alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Accurate Boss Fury: Service Tutorial and first look
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Author Topic: Accurate Boss Fury: Service Tutorial and first look  (Read 43924 times)
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johndtuttle
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« on: January 30, 2013, 01:36:08 PM »

Hey Guys,

This new offering from Accurate is a new departure for them having just a single drag and mechanical dogs rather than an AR bearing and thought some photos of the internals via a service tutorial would be a good way to take a detailed look at this new reel.

Frankly, I was amazed at how easy they are to work on and Accurate has nice tutorials on their site as well for older models that I used as a preview before tearing into this one. The schematics are not yet out for the Fury but their service site can be found here and they should be available very shortly:

http://www.accuratefishing.com/support/dpx2_support.php

Ok, here is the FX-500N:



Spool is only a thumbs width wide:



Massively oversize gears for cranking power:



But it's just a little guy! Shown next to a Daiwa 30T for comparison:



But enough of the superficial beauty contest Grin let's look inside.

It has four body screws (Torx #6, a 7 will work but press hard):



Remove the drag preset knob by simply unscrewing it:



And the right side plate comes off all as one unit giving us 3 easy pieces to work on:



The left side plate/frame could not be easier to work on. It has a very familiar arrangement for the clicker, an e-clip for the knob and 2 screws for the C-spring. I might have preferred a cast control but hey, this reel is mechanically dogged, you can troll with it!  Grin. No need to remove them for this first look or "pre-fishing" service. I just added some grease to a few nooks and crannies to complete the protection of the reel. Accurate uses Cal's as their general protection grease and I will as well as there is no need to completely strip out all of their work greasing the reel from the get go.



The reel foot has red loctite in the screws. Accurate probably considers this "idiot proof" but we regularly maintain our reels so we will replace that with grease. This is also your access for removing the rod clamp studs if you choose as it is not necessary on this class of reel if you use quality rods with good reel seats. If you let the reel get nice and warm in the sun the red goo isn't too bad to remove and the screws come out no worries.





I put plenty on the mating surfaces then like to see it squirt out the holes to be sure all surfaces are protected.





The spool clicker comes off with 4 easy screws:



I pulled it off out of curiosity and put some grease underneath to eliminate any future trouble as it was dry there.

Then the spool shaft slips out with the left side spool bearing. Keep all those washers in order if you take them off:



I will be using the reel for Vertical Jigging and so did not pull the shields to improve free spool. I prefer star drags for live bait fishing with this class of reel.

In this image (below) the spool happens to be resting in the frame but it shows the right side plate bearing. It is sealed (rather the shielded) and I prefer them that way and just added a few drops of corrosion-x from the outside to eventually seep in. These seals could be easily pulled and the bearing packed with grease or lubed with speed oil if that is your preference.



That leaves us the drag cover to remove with 4 easy screws:



With the drag plate found below:



And the Carbon Fiber Drag:



It had plenty of Cal's on the main surface but I added some on the rim and "ears" to prevent salt intrusion that could lead to a sticky drag. The back side was dry and again, I added some for protection...But don't overdo it or it will stick to the drag plate and ruin your free-spool. Grease it up then wipe off the excess:



The back of the drag plate has an e-clip that retains the pinion gear (and allows it to be changed for different gear ratios. I did not pull it and the bearing inside can be fished out for service without removing the pinion. I couldn't bring myself to possibly scratch that beautiful drag plate without good cause and let it be  Grin.



In this image (below) we are all lubed up on mating surfaces etc and ready to reassemble. Note where the spool shaft passes through the spool spring and rt. side spool bearing. Again, you can easily lift out this bearing and pull the shields if you want uber free-spool for live baiting. There is no interior space for a bearing sleeve as the shaft is tight inside the spool. A squirt of corrosion-x and it was good to go for my purposes. That's it for the spool:



Now we can take a look at the goodies on the rt. side plate. We previously removed the drag preset knob to separate the spool from the rt. side plate. We now can lift out the cam to service the drag lever:



Finding the lever held in place by a spring clip (sorry about the fuzzy image). Be careful not to lose the clicker button under the lever. It lays loose inside it's housing and will drop out:



And we end up with the entire assembly:



The hexagonal nut appearing thingee does not unscrew! It is the post that the cam is fitted to fix it in one place. When replacing the assembly be sure that the lever is in free spool, then, there are 2 "slots" on the cam track that need to be positioned to hold it steady on the lever (not shown) then the idea is that the cam needs to be in the lowest drag setting when replaced on the tension cam track. This is not as "deep" as possible but rather as "shallow" as possible so that when the lever is advanced to full it will go deeper and deeper and cause the drag plate to do it's work. If your lever does not freely move when the preset knob is replaced don't force it! You need to re-position the cam as you have not put it together properly.

