Jigmaster 505hs - advanced maintenance

[herrscher]

Over the years, I've upgraded my Penn reels with external and internal parts.  Replacing the post frames with a machined  aluminum frame is the first and best upgrade. Beyond that some were justified, with the reasoning of "what ifs".  Others were just to make them stand out.

While doing maintenance on my reels, I took a unmodified back-up 505hs and played with it for a couple of hours.   I wanted to smooth out some of the rough edges and increase its performance....without spending much if any. 

The tools I used were; 6" files, safe flat, oval and round needle point. All fine cut.  400 & 600 sandpaper, waterproof backing.  Oil.  Mirlon abrasive x-fine grit polishing sheet.  A Starrett square proved helpful in checking the parts.  Last, a Dremel makes some polishing easier.

I pulled the side and this is what I started with. 



First disassemble and clean the parts.



Start with the flat file then move to 400 and 600 grit paper while carefully flattening the parts.  You'll notice the hollows from the stamping process on the bridge, eccentric, yoke and the drag washers. On the eccentric jack you can use a small ball peen hammer to raise the hollow area up.



On the metal washers I just smoothed down the edges to allow more contact while increasing spring compression.  The yoke was flattened and sanded smooth.  The dog was flattened at 600 grit, top and bottom.  The edges were chamfered.  Do not try to smooth out the sides of the dog.  You'll either change the angles or shorten the dog, either is a bad idea.

The bridge was flattened out, sanded to 600 grit. Use a safe file around the dog spring and dog posts to protect them.  The gear sleeve post is polished with Mirlon. Check the gear sleeve post for squareness to the bridge. 




The gear sleeve needs more attention.  Flatten the base, remove the machining marks on the flats and smooth it down to 600 grit.  On top of the cut gear notches, use your safe file to remove the machining marks and then chamfer all the edges.  Be sure to leave the gear notches and angles intact.  Polish the interior of the sleeve with the Mirlon.

The spur gear base is flattened and polished out.  The interior drag washer cup is polished by using a Dremel felt pad and polishing compound. 



After the spur gear, sleeve and bridge were finished up, check them for interference and to make sure they are square and parallel to each other.

Use a needle file enlarge the oil holes a touch and smooth out the remainder with Mirlon.

All contact edges on the bridge, jack and yoke were chamfered.  The pinion gear yoke cut was chamfered with an oval file.

The eccentric just needed the machining marks removed from the top flat. 

After a couple of hours this is the result. 






Putting the parts back together is straight forward.  I replaced the nylon gear sleeve spacer with a HT100 drag washer (from a 850SS).  On the clicker side plate, I glued down a couple of gold plated ⅜" N52 neodymium disk magnets.  At 1/16" thick, they'll fit nicely under the clicker ring out to the spool edge. 

Just for eye candy I finished up with some engine turning. 


The results are subjective, it is much smoother overall. Shifting in and out of free-spool is positive.  Casting distance increased.  Line speed increased which caused me to mag the reel.  With the drag at max, it pulls 16 -18 pounds. 

All this for about $2.00. The magnets are about fifty cents a piece and the drag washer a dollar.

I think it's worth the time and effort. 

Erik

[Bryan Young]

Wow, Erik, 1st post and it is AWESOME.  Thank you for sharing your performance tuning.

[alantani]

beautiful work!!!!!!

[Bruddah Bill]

Thank you for that INSPIRATIONAL post!

[Ron Jones]

No matter how advanced machines get, we will never beat hand fitting and polishing. That is very nice work. I had the advantage of an old A&P professor putting his hand over mine and teaching me the trade. With drag washers, full contact and parallel faces are vital.

Again, really nice work.
Ron

[saltydog]

Very nice work.

[Keta]

Nice work.
Over size dogs can be cut if you want to "polish" them to size.

[Cone]

   vey nice first posr excellent work!

[Bill B]

Love the look of the engine turning...great precision and detail work.

[LTM]

Erick,

Excellent hand tooling and craftsmanship by you. You and Sal and the other "master tinkers" need to talk (while I listen) about my favorite subject of "what if". Like that engine turning.

Leo

[El Pescador]

Erik!
What a beautiful job!  You really know what you are doing!

I'm not a reel tool nut, but this site is slowly dragging me in that direction, question:  What is a safe flat file??
Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks.

Wayne

[Ron Jones]

A safe file has a side that does not have teeth. This allows you to file with the flat flush up against a protrusion such as the post on the bridge.

Ron

[Alto Mare]

Beautiful job! wow and your first post, welcome...I hope you stick around.
I'm already visualizing my tank with that finish on ss, all we need is a ss bridge plate and ss jack, we already have everything else.
There is lots of talent out there, very nice.
Thanks for sharing it with us.
Sal

[LTM]

Glad you saw and responded to this Sal   Wait till Lee and the others chime-in.

Leo

[redsetta]

Great work Erik - and a cracker first post.
The 'eye candy' is a nice touch
Was that done with a dowel and drill press?
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Justin