted.

Got to remember, these are 62 year old reels that have likely never had the pin removed.

The process of aluminum mating with steel —- and causing  a "bonding process" is referred to as "galvanic corrosion".

All that needs to be done —- is use a magnifying glass to figure out which end to drive the pin out from —- secure the handle solidly —- use a good punch and a substantial hammer.

One proper blow will start the pin moving —- then small taps will take it out completely.

This is generally not the case with other DQ's —- since the handle material is chromed brass —- and the pin expands to hold —- and the pin is going into a steel axle —- and just holding the handle in place naturally.

The issue is on the early Microlites, Finessa 280 & 285, and all of the Supers.

On the larger Supers that get used primarily in Salt-Water —- the galvanic corrosion is generally much worse.

I have a 6 ton press that I have adapted with a Jacobs Chuck to press out these troublesome pins on the Supers.

I have always used Craftsman punches in sizes —- 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8". 

If any of your parts are too messed up —- I have plenty of replacements —- no worries.

Best, Fred

[Paul Roberts]

Well... I happen to be doing a 440N right now. I have a set of good punches, but not a perfect fit. So, I've been using a small nail with the point cut off flush. Just long enough to hold, and short enough not to bend.

I support the handle on a block of wood, with a hole drilled through for the pin to punch through.