A squirt of Corrosion-X on either side of the teflon washer and reassemble:



Let's take off the handle and take a look see:



This sucker goes on tight. Take your time and don't beat it up:



Underneath is a white teflon washer that gets corrosion-X:



And then the Drive gear just drops right out with the handle shaft and this large bushing:



The O-ring can be fished out with a dental pick as needed to remove the bushing but at this time just a little corrosion-x under that massive bushing is all that is required.

Below is the simple 2 dog system of the fury with those two plates with their screws holding the strike and free spool buttons in place (not removed):



The dogs are simply resting on their studs so be careful as they can lift off stuck to the gear and get lost. Putting the gear back in was no trouble and with a little wiggling it seated easily and the dogs work just fine. The gear when replaced and attached to the handle keeps them in place so be careful when ever the handle is removed. The drive gear is "keyed" to the Gear Shaft so be sure it is seated properly before tightening down on the handle (it is not seated properly in the photo below):



And there we have it. After opening up the reel a few times I was very surprised how easy it is to work on and how strong and simple it all appears. It's a small single lever drag reel so we can't expect insane drag numbers. I got around 10lbs at strike and 20+lbs of drag at full, more than enough for fishing even 60lb braid for hard pulling fish. Stock, it had about 10 seconds of free spool which is certainly adequate for live bait fishing. That can be improved significantly by pulling the shields on the spool bearings and lubing them with your favorite speed lube.

It certainly is a very strong reel and at $289 with Made in USA all machined parts, mechanical dogs and 4:1 gears it has impressive pulling power and should be a nearly indestructible little tank.


best regards




**Update**

Hey there Boyos,

Been playing with my Boss Fury and in recent threads there has been some talk about supplementing it's simple 2-dog system with an antireverse bearing like other Accurate models. Accurate kind of pioneered the use of ARB's only in their reels but ran into some complaints from those that ran into trouble using them as they all can fail eventually. Unfortunately Accurate's reels had no backup dogs to prevent them from going "knuckle buster" if they did fail and this caused some, shall we say, negative feedback. After many years of requests Accurate now produces either a simple dogged and single lever drag reel like the Boss Fury or a "synced" triple dog and dual drag reel like the Dawg Pound series.

Accurate will press in an AR Bearing in the DP series by request but has no plans to offer that option in the Boss Fury.

So we will just have to do it ourselves Cheesy.

Alan did a previous post that serves as our inspiration:

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=5497.0

Here is the simple Teflon Bushing that Accurate shims their Drive Shaft in the Boss Fury:



Took some quick measurements:



Turns out Accurate is using essentially the same Side Plate and Drive Shaft as their other Boss Series reels with the same tolerances so all we have to do is press in the same or similar size parts.

Hmm, this is a likely candidate a 14 x 20 x 26mm AR bearing from Boca. It can be found here:

http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/One-Way-Bearings/485/14x20x26-HFL1426



It's about ~1MM longer than the Teflon Bushing but should work just fine.

Before we press it in we want to double check it gets put in proper orientation. We want the direction the handle turns to be identical to the arrow (when looking at the handle we reel forward *clockwise*, so the bearing should have the same orientation). Here it appears *counter clockwise* because we are looking at the opposite or gear side (the back of the clock rather than the front),



Then we need a vise or press to place it. You cannot use a hammer or you will risk damaging either the reel or the bearing. I wasn't prepared to drop the money for a big vise so created my own bearing press. Cost about $4.



What you do is place one of the washers with it's nut underneath to support the Side Plate:



Then simply tighten down the other side to slowly press the bearing into position:



When it is flush:



You have this much space on the other side:



I'll reserve that space for one of Accurate's bushings that is on the way. In the photo above you see some Corrosion-X I sprayed inside before inserting the Drive Shaft. Accurate recommends it for lube and protection inside this type of barrel clutch.

The top then looks like this:



Ready to put the handle back on:



And there we have it: An Instant Anti-reverse Boss Fury for your fishing pleasure with double stainless dog back up. Should be an extremely reliable system and provide the ideal "feel" for vertical jigging or other artificial lure fishing:



Total cost is about $30-35 depending on what bearing you choose to add and what bushings you need to get from Accurate. Hope to see others doing the same soon Smiley.

best regards
 











































« Last Edit: July 16, 2017, 12:23:57 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
wallacewt
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« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2013, 02:58:28 PM »

oh good stuff john,magic pics.
dogs & ratchet look tough.
dont like the black knob(just me)
they will have to stop making these good reels,i want but dont need.
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2013, 03:13:17 PM »

Very Nice John.  I wonder if that nylon bushing could be replaced by an ARB.  doesn't seem to be much material to grab on to though.

