DAM Quick 1000 Bail Trip

[sandbar]

Trying to entertain myself with the power still out and listening to the hum of the generator.
I recently picked up a DQ1000 advertised with a bail issue. When I took it apart, there was no bail spring, pretty simple. Fred graciously gifted me the spring and I installed it. Works great except the bail trip mechanism isn't working. I compared it to a 1001 and it is missing a part called the "brake ring".
Could this be the issue?
"Brake ring" sounds like an anti-reverse or drag stack part.

[Wompus Cat]

If what you are saying is like the photo below then Yes.

[Midway Tommy]

I make my own 107 part out of the appropriate size clear vinyl tubing. Easy to get at the hardware store or home center. I usually make a half dozen or so at a time so I have a few extras laying around.

[foakes]

I don't know how many of the 1000/1001 that I have bought cheap because folks think it is a bad bail spring —- when in actuality it is only the rubber brake ring which disintegrates every 30 years, or so.  Even with a cleaning and a new bail spring —- they can't get it right.

These are unintuitive and unusual mechanisms (but brilliant in operation) —- so even reel techs who have not worked on them do not know how important the little missing ring was.

I also just go down to the RC hobbynshop or the medical supply store to get a foot of surgical silicone tubing, or fuel line. 

In actuality, the way it works is:

There is a bridge plate, a tension spring, and the silicone ring goes onto the external stop lever.

It does not impact the ring that Henry cleverly marked in green (that is a tension spring to keep downward pressure on the stop lever) —- instead, there is a trip ramp molded into the frame that impacts the brake ring when the bail is cocked open. 

Surgical tubing is your best bet.  Soft, flexible, and the original factory color.

Best, Fred

[JasonGotaProblem]

Fred is there a way to make these fellas a manual bail trip? To be clear NOT manual pickup (cut the bail wire) but where it flips when I reach up and flip it not when I crank the handle. Im just so.in the habit of flipping it manually, and this reel doesn't seem to allow that. I'm scared I'll break it one day.

It appears I've successfully waited til after OP's question has been answered before derailing, but feel free to tell me to pound sand.

[PacRat]

Jason,
Try just flipping the bail manually. Many of these are what I would call 'double action'...meaning you can do it either way. I'm away so I can't check that right now for the 1000. Fred will let you know for sure.

-Mike

[sandbar]

Thank you guys.
I figured that was the problem. The nomenclature for the part made me unsure if bail trip is it's function.
Next question is what inside diameter tubing fits. Is it 1/8" ?
-Steve

[foakes]

Fred is there a way to make these fellas a manual bail trip? To be clear NOT manual pickup (cut the bail wire) but where it flips when I reach up and flip it not when I crank the handle. Im just so.in the habit of flipping it manually, and this reel doesn't seem to allow that.

Yes, Jason —-

There is a way to close the bail manually without heavy modification (and when finesse fishing, I often do this).

Since this is a solid positive either open or closed bail with no slop —- it is not possible to close the bail manually.

However, you can game the system by just using your fingernail to release the bail. There is a "nail groove" at the end of the external "stop lever".

This is actually the bail pressure release for transporting or storing when not in use.  It will also prolong the life of the bail spring indefinitely.

Many times, I need to close the bail manually without transmitting any movement down the line to my bait.

Best, Fred

Very simple and useful

[foakes]

Next question is what inside diameter tubing fits. Is it 1/8" ?
-Steve

When you go to the medical supply or hobby shop —- just get the smallest size —- if your supply house has more than one small size available —- just get a foot of each.  Only a buck a foot.

A foot will provide you with 100 brake rings —- of which you will likely never use the other 99.

Or I can send you a few, N/C.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

I picked up my never used NIB 1001 for $5 for the exact reason Fred indicated above. Funny thing was they came with a spare ring and it was still in the package with the extra bail spring. Whoever had it had no idea what to do to fix the issue. The next issue was the spare ring was so old and brittle that it wouldn't slide over the tab. That's how I figured out to use vinyl tubing. I had some, tried it, and it worked great!

[sandbar]

Fred
I'm sure that I have some extra fuel line in the garage. I just have to find it. No hardware stores open yet here in Bartow because of the hurricane.
I'll post a picture when I get it fixed.
Thank You for everyone's input.
-Steve

[foakes]

The next issue was the spare ring was so old and brittle that it wouldn't slide over the tab. That's how I figured out to use vinyl tubing. I had some, tried it, and it worked great!

I had around 200 of these from the factory, Tom —-

Figured I was set for life.  They were in a small Manila parts envelope.

First one I tried immediately broke apart it was so brittle.

So I got the bright idea to soak them all in a jar of oil for 24 hours.  They still just broke apart like dry pasta.  Tossed the whole batch in the trash and went down to the medical supply store.  Same stuff.

The ring cannot be loose —- it must stretch over the stop lever nub —- and the tubing wall thickness cannot be too thick.

The tolerances on these need to be fairly exact.

I also use the tubing on some of the angle levers for a "softer snap back" on 220/221's —- and also on the lower part of the trip levers on Super 270's.

Best, Fred