trinidad 30

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 05:27:21 PM

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Bryan Young

I have been told by the guys that I'm servicing their reels that when the fish takes a hard and long run, the dartanium drags get sticky then, POP, line snaps. With a little experimenting, I have found that the greased slick surface starts to act like a vaccum between the dartanium drags and the metal washers and the drag gets tighter. After cleaning the dartanium, they did have that issue any longer but the washers wore down faster. I highly recommend changing those washers to the dartanium II or carbontex with Cal's grease.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Simon Anderson

Bryan, I did change them, bar the very lowest washer as the washers I found (T30) the smallest was not the same size and never covered the ratchet very well.
I then went ahead and fitted the others (carbontex) with cals grease smeared on, so I figure it will be ohk.
Throwing for fish tomorrow, to put it to the test.

My feedback to follow.
Thanks to all.
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after.

erikpowell

Hi Everyone,
In my quest for more Trinidad info and a .pdf of an actual TN users manual, I came across this interesting release from Shimano.
Not sure how old it is, but applies to models prior to 2005.

I haven't seen any mention of a Trinidad/Torium Drag Upgrade on the boards so I thought I'd share.
It's got some good assembly photos too

Enjoy,
Erik

http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/customer_service0/reel_maintenance_instructions.download.-mainParsys-000112-downloadFile.html/TN%20and%20TOR%20Upgrade%20Tutorial_2.pdf

And, if anyone out there can post a link to where I can find a Trinidad TN30 and/or TN50 Owners Manual ...I'd be Grateful  ;)

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Bryan Young

I wonder what the differences are.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

erikpowell

Heh heh, yeah I know..... They forgot to change to dartanium to Carbontex !   ;D

shearb

#35
I had a few problems upgrading my TOR30 and TOR50 with clicking pawls -- just in case anyone has these problems here they are:

click gear (tgt315) for TOR30 was installed backwards making an awfule clicking noise and would 'slip' when clicker was engaged.
anti-reverse pawl keeper (tgt455)  for TOR50 was installed backwards/upside down making my drive gear touch the top of pawl keeper, when drag was enabled on my reel it wouldn't reel without an awful sound and would hardly reel at all.

all fixed thanks to alan! I feel pretty stupid admitting to my errors and not catching it! So good luck if you encounter any of these problems!!

reels work good with clicking now!

gdown

Does anyone know how much more drag I could get if I changed out the drag spring washer 9L with the thicker 9H in addition to putting a Penn ht-100 drag washer under the main gear?

alantani

putting a #6-113h drag under the main gear should do the trick!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

gdown

Thanks for the quick reply Alan, it seems like I lost some drag when I did the carbontex washer upgrade...should've listen to your advice in the post and saved myself time. :-[

Blackfishdoug

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trinidad 30
« on: December 07, 2008, 09:27:21 AM »
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this arrived in the mail last month.



and with it came a note.



i called the owner and we spoke for quite a while.  i carefully explained to him what i thought the cause was, what his options were and where i thought this reel would now fit in his arsenal.  what we finally settled on were carbontex drags, an anti-reverse roller bearing, tube and dog, and an oversized handle grip.



first, go to the shimano website for the schematic.

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/tn_30_v1_m56577569830570264.pdf

to service the spool bearings, remove the left side plate screws (key #767).



remove the left side plate assembly (key #307).



remove the spool (key #498).



i see plenty of corroded rod clamps (key #351, 352, 353, and 354). let's grease the bolts so we don't have to worry about this anymore.









now for the right spool bearing. remove the four brake shaft holder screws (key #312), the brake shaft holder (key #313) and the four brake collars (key #257).  this will make it easier to remove the right spool bearing.  for a spool this big, the brakes are of limited benefit.  they will not be re-installed.



the right spool bearing (no key #) is 6x12x4mm and is rusted.  it's a common problem.  to remove the bearing, we need to remove the cross pin (no key #).  squeeze the cross pin halfway with a pair of vise grips that have a slot cut it in.





now we're going to use the drill press to push the pin out the rest of the way.  i've tried to punch them out freehand.  it's not easy.







install the new bearing and cross pin.





center the cross pin with the vise grips.



the left side plate bearing (key #484) is 4x11x4mm.  remove the bearing retainer (key #318).



loosen the three "br" set plate screws (key #328) that surround the bearing.



pull the bearing out with your bearing pulling tool.



this bearing is fine, so let's clean it out with carb cleaner and compressed air, lube it with corrosion x and re-install it.



torque down the "br" set plate screws (key #328).



reinstall the bearing retainer (key #318).



put a very tiny bead of grease in the screw holes, or better yet, on the screws themselves.



install the spool (key #498).



install the side plate assembly (key #340) and add a thin film of grease around the screw hole.



torque down the left side plate screws (key #767)



now watch it spin!!!!!!!!!!!!!



now for the right side.  first, remove the handle nut plate screw (key #128).



remove the handle nut and plate (key #'s 261 and 262).



remove the handle (key #495) and drive shaft shield (key #264).





remove the star drag (key #265).



remove the click pin (key #295) and click spring (key #296).





remove the star drag washer (key #266), the drag spring washer 9L (key #267), the drag spring washer 9H (key #268), the bearing thrust washer (key #269), and the bearing seal (key #270).



remove the four right side plate screw A's (key #766).



remove the two right side plate screw C's (key #765).



remove the two right side plate screw D's (key #764).



