A Rod Build for DD Casting Reels

[Paul Roberts]

Thought this might be more appropriate in this section of the site. Rods and direct-drive reels go together maybe a bit more than with modern casting reels. At least in start up inertia likely being more noticeable with DD reels.

So I've been refurbishing direct-drive casting reels to fish with. It's been a fun ride. I didn't want to put them on a modern rod, and the vintage (glass) rods I've found at good prices leave a lot to be desired as fishing tools. So I decided to work up a few of my own. Here's the first:

I used a CTS 7' Med 1/4-5/8oz S-Glass blank, all the way from New Zealand. 8 to 12lb lines are probably appropriate. Finding acceptable handle components was a challenge, I finally cobbled together something that would suffice: simple chrome plated aluminum seat, full wells handle, burnt cork foregrip and butt cap. The jumping bass on the butt cap is authentic "vintage" being a Hickok cuff link from the 1950's, spray painted nickel silver.

The finished rod is 6'6" and weighs 4.5oz. The action is progressive, which lends itself well to the somewhat high inertia DD reels (compared with modern casting reels). It'll be interesting fishing with a glass rod again; It's been a lot of years. I'm thinking this'll be mostly a treble hook rod. Will be dabbling further with appropriate rods for these reels, likely some graphite blanks too. Will see what I can come up with.

Now, which reel to match with it?

[Bill B]

Wow!  Outstanding builds.  Bill

[oldmanjoe]

           Nice   I like the clean look of the hidden hood ...

[Reeltyme]

Beautiful build Paul. For me, the Shake or the Coxe,, probably the Coxe.

[Paul Roberts]

Thanks folks.

oldmanjoe, the only thing I would have liked to find, or add, was an old strap trigger. It's not necessary but would be cool.

Reeltyme, the Coxe 25 does look nice on the rod and is a fun reel to cast. So far, I've only cast this rod with a Pflueger Nobby. But I've managed to collect up good working examples of Coxe, Pflueger, Langley, Shakespeare, and South Bend reels, and all are good casters. When I clear some time I'll bring a pile of reels down to the pond and give em all a whirl. I'll probably be fishing nearly all of them at one time or another.

[oc1]

That's a really nice looking rod there Paul. 

Sometimes you can salvage glass blanks from old tobacco fibergalss fly rods  Some like the Silaflex, California Tackle and St.Croix can be made into a sweet baitcasting rod.  Just shy away from the Conolon.

You can often find old dropped reel seat trigger handles (I don't know what those things are called) for one handed rods.  When the rod was broken people would take off and save the handle/reel seat.  Like me you use a two-handed handle and fnding a vintage one of those with the trigger drop-down seat thing is difficult.

[Paul Roberts]

Hi, Steve. Thanks.

I've read about your creativity with old glass fly rods. I've toyed with the idea in the past, but will look a little more seriously. I'm not at all afraid to strip down rods and cut up blanks, at either ends.

As to seats, I've not looked too heavily into the drop down, low profile, seats mostly bc of their potential weight. But also bc I've not found them cheap enough to experiment with. I'm happy with the straight handles. Apparently Jason Lucas was too, so I guess they are keeping "in style".

[Shellbelly]

Nice slick rigs!  The old "drop-downs" that are mostly still out there aren't made of the greatest materials.  Even if they're clean looking, I'm wary that the metal is ready to erupt through the finish.

You can find salvageable chromed brass seats w/a trigger underneath.  Almost all of our saltwater casting rods had these when I was a kid.  It helped me conquer the direct drive hurdle.

Can't say when that little feature went away but my finger still acts like it's there. 

[Paul Roberts]

Thanks, Shellbelly. Seems many of the early ones are cast metal, and heavy. I can repaint them and maybe even come up with a robust way to fit a tubular blank to them. I'll be keeping my eyes open.

The Varmac seats I've found have almost all been too large, 23/64" I believe. And not easy to come by. I did find a smaller freshwater one but it is anodized black and I'd like chrome or silver. Thought of nickel-silver spray paint although I think the result will...look spray-painted.

Will be playing around. Fun projects, and with old fiberglass blanks, not much of an investment considering such rods for DD bass reels tend to be on the short side.

[Lingwendil]

Love it, I like the older Pflueger direct drive reels like the Summit, Akron, and Supreme, and would love to do a custom drop seat build for one. I run my Supreme on a modern Ugly Stick Lite Pro, and it does work well, but could have better action. Thing will cast down to the arbor when spooled with 10# Trilene Big Game 

[Shellbelly]

considering such rods for DD bass reels tend to be on the short side.

True.  Anything under 6' is problematic for me.  My (surf) wade fishing rod is 8'7" BUT I need to be able to cast while in chest-deep water and waves.  My bay rigs are 6'6"-ish since conditions are much tamer. 

If I remember correctly, the Shakespeare reels I learned on were mounted on 6' Wonder rods, Roddys and the like.  Heavy things.

If you search those, you might find a magic reel seat in your ID range.  I'm sure there are adaptors that would trim out and wrap up nicely as well...if that's the look you're after. 

[Paul Roberts]

Lingwendil, yes these old DD reels do cast well, when brought back to snuff. I have been using a 1980's ML power Skyline graphite pistol-grip rod I like very much. It works just fine. But, pretty modern looking.

SB, I'll have to keep looking and playing around with components. Going with glass I'll probably stay short, plus I'm freshwater bass fishing mostly. Reading some of the old time bass fishing books (Lucas, Lincoln, Radke) it appears that blank rigidity and weight was a limiting factor. Pretty much as I had come to understand rod materials (even after our transition to graphite). Back then (1940's-50's) they were transitioning from steel to glass. Those old school authors talked about 3 and 4ft rods for power fishing in cover and "long" rods (6ft) for limber light tackle fishing. I don't think you could get a rod much longer that wasn't a club back then, even with cane. Hence, I'll be considering some graphite blanks too, and looking for vintage-esque components.

[ddselvig]

Nice job on that rod! I have found that most of the rods I have don't get optimal casting distance from my direct drive reels. My Marhoff and Akron do a passable job with the antique steel rods and heavy casting weights, but I would prefer to use lighter a casting weight. I've been toying with the thought of doing a build, but just don't have a clue about the choice of blank to get optimal results. Thanks for your input. It gives me food for thought.

[Paul Roberts]

Nice job on that rod! I have found that most of the rods I have don't get optimal casting distance from my direct drive reels. My Marhoff and Akron do a passable job with the antique steel rods and heavy casting weights, but I would prefer to use lighter a casting weight. I've been toying with the thought of doing a build, but just don't have a clue about the choice of blank to get optimal results. Thanks for your input. It gives me food for thought.

Yes, slow action rods from modern materials are hard to come by. Fast is all the rage. And so-called crankbait blanks too often have wimpy tips and stiff butts. Lighter or longer spinning, or even fly, blanks maybe the closest option. Some judicious cutting will be required.

[Swami805]

  Are you looking for something like these?
The one with the trigger has an ID about 3/4" and weighs about 2.6 ozs
The straight one 3/4" ID and weighs about 1.6oz