Once thing I wish those accurates would have is a greater drag washer.  This will allow slightly more drag surface area, and therefore, slightly more drag, without increasing the drage pressure plate pressure.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
johndtuttle
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« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2013, 03:20:41 PM »

Very Nice John.  I wonder if that nylon bushing could be replaced by an ARB.  doesn't seem to be much material to grab on to though.

Once thing I wish those accurates would have is a greater drag washer.  This will allow slightly more drag surface area, and therefore, slightly more drag, without increasing the drage pressure plate pressure.

I've been meaning to ask Accurate about the drag washer and if it could be increased in surface area as there is some potential for use in the center. Others have posted that they had reels with the larger washer and it made no difference...I would think if the drag surfaces are flat (ie blue printed) it would make a difference.

I'll see what Accurate has to say about it.

Re: AR Bearing. Alan is sending me the 14 x 20 x 26mm one he almost used in the "Double AR" post. That big bushing is  14 x 20 x 24 should it should press in no problem (fingers crossed  Grin).

best
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limitdown
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« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2013, 03:30:54 AM »

Do you guys have the dimensions of the pinion bearing and left spool bearing for the FX-600? Thanks in advance.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2013, 07:22:11 AM by limitdown » Logged
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« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2013, 11:42:36 AM »

Thanks for sharing. A nice Reel maybe also good for Norway.
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gone2fish
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« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2013, 07:47:14 PM »

Very Nice John.  I wonder if that nylon bushing could be replaced by an ARB.  doesn't seem to be much material to grab on to though.

Once thing I wish those accurates would have is a greater drag washer.  This will allow slightly more drag surface area, and therefore, slightly more drag, without increasing the drage pressure plate pressure.

I've been meaning to ask Accurate about the drag washer and if it could be increased in surface area as there is some potential for use in the center. Others have posted that they had reels with the larger washer and it made no difference...I would think if the drag surfaces are flat (ie blue printed) it would make a difference.

I'll see what Accurate has to say about it.

Re: AR Bearing. Alan is sending me the 14 x 20 x 26mm one he almost used in the "Double AR" post. That big bushing is  14 x 20 x 24 should it should press in no problem (fingers crossed  Grin).

best

John

So how do you like the reel so far? and does the drag increase with using a larger surface contact washer?
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2013, 09:57:58 PM »

Just did a pre-use service and frankly speaking, they could have refine it a little more. That Teflon crank shaft bushing compresses and makes te reel in experience feel wobbly. Additionally, there is a big gap of nothing right under the handle arm Teflon washer. I can see salt water collect under there. I filled it with mating grease to prevent this. I really think the reel would be much better if they used bearings or a taller crank shaft bushing that went all the way to the arm.   I added a spool bearing sleeve 1/4 in. OD brass tubing, 1.11 in long. Reel free spools like a dream.  It's a nice reel, but honestly, I would not buy one until I can figure out how to remove that wobbly feeling while cranking.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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« Reply #8 on: August 15, 2013, 12:07:54 PM »

John is selling this reel for $275 shipped. 

http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/showthread.php/509669-Boss-Fury-500N-New-never-fished-with-instant-AR

May want to ping him if you are interested.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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« Reply #9 on: October 21, 2013, 01:56:38 AM »

 Does  anybody used this reel for jigging
 meaning vertical  fast or  free style  jigging
 one lift, one turn  jigging ??

 How  does it compare  with the Torsa 16n ?
 
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #10 on: May 19, 2014, 01:34:57 PM »

Does  anybody used this reel for jigging
 meaning vertical  fast or  free style  jigging
 one lift, one turn  jigging ??

 How  does it compare  with the Torsa 16n ?
 

Just discovered this old post and will try and answer for the record.

The Boss Fury is a terrific low cost jigging reel either with the plain dogged version or after adding an instant AR bearing. Very lightweight and plenty of drag for most fish that can be handled with it's capacity.

The Torsa 16N however is a different class of reel that uses massive main gears to increase the cranking power and produces more drag. It should be better, it costs more than twice as much (~$289 vs $699).

best
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« Reply #11 on: February 05, 2016, 08:46:26 PM »

Nice looking reel. Quite similar to the Avets but looks like a more premium build. I like the dog system in these. Gears good solid. Simple design and unique size.
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