Daiwa Procast PR10G/PR15

[WalleyeGuy]

A few questions from a beginner, hope this is the right sub-forum.

I have these two Daiwa Procast reels -- the PR10G & PR15 both from the early 90's. They are both in good shape but looking at the schematic I noticed the line guide washer is missing from one of the reels. It's part number 21 on the schematic. I'm wondering how critical this part is? I measured the other one and it's a strange size (6x3x.3 or.2)mm; I could probably track one down. But it doesn't appear to be a spacer and the line guide seems to function fine without it.

Aside from the size difference both reels have the same build and internal construction. The main difference is the -G model has two graphite sleeve bearings and a plastic spool, opposed to two ball bearings and a metal spool on the other reel. Is it worth replacing the bearings? I tried oiling the ball bearings and they spin freely but feel a tad stiff... they can only make a few revolutions before stopping. The graphite sleeve bearings are quite a bit cheaper and are more restrictive that the ball bearings even. The size is (5x9x3)mm. I've seen some inexpensive bearings in this size that are marketed for RC cars.

Finally what grease and oil does everyone recommend? I was going to get marine grease from the auto store, but then I worked on a Mitchells 410 that had, I think, general auto grease packed in it and was incredibly stiff and a terrible mess to clean up. But admittedly the grease in these Daiwa's was also like concrete and looked like the original service. I had to chip it out with pegwood. The only 'reel' grease and oil I can find locally is at walmart but it looks cheap and expensive for the small amount you get: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-Oil-and-Grease-Fishing-Kit/55524381

[Gfish]

Never understood those little washers inside the "line guide" either. You'ed think that as the "line guide pin" starts to wear down, and the assembly seems too loose, then you could add a washer(spacer) up in there. Could there be a cushioning aspect to that washer as "pin" moves along the worm?
If you want it close to original, I'd grind down a nylon washer and try it. Also, can you take the other washer from 2nd reel, put it in the no-washer space on the 1st reel and see if it functions better?

Marine grease if you fish in saltwater. Usually blue. Paint it on an cheap artist's brush.

Best before replacing the ball-bearings to take off the shield on at least one side and soak in something harsh such as carb. cleaner. Once dry and clean, then a drop of very light oil; I use TSI 321 from Smooth Drag, it's "synthetic bearing oil".

Others should be along with perhaps better advice.

[alantani]

it's just a shim.  you can use anything.  milk just plastic might work as long as it's not too thick.  a leather hole puncher should give you the proper size.  if there is too much play, the pawl might "jump the track" and damage the worm. 

[philaroman]

reels are too pretty, for bearings to be worn  
clean original Daiwa bearings w/strong solvent & re-lube
hardware stores carry SuperLube 
Wally sewing section has Singer oil -- good thin synthetic
should also have Penn kits: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Penn-Oil-and-Grease-Pack/32175217
check which store has it or ship-to-store free

[alantani]

somewhere i think that i have four of the procasters with a 7:1 gear ratio. they were, still are, great reels!

[Brewcrafter]

Wallyeguy - Firstly - NICE photo - really clear, always helps when a picture is worth 1000 words.
Grease - Use that search word on the forum and you will get overwhelmed with tons of good advice.  My $.02:  Order a quality grease online, and avoid a generic like the many "fishing grease".  If you see yourself doing a LOT of reels, then you might want to get multiple specialized lubes, but for myself (15 or so reels a year) I stick with ONE grease that is compatible for both drags and mechanisms (I use Cal's, but there are others such as Superlube that reliable folks swear by) and one oil (I go with TSI321, again there are others).  Yes, I am spending more, but in reality a tub lasts me a long time without having multiple products on the bench.  If I were like many of the other folks here that are doing more reels in a week than I do in a year, then multiple products would make sense. - john

[WalleyeGuy]

Thank for all the replies! So, I did try swapping the washers between the reels and it worked just the same. The tolerance is tight so it didn't seem to act as a spacer or affect the line guide in any way. The original one is metal but I tried cutting one out of plastic and that didn't work at all. I tried shaping a metal washer I had but I wasn't able to grind it down properly.
Anyway I have been thinking about its purpose and came to the conclusion that it is probably there to absorb the slight torsion from the line pin as it changes direction, thereby preventing the nut from backing off. I think I'm fine leaving it off for the time being and will just keep an eye on it when using in it under a load.

I'll try cleaning the bearings again. When I was cleaning the reels the first time I just removed them so they didn't get water or cleaner inside. Then I just re-oiled them before reinstalling. I didn't try to take the shield off because it was metal and assumed it was crimped on. I'm not sure I can get the metal shield off without messing it up. The sleeve bearing doesn't turn at all so I think anything, even a cheap RC bearing would be an improvement there.

[Swami805]

You can pop the shields off with a fish hook, they don't need to go back in, you can leave the bearings open. Once's you clean them with the solvent of your choice they should be ok. Add a light oil and see how they work

[WalleyeGuy]

Well I tried a hook and a micro screwdriver but couldn't manage to get the shields off the bearings. So I soaked them in acetone for about an hour with the shields on, swished them around a bit and blotted them on a towel. The acetone turned from clear to cloudy in that time. After they dried I oiled them and now they are running smoother than they were, not perfect but better.

[Brewcrafter]

A good magnifier helps.  On those bearings where the shield is held on by a tiny wire snap ring, you can see (very hard) usually one end of the ring has a bevel to it where you can catch it with a fine point (mine is a 4/0 hook) and pop the end of the wire and then everything comes apart. This wire is baby hair fine usually.
There are also bearings where the shield is pressed on.  Only way on those is to destroy the shield to remove them with  a sharp pointed object. - john

[philaroman]

Well I tried a hook and a micro screwdriver but couldn't manage to get the shields off the bearings. So I soaked them in acetone for about an hour with the shields on, swished them around a bit and blotted them on a towel. The acetone turned from clear to cloudy in that time. After they dried I oiled them and now they are running smoother than they were, not perfect but better.

as solvents go, acetone is not that aggressive & 1 hr. is not that long
heard MEK for a DAY worked for cleaning spool bearings shields-on,
but never got to try, before MEK disappeared off the shelves 

try LOOONG soak in something nasty w/ more than mere swishing
if not ultrasonic vibration, at least aggressive shaking

[Gfish]

This. Like Brewcrafter says and you did; pictures.