remove the right side plate (key #932).  note that the right side plate (key #932), the drive shaft bearing (key #486), the roller clutch bearing (key #493), the roller clutch inner tube (key #494) and the line clip (key #280) are removed as a unit.





now we're going to remove the drag stack.  this is important.  do not pull on the main gear (key 292) with the drag washers still in place.  invariably, the anti-reverse ratchet (key #294) is pulled up as well.  this damages the anti-reverse pawl (key #303).

so, let's carefully remove each washer, one at a time.







you can see where it's starting to stick.



lift up the main gear (key #292), taking care to separate the main gear from drag washer A (key #418).



remove drag washer A (key #418).  note that this washer was sticky as well.



remove the screws (key #305) and pawl keeper (key #306).





carefully remove the anti-reverse ratchet (key #294) and the anti-reverse pawl (key #303) as a unit.



let's take a look at the old pawl compared to a new one.  note the dent and the increased spread of the springs.  this is the reason that the pawl fails.





re-install the pawl (key #303) and ratched gear (key #294) as a unit.  lube the pawl with corrosion x first.



re-install the pawl keeper (#306) and screws (key #305).



now we're almost ready to grease and install the new carbontex drag washers.



the carbontex washer that goes underneath the main gear is 1.14 mm thick.



this is a penn ht-100 drag washer from a 4/0 senator, part #6-113h.  it is a little thicker and the inside diameter is just a hair larger.



i had noted that the drag pressure in a few trinidad's maxed out at 15#'s of drag using the thinner carbontex drag washer under the gear.  by substituting the thicker penn ht-100 #6-113h, i was able to get 20#'s or better.  so that's what i do now.  it's no big deal for me, but might prove an inconvenience for you.  this is not a consistent problem, so go with the stock carbontex drag washers first, check the drags, and then consider changing the washer under the gear if there is an issue.

ok, now were ready!  slap on a coat of cal's drag grease and install the washers.  the excess will squeeze out the sides.



install the drive gear (key #292).



install the carbontex drag washers and metal washers in the order shown above.  apply a generous coat of cal's drag grease to each carbontex drag washer.



install a new roller clutch inner tube (key #494).  a light coat of grease from your fingers is sufficient.



now we will need to press out the old roller clutch bearing (key #493).  sometimes it will press out easily by hand.  if not, a pair of sockets, 10mm and 22mm will be very helpful.  remove the drive shaft bearing (key # 486) first.



place the 22mm socked under the side plate for support. use the 10mm socked to press out the roller clutch bearing.



thumb pressure should be enough to press in the new clutch bearing.



a light coat of corrosion x is probably the best compromise for lubricating the clutch bearing.  it's difficult because a dry roller bearing will hold better, but rusts too easily.  a heavily greased roller bearing will definitely not rust, but it may also not hold.  accurate uses corrosion x.  i think this gives you the best results as well.



install the right side plate (key #932).



install the right side plate screws (key #'s 764, 765 and 766).



pack the drive shaft bearing (key #486) with grease and install it.



install the bearing seal (key #270), the bearing thrust washer (key #269),  the drag spring washer 9H (key #268), the drag spring washer 9L (key #267), and star drag washer (key #266).



install the click spring (key #296) and click pin (key #295).



to get the star (key #265) back on, there are two techniques.  one is to use a toothpick. simply push the click pin (key #295) down, shove a toothpick into the hole in the drive shaft (key #930), and turn the star (key #265) down over the drive shaft.



what i do is push the click pin (key #295) down with a small blade.



now slide the drag star washer (key #266) over the click pin (key #295) so that it stays put.  a small bead of grease is helpful here.
This section was great I took apart my Trindad 12 for the love of me I could not figure out how to get the star drag over the click pin. I'm glad I checked this out I needed a quick fix & re lube for my next trip.
If it eats Greencrabs it's a Blackfish. If it hates Blackfisherman it's the NMFS

surfboy

Hi,

Just serviced my Trini 14 and part of the service was to take out the stock drag washers and install Carbontex......lost a big fish on drag failure. I have seen a few tutorials on reel service and some advise rubbing the Cal's into the washers and leaving a thin film, enough for a fingerprint.......some tutorials slop on the Cal's and say let the stack pressure, squash out the surplus............I used a thin film........on the back of the Carbontex packet from Smooooth Drag......they say washers can be used dry or lightly greased......Just worried I should put more grease on......one what side must one err.....too much or too little?

alantani

the amount you have is fine.  what happened with the drag?
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

surfboy

The reel was service by a pro and dartanium drag stack greased with Cal's. I took a ten day trip and found the drag so slippery and loose. On a strike, the drag was so slippery it created a birds nest. I then started tighten up almost to the end to get the drag set for fishing. A big fish hit and although the drag ran for 10 meters.....it seized up and the hook pulled.........after installing the Carbontex with light Cal's smear......the drag seems really smooth and I can feel it tighten click for click......so the drag range is bigger and each click different from the other. With the dartanium it was a little bit like All the way tight........or slippery and soft and no settings in between.

I greased my roller bearing...........see you guys recommend Reelx or corrosionx......will open up tomorrow and clean the grease out of roller and rather light oil instead of the grease. Used a thin layer of thickish oil instead of grease on anti reverse sprocket......did not want the pawl delayed....hope that should be fine.


Robert Janssen


surfboy

thanks rob.....seems I'm headed in the right direction.